• Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A398D System 1
  • Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A398D System 2
  • Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A398D System 3
Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A398D

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A398D

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1683 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm, CMAX3A398D is one of the popular models of 300*300 mm glazed floor tile, which is wildly used for floor of kitchen and bathroom as well as balcony and bedroom. These tiles could create an antique feel of classic European life, just like living in the old times of nature and pastoral life.  

 

Product Features

  Glazed Floor Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict quality control system on product, package and after sale service

  Competitive price and with quality quaranteed

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast production arrangement after order is confirmed by the client

  OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement from the client

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for the whole importing and exporting procedure.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Dry-Pressed Tile, Silk Printing Glazed Surface

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 3% -- 6%

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  11pcs/Ctn, 18.5kg/Ctn,1472Ctns/20’Fcl, 1457.28m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A398D

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A398D

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A398D

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Floor Tile, what is the popular size?

—— Now the popular sizes are 30*30mm, 40*40mm, for some special market, we are shipping 50*50mm tile also.  

 

2.    Is there a MOQ for each model?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For some special models, whose production could be arranged frequently, 2 or 3 models could be mixed into one container.  

 

 

3.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit?

 

 

 

Q: I don‘t want to rent a wet saw for just a few pieces of tile. And I certainly don‘t need to buy one. Do some places offer this service if so where. Thanks
A lot of places that sell tile will do this service. Home depot and Lowes does too. I believe , but not sure they charge for all cuts but call them to check their policy. A lot of places that sell tile will do it for a small fee. When I had my store we cut a customers tile ( if they bought it from us) for free , up to ten cuts and then a dollar a cut after that. Or a dollar a cut if they bought the tile some where else. Call tile store or where you bought the tile. You may have to leave it until a installer comes back at night or on occasion I took tile to the job site and cut it the next day. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
Q: Im applying going for a pre apprenticeship next month and I‘m not sure which one to choose from, electrician or wall and floor tiling? I think electrician pays more but you need to be a bit smarter the I am and I‘m afraid I won‘t do well. Or I could just to.. You know tiling not that hard. I‘m from Western Australia if that helps knowing the best jobs for my state. Thank you :)
Tiling is very hard on your knees and back. I would go for the electrician job. In America heat and air conditioning pays the best by far. Good luck! Let us know what you decide.
Q: In my Bathroom, I want to update the tile. It‘s the small rough octagon shape in white w/black speckles. Grout is also white. I hate it, stays dirty. Thought about sanding it and putting a dye and sealer on it, but I dont know if this can be done. 2nd choice is replacing the grout w/black but I am back with the white tile, does anyone know if the sanding and dyeing it would work? I thought I would try this first, it would be cheap, because I have a sander and I can do it myself.. and thought I could maybe use the dye you use to dye clothes (possible?) and then just a polyurthane to seal. If I do anything else like, remove ceramic tile, this may be costly..Any suggestions?
This tile is hard to get up. It comes on a 12 x 12 paper mesh, so getting one up doesn't help with the next one. The good news is that if you could clean it up, it has a wonderful retro look. You can buy grout colorant and that would be the easiest soloution. (Dark charcoal would be best. Black grout is almost as hard to keep as white.) If you are really tired of looking at it and you can't be convinced to pull it up, you can put a thin layer of quik crete on top of it and start with another floor altogether, IF raising the lever nearly 1/2 won't interfere with the doors or cause people to trip as they come into the bath. The thinnest floor tile is about 1/4 thick, and these will be small tiles again, on the order of what you have. You can get 1 x 1's, 2 x 2's, and 3 x3's squares, in porcelain, in a variety of colors. (They are designed for shower floors.) The next thinnest, yet larger floor tiles are going to be about 3/8 thick. By the time you have quik crete and mastic, you are looking at a 1/2 rise in floor height. If you start going over 12 x 12 sizes, the tiles get thicker still. Whatever tiles you select, make sure they have some texture and are designed for floors. (You don't want to install a hazard, slipping the first time you have wet feet.) You should be able to find how-to books about tile demo and installation at big home stores like Lowe's and Home Depot.
Q: My kitchen has ceramic tile already installed and I despise it and have for years. I do not want to put a big investment into this house as I do not plan on living there for much over 2 more years. I just want to cover it up and make it look better. This site seems pretty legit and only deals with self stick tile. Anyone know of pros or cons? Have any suggestions?
Cons would be that it costs close to $10 a square foot. I also doubt that it looks as good in person as the site claims. I've installed a lot of surface coverings, including tile-textured vinyl wallpaper and a variety of peel and stick material and they rarely look that convincing when they are right under your nose, as a countertop backsplash would be. That's a lot of money for a coverup job, And you don't say where the tile is installed. Walls? Countertop? Floors? That stickandgo is strictly for walls, not any area that would have moisture lying on it or traffic. If it is just your walls it would be a lot cheaper just to hire someone to tear off the ceramic tile and put up something different. It only cost me $6 a square foot for labor and $3 for material to have a real ceramic subway tile back splash installed in my kitchen last year. It would be even less if you did it yourself. If you are thinking of covering a floor, look at the Trafficmaster Allure material at Home Depot -- excellent product and about $2 a square foot. Installs like a dream, completely waterproof, can go over an uneven surface, adheres to itself, not what is behind it (it floats), easy to remove later, and both the tile and wood versions look and feel absolutely real. We did my friend's large bathroom with it in less than 4 hours last winter and it looks like a hardwood floor and holds up to anything. I used the slate-look tiles in my breakfast room of my previous house and everyone who saw it thought it was real stone. If it's your countertops, it is easy and cheap to replace countertops with new laminate and the new laminates are not your Grandma's formica -- many look like high-end granite and even metals.
