• HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE System 1
  • HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE System 2
  • HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE System 3
  • HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE System 4
  • HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE System 5
HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE

HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE is one of the most popular series  in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Full Polished Porcelain Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 800 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1152 m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 500 Ctns/20’Fcl, 960 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE

HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE

HIGH GLOSSY FULL POLISHED GLAZED PORCELAIN TILE ITALY STONE IMAGE

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1152  m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

Q:What are the different types of tile and how much of them does it take to cover 1 square foot nad what‘s the cost of them
there are stone tiles (like slate and travertine), there are glass, and there are ceramic ,,, it can very how much a 12*12 tile cost becasue if the material it's made out of you can get ceramic tiles for less than $1 but the more desired tiles like say marble can cost $15 a tile .. look in your local flooring store or at Home Depot or Lowes
Q:I have tiles around all of my kitchen and would like to cover them. Can I skim plaster over them because it would take weeks to remove them? Is there any other way round avoiding removing them? Any ideas welcome. They are driving me up the wall, literally! HELP.
Weeks? An hour should be enough to remove a good portion of them as long as you don't want to save them. Take a hammer and smash the tiles. It does work.
Q:I have asbestos tiles in my basement (of a home I recently purchased). I sent them off to a lab for testing. The lab results came back 4% asbestos. I definitely want to remove the tiles. The majority of the tiles are in good shape. Some of the corners on a few of them are cracking. Right now I am considering the DIY vs. hiring the pros for removalI have been given conflicting advise thus far. Some say do it yourself, there is a very low percentage of asbestos in your tiles -- 4%. Others say Don‘t risk it, pay for the peace of mind. Here are my questions: Is 4% a low percentage for asbestos tiles? Is this low enough to be trivial or of lessor concern when taking on DIY removal? The pros quoted me $1300 for removal and an additional $275 for an air quality test/certification. Is this a fair price for about 500 square feet of tiles? Is air quality testing really necessary given the low percentage of asbestos in my tiles? Or, are they just making money off the fear and hysteria around asbestos?
Tile Removal Cost
Q:i have vinyl tile in my dinning room(high traffic) its new but its not brillant ,and i saw a mantenance guy last night in wallmart using a buffer machine to pollish the tile..my question what kind of pad the used?they use any quimical with this pad?..how often this treatment its needed?
You need to 1st find out what kind of tile you have. Some tile is made with a flat sheen. If your's isnt, wax and buff. You can rent machines pretty cheap and usually a few times a year will do it. Good Luck :)
Q:what causes lippage on a granite floor? i had someone install granite tiles in my bedroom and the lippage isn‘t too bad i must say but 2 or 3 tiles do have A LOT of lippage...was wondering why that would be? thanks so much in advance!
Hey BigBadShawn, I worked for years in flooring at The Home Depot and I got to see this question come up quite a bit from my customers. Natural stone tiles like granite can be tricky to keep, and lippage can come from various sources. Depending on what is underneath it as well as how the tiles are installed will determine what is the exact cause of the lippage. Usually I've seen with older houses with wood subfloors that prep work wasn't addressed so that over time as the floor joists/subfloor expands, contracts, and settles tiles of any substrate can pop up or create small lippages. The professional way to installed your floor was (hopefully) by the builder using a tile backerboard and/or securing the subfloor securely before laying down the tiles. Also, if the tiles have very thin to no grout lines, it is possible that the events of the floor joists settling makes little room for the tiles to go anywhere but up. With a high-quality flexible mortar, that shouldn't of been an issue. If you noticed a progression over time with your tiles, I'd say you most likely have a wood subfloor on your hands. If it was concrete, it could be a matter of improper installation, moisture, or unevenness of the surface itself that gave it the lippage you see now. Hope this helps you out, aboveaveragejoe
