• Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLSR001 System 1
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLSR001 System 2
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLSR001

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLSR001

Ref Price:
$6.15 - 6.25 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLSR001 is a very popular color in the present market. Just like other models, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its stone like surface, being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Full Polished Porcelain Tile, high glossy

   Grade AAA available only

  Strict quality control system on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

  Comprehensive marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team available for the whole order operation process

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Size Tolerance: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, , 35KgS/Ctn, 36 Ctns/Pallet, 780 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1123.2 m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 56Kgs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 500 Ctns/20’Fcl, 960 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLSR001

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-TLSR001

 

FAQ

  

1.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton. If the order quantity is over 5 containers, we could print the carton of client’s design for the final packing.

 

2.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

 

3.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

 

4.   Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.

 

5.   Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?

—— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.

 

6.   Could we be your exclusive agent in our country?

—— Possibly. For some countries we are hoping to find a proper partner in working market together. For sure we need to have a good talking for the details.

 

7.   Could we arrange the our own QC to check the items before container loading?

—— Yes, of course. Your quality checking will be welcome all the times.

 

Q: So I have the substrate ready, the room is a L shape 253 x 148. Where do I start the tile, I am assuming the center of each on a chalk line. Is this correct?Bond
As others have said, start in the center and make your cuts all on the edges, but be careful you don't end up with a sliver of tile. Measure and pencil in the center of each leg of the L, so your chalk lines make an X at the center of the corner where the two parts meet. Then measure away from that line to see how each tile will get cut at the walls. If there is a pattern with strong lines on it, you have to be careful to lay out the cuts so that if there is any taper, due to the floor being not perfectly square...that you don't have cuts going across the lines and accentuating the error. So think ahead! If you can't help but have a funny edge, see if you can put it on a side that is covered with furniture, or isn't that visible in normal use. Do the same with the tile in the other rooms...do some measuring, and see what layout gives you the best size tiles. You don't want to have small tiles at the transitions from one room to another. Adjust your X starting point so your cut tiles are not too small. You should lay it out so you can use the biggest tiles you can (in other words, don't cut little strips to fill in a gap...shift the whole centerline over to make those slivers at least a 1/3 tile. Once you have your X starting point, put down 4 tiles around that X, and work out from the center, but don't run all the tile down the lines, then do another row, etc.. out in an expanding pattern. If you do a long run all at once, and are just off by a tiny bit at the start...the error with keep growing. Work out from your starting point, filling in all the floor as you go, leaving the edges to trim last. I strongly recommend the Time-Life books on this.
Q: we have about 500 sq feet of tile in our house and want to put carpet over it. the tile is not finished in the hallway tho, does that matter? and do you know an approximate cost for ripping the tile out? like $1,000+? $2,000+?thank you!
Here's okorder /... Removing tile is a huge labor intensive messy job. I would also want to find alternatives. :-)
Q: it sets fast, is there any gun, aparatus or equipment to easly apply epoxy tile grout.
1. Why epoxy?, it will take longer to apply, will be messy and won't give you the opportunity to allow it to go under bare spot of your tile. 2. I would take it back and get regular grout. 3. Sounds like your going for a good seal and the best way to do that is regular grout and a grout sealer. 4. If you still want to use it, tape around all tiles, wear rubber gloves (surgical tight fitting type) and have a bucket of water handy. Apply epoxy about half of what you need, wet finger and push into cracks, then add more and smooth with wet finger. The whole process should take about an hour for a 4x4 section when you can grout a whole room in a half hour with regular grout. One last thing to consider, if you ever crack a tile it will be next to impossible to replace just one without breaking others around it, but with regular grout it would be relatively easy.