Q: The tiles are textured and it seems that the high spots are wearing and can not be cleaned. Is this caused by inexpensive tiles?Texturing? Will I have to replace the floor? What product should I use? Any information will be appreacated.
Yes your tiles are wearing out. Most cheap tile last 8 to 10 years. The best bet will be a better ceramic tile or porcelain tile. Be sure to take up the old before you start. Do not leave the old down. To keep using your old tile you can get vinyl type wax and wax the tile. Get the old tile as clean as you can before applying the wax
Q: Easiest way to remove stick tile
I used a 3 putty knife.
Q: My husband and I just purchased our first house and we are pretty much tapped out for now. We dont have alot of money to remodel but enough to make some temporary improvements until next spring. All of our families are coming for the holidays and I want to spruce up our house. My biggest problem both of our bathrooms floors they are bad looking. I want to put peel and stick tile down but not sure how to measure for it. I want to do this today while my hubby is at work so I can surprise him. Im working on the master bath first its not that big, its only 5 feet by 5 inches long and 5 feet by 3 inches wide. How much peel and stick would I need? I have already cleaned the floors very well, what other tools do i need to get?
Most tile packs give an area coverage guide ,this site will give you a visual instruction of how to lay etc hope it helps,also times the length by the width to get the area 28'6 You will only need a stanley knife and a straight edge to cut self adhesive tiles
Q: Okay the apartment i live in was built in the 60‘s and unfortunately everything is completely out of date. Trying to get the maintnence people out is more of a hastle than help. So im trying to do this myself. The stuff inbetween the tiles no matter how hard i scrub with scrubbing bubbles and kaboom and everything doesnt come clean this yuckiness is all over lining the tub and all tiles. Does anyone have any ideas on how i can fix this what to use or if i need to regrout how do i do this ? thanks
there are also many different types of grout cleaner you can find them a your local hardware store you could also try some Muratec acid it is used when cleaning brick and stone.
Q: Remodeling the bathroom...How can i drill a hole in ceramic tile...What kind of drill would I use..or what kind of file would be best to make a hole in the tile to go around the shower faucet..Thanks for your input...
The composition of ceramic tiles is as different as there are countries in the world. For this reason, there is no one single answer on how to drill a hole in ceramic tile. There is, however, one drill bit that indeed will go through each and every tile, but you may have great difficulty locating it. Many ceramic tiles have a fairly soft inner core and a thin hard glaze on the outer surface that you look at. These are the very easy to drill through. The easiest tiles to drill into are very soft tiles that are often found in homes built in the southwestern part of the USA. Frequently these have no glaze or a very thin satin finish. Tile hardness is a function of the type of clay and its silica content used to make the tile. The final hardness of the tile is also directly related to the amount of time the tile is in the firing kiln and the temperature inside the kiln. High temperature and long baking times can produce rock-hard tile. Glass and porcelain tiles are very popular right now. These products are the hardest tiles to drill into. You can use a sharp carbide drill, but you need to oil or water the bit to keep it cool as it rotates on the tile. A diamond-encrusted bit will drill into porcelain or glass faster than carbide, but these bits are expensive. If you are drilling into softer tile, a regular carbide bit works fine. Do not use a hammer drill as the rapid vibrations can crack the tile. The trick is to use a slow drilling speed and carefully grind through the surface of the thin glaze. Once the bit gets into the softer core, the drill will rapidly cut through the softer fired clay. Do not apply too much pressure when you first drill as the drill and bit can slip away from the marked point and scratch the tile. The worst mistakes you can make are cracking or scratching a tile. If that happens, it will be a considerable amount of work to replace the damaged tile(s). Be careful and proceed slowly as you drill.
Q: Over time the tiles in my apartment bathtub have turned yellow. It‘s not all of the tiles, just a few in the back/corner. I undoubtedly have hard water but I can‘t figure out why a few of these tiles are yellow. As far as I can tell, these are cheap plastic tiles (white). I have tried comet (with bleach), full strength bleach, vinegar/water solution, vinegar/baking soda, baking soda by itself, mr. clean magic eraser, and full strength CLR to no avail. The only thing that worked at all was using comet and scouring the tiles with steel wool. Although it scratched the surface, the actual scratch part wasn‘t noticeable. But there has to be an easier way than breaking my arm to get one tile cleaned. Any suggestions? If anyone wants I can email them a picture of the tiles.
Anything you've used that has already scratched the tiles will only result in hard water deposits clinging to them again, as the glaze has been compromised. CLR full strength is really the only thing that works that won't damage the tiles although it requires repeated treatments to clean them. Take an extra fine media abrasive (0000), mix a 50/50 solution of a product called Barkeeper's Friend and CLR and try this. You may have to treat it several times but the hard water scale should dissolve without damaging the tiles. I've heard of mixing a solution of scratchless cleaning powder and kerosene, but you don't want to apply that to plastic and you don't want to use VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) in confined spaces. A better solution would be to break out all the plastic tile and have it replaced with ceramics, but since you're renting and your landlord probably doesn't want to spend money on remodeling this is your best bet.

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