Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B311
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1152 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Basic Information:
Tile Type | Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile |
Certificate | ISO13006, ISO9001 |
Finish | Nano Finish |
Size | 600x600mm |
Water Absorption Rate | Below 0.5% |
Packing | Carton + Wooden Pallets |
Usage | Floor and wall |
Other Choices | many designs, size, colors |
Delivery Time | 15~20 days after 30% deposit received |
Features:
l Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality
l Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;
l Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable
l Material: glazed porcelain
l Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements
l The full polished glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall as well as other public sites.
l Vivid stone texture and vein bring our decoration the natural stone beauty with much lower cost, easier quality control and easier decoration proceeding.
l Advanced glazing technology to make sure the tile surface beauty vivid and clean, via ink-jetting or silk printing.
l We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on client’s requirement;
l We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;
l Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as white degree.
- Q: CAN YOU LAY TILE OVER TILE
- If your existing tile is tight to the floor and in good shape (no cracks, loose tile, loose grout) yes you can. You need to use a thin set with a very high latex content like TEC Superflex. Be sure that the existing tile and grout is perfectly clean and there are no sealers left on the grout. This is an industry accepted method.
- Q: My kitchen has ceramic tile already installed and I despise it and have for years. I do not want to put a big investment into this house as I do not plan on living there for much over 2 more years. I just want to cover it up and make it look better. This site seems pretty legit and only deals with self stick tile. Anyone know of pros or cons? Have any suggestions?
- Cons would be that it costs close to $10 a square foot. I also doubt that it looks as good in person as the site claims. I've installed a lot of surface coverings, including tile-textured vinyl wallpaper and a variety of peel and stick material and they rarely look that convincing when they are right under your nose, as a countertop backsplash would be. That's a lot of money for a coverup job, And you don't say where the tile is installed. Walls? Countertop? Floors? That stickandgo is strictly for walls, not any area that would have moisture lying on it or traffic. If it is just your walls it would be a lot cheaper just to hire someone to tear off the ceramic tile and put up something different. It only cost me $6 a square foot for labor and $3 for material to have a real ceramic subway tile back splash installed in my kitchen last year. It would be even less if you did it yourself. If you are thinking of covering a floor, look at the Trafficmaster Allure material at Home Depot -- excellent product and about $2 a square foot. Installs like a dream, completely waterproof, can go over an uneven surface, adheres to itself, not what is behind it (it floats), easy to remove later, and both the tile and wood versions look and feel absolutely real. We did my friend's large bathroom with it in less than 4 hours last winter and it looks like a hardwood floor and holds up to anything. I used the slate-look tiles in my breakfast room of my previous house and everyone who saw it thought it was real stone. If it's your countertops, it is easy and cheap to replace countertops with new laminate and the new laminates are not your Grandma's formica -- many look like high-end granite and even metals.
- Q: We are going to replace the bathtub that came with our house, built in 1986, but we can not decide whether or not to just get a regular bath combination shower or just the bathtub and tile the shower walls...any suggestions or experience with this that anyone would be able to recommend either way?
- What type of flooring is in the room? Do you have another shower? I really like look of tile, but not cleaning it. I would recommend using a medium/dark grout.
- Q: I have some ceramic tiles in my kitchen floor that I would like to paint. Would this be possible?
- It is possible to paint tile but this does wear very quickly and does not work very well .Other than using a resin based floor paint there is not a lot you can do with tiles
- Q: I‘m tiling my bathroom shower and need to cut holes for the shower head and body sprayers. I‘m using porcelain tile and I‘m not having any luck cutting the holes. I‘ve bought a couple holes saw bits that say they are for porcelain, but they just don‘t seem to be doing the job. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
- I cut ,and you can too, all my porcelains and ceramic tile w/ a wet saw. I mark front and back w/ a permanent marker. I mark a 1 to a 1/1/4 hole . I make a square . Front of the tile I just score it good w/ a wet saw. In this case the smaller the blade the better. Then I flip the tile over and hold the tile w/ my arm w/ my fingers over the scored front holes. Then I plunge cut each side of the hole carefully. Just letting the blade come thru. It won t cut your fingers .. Once you have all 4 side cut, you can tap the hole out or carefully cut it more until it falls out. They also make a small dry saw that has a 4 blade that will work, since I ve also used mine 100 s of times this way too if my wet saw wasn t set up. You must have the tile on a flat surface to do this though..Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar and check my qualifications there GL
- Q: but, not all the same time b/c I can‘t afford it. which project should be done first? a friend told me it is better to replace the tiles first because the dust is not good for paint.paint vanities orreplace tiles orreplace the bathtub?
- Let's think logically for a moment. If you tile first, then when you go to change the tub, the new tub may be a different shape and then you are stuck replacing tiles and risk a bad patch job. Replace the tub first, pulling up the existing floor covering that currently goes up to the tub as not to trap it down which would interfere with he new tile later on. Paint second and tile last.
- Q: i had a pipe leak into my bedroom and now everything is torn apart so i am remodeling my room and i cant decide between wood or tile flooring. my dad said wood because it looks good and because our living room and theater room is tile and if my bedroom is tile it wouldnt make any sense. my mom says i should get tile because if my grandma spills her drink or eat in my room it wont ruin the tile and its easy to clean up but if wood it could be ruined with scratch marks or circle stain on the wood from the cup or drink she spills. so now i dont know which one to choose. also i would like to paint my room blue and wonder if you guys have any suggestions on the shade colors of blue any website or image of the shade color would be nice if i could view them. thank you in advance!
- Wood flooring is much better in the bedroom because it retains warmth. A tile feel is best in the kitchen and bathroom.
- Q: What is the best thickness of the tile?
- In Wuhan decoration online network looked at: tiles are generally divided into polished tiles, antique tiles, tiles three categories. Each type according to the size of the size of the thickness of the thickness are not the same, the general 800 * 800 polished tiles in the 9mm - 12mm or so, Seiko jade in the 15--18mm or so; tiles 300 * 450,300 * 600 in general 7-10mm or so; antique brick and polished tile thickness difference is not much, each manufacturer's specific brick thickness is not the same.
- Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
- Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
- Q: The bathroom tile in my recently purchased house isn‘t finished. The previous owner used floor tile to surround the tub; he/she left many pieces of tile unfinished, but luckily left us a stack of the tiles so we could finish it off. However, we don‘t have an unlimited supply of these tiles, so we‘d like to get it right with as few tries as possible!I‘m wondering: -I need to fit the tub faucet and knobs within two 12 square tiles. What‘s the best way to measure the placement of the fixtures? Is it possible to make some sort of template that I could transfer to the tiles? -Can I make the cuts for the fixtures using a hacksaw-type tile saw blade, or should I buy a tile drill bit? (I realize it rather depends on where the fixtures fall within the tile-- but if I don‘t need to buy both, I won‘t waste my money. )Thanks!
- If you are trying to use floor tile on the walls, I would go to a tile store and have them make the cuts you need (use a grease pencil to mark the tiles) the two methods described in the first two answers can help you. but if you have ever tried to cut floor tile with one of those hacksaw tile blades you would know that it is VERY DIFFICULT, wall tile cuts no problem but floor tile is much tougher. also if you know where they were purchased they may cut them for you for free.
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Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B311
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1152 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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