Q:I recently put in a wood stove. It was professionally installed and certified to meet fire regulations. I don‘t know anything really about the install just that it doesn‘t require any r value underneath it. It just requires a pad for embers. There was a long waiting list to get it installed but an opening came up and we got it installed sooner than we planned. So we didn‘t get the tiling done. Currently it is sitting on a base made with 2x6s spaced 6 apart covered with 3/4 plywood and a sheet of durock cement board attached with durock screws and all seems taped with durock tape and covered with durock cement plaster. I want to finish it with tile. However, the stove is too heavy for us to lift. Its a pedestal woodstove so would it look okay tile up to the pedestal? If so how much space should I leave against the pedestal? What should I put in the gap? High-heat caulking? I‘m very new to this so any advice is welcomed. Thanks!
You will be better off if you remove the stove and tile. See if they installers can come back out and set it aside , be sure to make where the feet set first, measure and write down so that the feet doesn't sit on a joint . It will make to job make better,
Q:I accidentally tiled over an outlet cover. What can I do to fix this issue with out having to remove all the tile?
I'm guessing you probably put backer board down and forgot to cut the receptacle hole. If you can figure out which tile it's behind you can strike the tile in the center hard enough to break it and then use a hammer and chisel to chisel out the pieces. The backer board will chisel out easily. If you don't know the exact location you may have to remove more than one. That's OK because the mortar is probably still a little soft.The other option would be to use a 4 grinder and cutting wheel to cut the tile and backer board out with. If all that works out then you'll probably need to replace the outlet with a GFCI outlet if it's near a water source. Good luck
Q:we have an outside toilet which has been removed and we are wanting to change the room in to a washing room. it is a brick out building and the brick has been painted, how easy is it to tile over this and how could it be done?
' sure it can be done but the plaster over paint of course could fall off after the paint begins to peel. Its best to scrape off as much of the paint as possible first before you plaster. You might use a paint remover to help make things easier. Plaster will stick best to wet bricks not dry bricks. then butter the tiles on the back and stick them on, however, its not going to be easy, I am afraid, unless the bricks are absolutely straight. good luck on this. You have your work cut out for you.
Q:i‘m planning to change the tiles in my tub area. whats the right way of doing this? should i change the drywall to cement backerboard? and how do i fix the joint between the new cement backerboard and the existing wall and ceiling which is textured? pls help!
in case you're applying great 1ft sq. tiles, and your chum did a foul interest on the the mosaic tiles i does not propose doing it. the load of the tiles could loosen the the smaller tiles inflicting the bigger tiles to fall. this may be risky in a tub or bath section. The tiles could shatter leaving sharp little shards of tile everywhere, alongside with interior the flesh of everyone interior sight. i replaced into going to place sixteen x sixteen tiles in my bathe section, and a contractor suggested I greater constructive be useful the wall above the bathe is shelter because of the fact if one got here loose and hit me interior the top it does not be sturdy. I went with little a million x a million tiles on the ceiling with greater tiles on the wall. despite you submit is in basic terms going to be as shelter as what's in the back of it. in basic terms my opinion, yet for safeties sake, i could get rid of the previous tile and start up over. bear in mind, there is by no skill adequate time or funds to do it suitable the 1st time, yet there is often adequate time and funds to do it over!!!
Q:Hi Folks,Currently I have a bath tub with a vinyl shower surround. I‘m considering removing the shower surround and replacing it with tile.I‘m just wondering how big of a job this is? I‘ve never tiled before but consider myself handy and have done plenty around the house.Of note, I don‘t believe proper backboard is underneath the surround so I‘d have to put that up also. I‘ve put drywall up in the past so I think that part should be ok.So...is this a do it yourself job? Or is this something that needs to be hired out for. Seems like it should be simple, but maybe I‘m missing something and it gets complicated or difficult to make come out nice?Also, how long should this take if I did it myself (days and hours per day) and how long before I can start using the shower again.Thanks!
You can cut the edge of the tub off and lay the tile right to the top surface of the tub, leave a small gap for grout or caulking. make sure that the backer board is to the edge too. A sawzall will work with a fine blade.You will need to be careful when ya cut though. You can use thin set but there are different grades, use the more expensive one with the polymers in it if you want it to last for decades. You can also fur out the wall half inch or so to make up for the difference at the top of the tub, this will bring the backer board out to where you need it, where it is even with the top of the tub.

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