• Glazed Porcelain Tile PARIS Serie VERSAILLES PAVE24 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile PARIS Serie VERSAILLES PAVE24 System 2
Glazed Porcelain Tile PARIS Serie VERSAILLES PAVE24

Glazed Porcelain Tile PARIS Serie VERSAILLES PAVE24

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1105.92
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile PARIS Serie VERSAILLES PAVE24 is one of the most popular color of PARIS series, which is one serie of Glazed Porcelain Tile in our portfolio. It could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its anti slippery.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile, Color Body

  Only Grade AA available

         Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Plywood Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1300 N

  Rupture Modulus:  35 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.5%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

        Slip-resistance: From R9 to R13

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 32 Ctns/Pallet, 768 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1105.92m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile PARIS Serie VERSAILLES PAVE24

Glazed Porcelain Tile PARIS Serie VERSAILLES PAVE24

FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 8 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1105.92 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers. 





Q: how I can install ceramic tile on a wall and what tools do I need to do so? Any other tip that I should know about it to do a good job would be appreciated.
You can put tile board over your drywall, then use mastic and spacers to set the tile on your wall. Look it up online, and you'll figure out how. I've done all this without any experience, but I am hyper-intelligent, so good luck.
Q: I have a large number of tiles on the walls of the laboratory nowadays, and the whole piece of fall, years ago is normal, do not know how the matter, please answer expert!
There are two possibilities: One, paving time and space drums, two, paving no seam or stay too small, hot up caused by cold
Q: tiles on back splash, work done in south florida, 4x4 inch tiles
I charge around 5 a s/f and if u believe the other tile setters on the forums they are getting much more than i am. I work for 3-$3.50 for builders for basic 12x12 installations. The price goes up for different tiles/sizes/custom/complicated installs.
Q: I‘m having a small bathroom remodled. The floor isn‘t perfectly rectangular, there are some uneven areas because of the tub. I would like the opinion of a profession tiler (should there be one put there, somewhere)...should the floor tiles always be centered, or start lined up against a wall? Also, should the grout be completely dry before sealing it? Thanks.
It is extremely rare that any floor is perfectly rectangular. That is why we dry fit the tile before we actually lay it. The idea is to lay it out in such a way that you maximize the size of all border tiles. The larger the border tiles, the less you will notice any variances in the walls. So, sometimes the tile will be centered, sometimes start against a wall, sometimes none of the above. Each job is different. I will give you an example of when you don't want to center your first grout line. When doing so will result in very narrow border tiles. In such a case, the contractor has to come up with a solution Make sense? There are many more scenarios I can think of, but I think you get the point.
Q: Following on from my previous question about tiles... I had asked if it's better to remove them or tile over the top. At that time, I thought they were bedded in the same stuff as the bathroom tiles were upstairs which was a very fine and compacted sandy stuff that was not set.However, after trying to remove a couple of the mosaic floor tiles in the kitchen, it seems they are bedded in the actual concrete floor itself !!! and instead of being able to remove them, it just chips the tile and breaks off the surface somewhat. They're extremely difficult to remove so: Will my new tiles be completely ok if set on top of these? can you please let me know how to prepare them and what to look out for?Height-wise it doesn't matter, I'll simply order shorter doors. I'm really concerned about the long term strength because it's a kitchen that will get a lot of use / humidity/ etc...Thank you
You may be able to do it as the last guy answered, but I would never guarantee the results in the long run. The proper way is to chip up all the old tile and start from scratch.
Q: Can I paint over the tiles? If so what kind of products would I use and how would I prep the tiles?
You say it's for the 40's is the tile plastic?, if so get a wide 3-4'' metal scraper and pop all the tile off the first one may need a little elbow grease but once you get the first one the rest goes easily. The glue will still be on the wall so invest in a good heat gun and heat and scrape all the glue off the walls. These walls should be plaster so you shouldn't have a problem. What ever is left on the walls can be lightly sanded til smooth, wash walls, prime and paint. It will take some time but the end result is worth it. I did this in a 50's kitchen and bathroom, the tile in the tub was even on the ceiling. Good luck! If the tile is ceramic its a whole other story and project. Painting than would be advisable because you would ruin most of the walls removing ceramic tiles.
Q: How to choose a tile test method?
1 with a glass of water poured on the back of the tiles, water stains spread quickly, indicating high water absorption, otherwise the lower 2. You can use a hard object to scratch the tile glazed, if left traces, indicating poor quality 3. Look at the color of the tiles is not clear, with the naked eye to see if there is no pinhole, pinhole easy to accumulate dirt 4. Tile flatness, flat side, easy to shop, the effect is also good (visual method, the tiles placed on the flat surface to see whether the four sides are fully consistent with the flat surface, while looking at whether the four corners of the tiles are right angle , And then placed in the same variety of tiles and the same type of tiles to observe the degree of color difference)
Q: More specifically, do you lay the tile right against the floorboard with no groat visible? Or would you put a spacer in between the floorboard and the tile so that it you have grout along the edge?
That is what base boards and shoe molding are for. To cover the gap in the flooring material at the wall.
Q: I see Dongpeng ceramic tile on the packaging that write what the site, and then write the OF, OB what, I now Tangshan life, we say now Tangshan Dongpeng brick are Shandong, is that right?
May be, from the near the possibility of great, we northwest of Shandong brick more.
Q: Okay so i live in an apartment and i cant EVER get mant. out here to fix this... the stuff thats between the tiles is missing and it looks gross and then the white rubber stuff that sits between the tub and the tile is coming off in random places.... what is this stuff called and would i be able to fix this junk myself???The white stuff that connects the tubs looks like that white stuff they use to connect the base boards to the hardwood floor...
The material between the tiles is called grout. You will want to use unsanded grout. First clean the tiles very well, mix the grout with water to a paste like consistancy. You can also buy premixed grout, but more expensive. Use a rubber grout trowel to force this paste in between the tiles, holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle. Let dry for a few hours, and then use a damp sponge to wipe off the surface of the tiles. Finally, seal the grout lines with a grout sealer. Actually, this is an easy job for a DIYer. The white stuff that seals the tub to the wall is called silicone sealant. First remove the old silicone, and then clean the area. Then clean it again, and then clean it again, and finally, wipe down the area with rubbing alcohol. Did I mention you should clean the area? Silicone does not seal well to any greasy area. Soap scum is grease based. Next, take a caulking gun, load the caulk, snip off the tip, puncture the tube with a nail, and apply caulk to the seam. Don't worry if it looks messy. Once the bead of caulk is applied, use your wet finger to smooth it out the way you like it. Caulk can be cleaned up with water, as long as it hasn't dried. Let dry 24 hours, and you are in business. All the tools and materials I have mentioned can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. I figure you can do the whole project for less than $50.

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