Q: Im putting that peel-n-stick tile stuff in my new apartment over the stuff thats there (i dont know what its called but its like plastic kinda) is there any thing i have to do other then sweep before i put the new one down?
should be spotless, if the floor is not truly clean than the sticking tile will come loose
Q: I have thinset my slate tiles in place, and washed any thin set off as best as I can with water. I can‘t seem to get some of the thinset marks off, how important is this? Also, how long should I let the tiles dry before I can seal them? (I want to seal before grouting). One last thing, my sealer product says to grout 2 hours after sealing? This seems fast...will the sealer be dry enough?
Ideally you could have sealed your slate before setting (as long as you kept the sealer off the edges of the tiles). This would have made thinset and grout clean-up much easier. You really need to get all the thinset off your tiles. At this point you might need some hot water, a scrungy pad and some elbow grease. If that doesn't do it then you'll need to use a cleaning solution - maybe they have something where you bought the slate (make sure it's safe for natural stone). So after the tiles are thinset free, you can seal - again only the tops of the tile. If sealer gets down the sides your grout will not grab hold as well. Apply enough sealer to coat, but avoid puddling. You can grout after 2 hrs - but you can wait longer if you like. I would seal your grout after it dries as well. Hope this helped... Rich
Q: while laying new floor of tiles, i‘m confused above, which tiles are more durable for floor: homogenized floor tiles or glazed floor tiles, or granite floor tiles
In a home setting it rally doesn t matter what you use. They ll all out last us if they are properly set. And setting is the key from the floor prep to the glueing of the tile with thin set. Two basic type of porcelains, full bodied porcelains where the color goes through out. The backing is basically the same colored as the front. Then you have glazed porcelains where the tile body is porcelain , the porcelain is baked, there is a color or pattern on the surface and then a glaze is applied. Then there is the standard clay bodied tile where the clay is baked , a color on the surface and a glaze and its refired again. Homogenized tiles, and I m not over familiar with them is a very hard tile that has a very low water absorption rate. All are good products but clay tiles are not as true in sizing as most ( not all) porcelains . Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: I am renovating, and have always loved white coloured tiles but am now starting to like these light coloured hardwood Tasmanian Oak Floorboards ....I have no idea on prices yet, what would cost more? and which one would look more beautiful??PS- i would NEVER put floating floorboards - they are cheap and nasty!
Hardwoods are classic. You can never go wrong with hardwood floors as far as resell value. I renovated two years ago. We have a 1500 sq/ft home. We did tile in the bath and hardwoods everywhere else. My husband wanted to tile the kitchen as well but we were talked out of it due to labor costs. Cleaning tile grout is troublesome, sealing it is ineffective if you have food stains or mud or something. My tile floors are very pretty but I regret it. Be sure to get real hardwood with NO laminate at all. Some hardwood floors are real wood on the surface but laminated onto a synthetic bottom. Be careful that way. Things to ask before choosing: How many times can they be refinished? Are they glued or nailed? (Glued are crappy, nailing is much more effective.) How do I clean them? (I use a steamer, no chemicals.) Will my subfloor support the hardwood? (we had to install a new subfloor). Oak and Hickory are the best HARD woods to choose from.
Q: THis will be done in the powder room. Also, I am planning not to use backerboard because the tiles will be 9 x 12
I recently tiled a room of approximately the same size. Not including the cost of the tile, it cost about $150.00. I used quick set, which costs about $40 per tub. One tub, if used properly, should be enough. If the floor on which you are installing the tile is not concrete, you should stronly consider using the backing board. This will help reduce the chances of the grout, and tile from cracking. If installed on a wooden (plywood) floor, the floor can flex, resulting in cracking of the tile and grout.
Q: If I start in the middle, I will have to cut tile for both sides. I think I should start in the upper right corner, but my neighbor seems to think it will look out of balance.
Start in the middle. That's where the eye naturally strays. The edges, or corners will blend in. Yes, you may have to trim the pieces on the edges, but, it will be balanced from the center out. Good Luck!
Q: want to put tile in bathroom but don‘t know how
I merely retiled my kitchen floor and am interior the technique of doing the bathing room. Are you utilising the self stick type tiles? you do not could get rid of the sheet vinyl if there is not any injury to it. you would be suitable to place the back board for a sparkling floor for the tiles to stick to. while you're utilising the self stick tiles and don't choose to place the back board you additionally could make the tiles stick purchase utilising a tile glue purely a skinny layer will cause them to connect with the floor everlasting.

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