• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-H6028 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-H6028 System 2
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-H6028

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-H6028

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month
Option:
600X600 MM

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Specification

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile:
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

Product Brief Introduction

 

The glazed porcelain floor tile is wildly popular in Europe, North America and Middle East. The modle NO. CMAX-H6028 is one of the popular designs in the present market. Just like other glazed porcelain floor tile, it could be used for interior floor and wall for apartment, villa, as well as other public areas, due to its unique antique feel image and texture. Besides, it is also proper for retails and distribution marketing channels.

 

Product Features

 

  Excelent glaze surface and porcelain tile body

   Grade AAA quality standard only

   The basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm based on the actual project needs.

  Strict quality control system on water absorption rate, color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, slip-resistance, abrasion resistance .

  Compititive prices

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Solid Wooden Pallet

  Fast production arrangement

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006,EN14411.

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1300 N

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.5%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Slip Resistance: 0.5

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl

  For 300x600mm, 8pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-H6028

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-H6028

 

FAQ

 

1.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

 

2.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

 

 

3.   Could we be your exclusive agent in our country?

—— Possibly. For some countries we are hoping to find a proper partner in working market together. For sure we need to have a good talking for the details.

 

4.   Could we arrange the our own QC to check the items before container loading?

—— Yes, of course. Your quality checking will be welcome all the times.

 

5.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For those models whose production could be arranged frequently, we could mix 2 or 3 models in one container.

 

 

Q:I have strip kitchen floor to sub floor. i am ready to install tiles. My question is: How to do the wet bed for laying ties later on.
I m assuming yo mean a mortar bed or a mud bed for tiles. You don t want to do this for later on as you say. You want to lay tiles soon after it s set so you don t ruin the mortar bed by walking on it. This isnt something you usually just do , it takes practice and a bit of experience and is hard work but worth it when done right. A wet bed is a base of cement that the tiles are installed as you go. Old fashion method rarely used anymore. Now a mud bed is used and then a thin set is used to adhere the tile down. If you want to do a mud bed e mail me through my avatar and I ll guide you through it. GL
Q:Ok we are remodeling our kitchen and have the area between the counter tops and the bottom of the upper cabinets that is currently some ugly green tiles. Very small ones at that. We do not want the hassle to remove these and try to replace with something more attractive. We are looking for solutions to just cover the tiles with something d-i-y and not too expensive. I have seen a lot of peel and stick stuff but don't know if it can be used on tiles. Please give suggestions!
Peel and stick will not work. Everybody is else is right that you'd be much happier removing the old tile and either re-tiling or just using wall underneath (if needs repair you may have to cover with a new thin sheet of drywall.) If you refuse to do it......you could just paint the tile. Clean it really well, prime it, and paint over the top. It's the easiest and cheapest way to cover it up. Once again, I have to say that I think if you are going through all of the trouble to remodel the kitchen, you might as well just remove the old tile and replace it with new. You could get subway tile, which is cheap and timeless.......
Q:I am planning on tiling the backsplash area of my kitchen. I am using 6x6 ceramic porecelin tile (roman stone). The dimensions of the area is 17x60. When i went to scrape the original paint off of the wall I will be tiling, the first thin layer of the drywall came off with the paint. This layer is paper thin. I went to Home Depot and they told me to use Zissner 123 sealer. I put on two coats and the wall seems sealed pretty good. I will be using Mastic as my adhesive. Do you think that I will be ok tiling three tiles high (first tile is laying on the granite countertop) without using a backerboard. Will the drywall be able to hold the mastic/tile even though I ripped off a thin layer of drywall but sealed it with 123 sealer?
Yes, the basic drywall will hold the tile just fine. You didn't even need to waste time and money on the sealer. Backer board is only required on a floor or counter top where weight will be placed on the finished surface. The backer board is used to stiffen the base and prevent flexing. This is not needed on a wall. Good luck back splashes look great when completed.
Q:I am thinking about tiling 2 bathrooms in a rental property and planning to use 12x12 tiles costing $1 each. I want to use the same tiles for bathtub surrounds as well as floor. I am looking for some advice about the size of tiles that may be appropriate.Thanks
I built my entire shower, floor, wall, and even ceiling with 12x12 looks great, but you have to be patient on the walls, and ceiling. I have put many 12x12's on the walls of tubs. Make sure you use something for the spacers for the wall or they will slide down. A thin strip of 3/8 plywood works great. If you ever put them on a ceiling you have to use screws with large washer, and glue. You can take the screws out once the glue is cured. To grout a ceiling you have to use silicone caulk and then dust the grout let dry and then seal. Makes for one cool looking bathroom.
Q:Ok my room has asbestos on the vynil tile floor and it‘s in good condition. I‘m trying to put a carpet on top of the floor is it possible without removing the tile? Home Depot wants me to remove it before they install the carpet.
I wouldn't remove it. The asbestos in vinyl tile won't hurt you until you start scraping and breaking it up. Just have them install it over the tiles. There should be no problem with that. If the idiots at HD give you a hard time, go somewhere else (which is your best bet from the HD horror stories I've read about online). Note: Asbestos products were used into the mid 70s, so if your house is older than 1960 doesn't mean you don't have asbestos tiles.
Q:We laid tile in our Master bath about a month and a half ago. Now we have 2 tiles that are crackd. I would like to no what caused it. We have a slab foundation.
It depends on what you used as the adhesive. You may not have enough thinset/tile adhesive under the cracked tiles OR the slab floor was not leveled properly. You will have to remove those 2 tiles and scrape the adhesive off the floor and check for level. Once that is done you can re-apply thinset adhesive as that is the best for flooring applications, and re-set the tiles in the new thinset and tap them down a little bit so they are level with the tiles around them.
Q:Hello! I currently have a 3 season sunroom addition on the back of my home that has been stripped down to the wood. I recently saw a 4 season sunroom that had tile down and needless to say, I fell in love with it! I am thinking about putting tile down in there but am worried about the weather...I live in Minnesota where it gets very cold...and that room is not heated in the winter. Would I have problems with the tile cracking? Or does anyone know of an alternative way to get a tile-looking floor without having to worry the temperature changes??
Tile can be laid outside, so temperature is not the issue. The type of tile you use will determine if it stays down or not. I would look into a porcelain tile which is double fired and extremely hard, or a frost-proof tile which is used around swimming pools.
Q:Im trying to figure out how to apply (vct) Vinyl tile squares? Whats the best way to start a project? What adhesive do you use if any? Is it like ceramic with some form of grout? etc!
Look you don't have to start in the middle of the room measure across the room. Measure your sticky back tile. Figure out how much you will have to cut off of the two peices of tile on either wall. try to make it so you are cutting the exact same amount off of both peices. Once you have figured it out and laid down the first on one side go across the room. Remeasure the last peice to make sure, if it a little different it is ok. It will look as if both wall peices go under youe wall. and you won't have a full peice at one end and a half peice at the other or just a sliver on one end. Oh yeah make sure you pull up your base board so you can cover any gaps against your wall first, because usually most houses start off somewhat square, but you will still have a small crack to cover up. You might want to consider also putting down a shoe molding (just a thought). Use something like a rolling pin to apply the tile to the floor well. DO NOT PUSH DOWN ON THE TILE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE THAT IT IS IN THE RIGHT PLACE. Try to get the seams as tight as possible. You should do fine just take your time, and you will probably also cut a few tiles the wrong size. It is ok, Use a box knife to cut your tile from the back of it. Score a line, not necessarily all the way through, then simply break it, then come down the front with your knife to make the precise cut the rest of the way through. Have fun.
Q:I am looking at replacing my kitchen floor, which currently has carpeting. (Bought the house like that.) And now I am looking to do either vinyl or tile. I understand tile is good for a lifetime, where as vinyl is good for 15-20 years for the heavier kind, but tile is double the cost. We plan on staying in our house a long time, if not forever, but in the case we would decide to sell, would tile or vinyl give us more value?
I've always been happy with vinyl sheet flooring. You drop something breakable on tile and that puppy's BROKE. You will never recoup the added expense of tile for resale purposes--so don't do it with that in mind--the color and style you choose will probably be out by then. A maintenance for the grout is a pain; unless you're obsessively scrubby, then it always looks dingy and dirty--I don't have time or inclination for that level of home care.. Vinyl's beautiful and durable nowadays, with it being relatively inexpensive, you could afford to replace it for fashion's sake if you like.
Q:I tiled my fireplace and mixed the grout according to the right measurements. now a whole section of it is crumbling... can someone tell me why this is and what to do - thank you
When you say on the fireplace, I assume you mean the face of it. Without seeing it , it's hard to tell. I can only suspect that you used too much water in the mix, causing it to be weak. Or possibly the heat from the fireplace is expanding the tiles and causing the grout to pop out.

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