• Aluminium Foil Roofing Insulation Bubble for Heat and Cold System 1
  • Aluminium Foil Roofing Insulation Bubble for Heat and Cold System 2
  • Aluminium Foil Roofing Insulation Bubble for Heat and Cold System 3
Aluminium Foil Roofing Insulation Bubble for Heat and Cold

Aluminium Foil Roofing Insulation Bubble for Heat and Cold

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
5000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

The material provides excellent insulation: reflects up to 97% of radiant energy in addition to resisting other types of heat transfer from conduction,convection,and radiation.The side of metalized PET/Alu forms an effective barrier against moisture,air currents and vapors.It is economical solution in many field. 

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Contains  layers of fire ratardant bubble and air bubble laminated with both side pure aluminium foil.

 

Mainly by using thereflection principle of aluminum foil.

 

Bubble foil provides neat appearance, and reflects up to 97% heat radiant from heat source such as sun.

It provides resistance against moisture,air currents and vapors

It canresistants to punctures, tears and cracking.

Lightweight and non-taxic,there is no need to handle and install with special equipment.

Eco-friendly .

 

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

 

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on

 

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

Aluminum Foil Bubble for Heat and Cold Insulation

Aluminum Foil Bubble for Heat and Cold Insulation

 

 

Pictures and Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

 

STRUCTURE

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL

MPET /BUBBLE/MPET

ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL

THICKNESS

1-4mm

8mm

6.5mm

4mm

4mm

WEIGHT

120GSM

240GSM

180GSM

120GSM

445GSM

BUBBLE SIZE

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER

4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER

FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM

WIDTH

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

1.2m (MAX 1.5m)

THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY

0.034w/mo

0.032 w/mo

0.032w/mo 

0.034w/mo

5.87m2.k/w

REFLECTIVITY

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

96-97%

 

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

 

How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within 10 working days, we will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

 

What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

 

 

Q:We have recently moved into a house in Australia with a tin roof. There is a layer of 5cm batts on the rafters in the roof space, but the temp is 10-15 degrees C higher up there than in the house (with all the windows and doors open). I don't want to get air-conditioning, is there another way to insulate the roof and cool the house?
The attic will always be warmer than the house--that's the point of the insulation--to separate the heat in the attic from the cooler air in the house. However, to improve it even more, add insulation on the ceiling joists (not the roof rafters). Make sure there is plentiful ventilation in your attic (when the wind blows, you should feel it blowing inside your attic). Eave vents, ridge vents--it doesn't really matter which ones you use--but you have to have enough for the air to really flow.
Q:The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
Don't remove the old insulation , put new insulation over the old , making it double insulated. As suggested above blown in insulation is really good
Q:I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
Don't remove the insulation, unless it has mold in it too. Locate the source(s) of your mold problem inside your building... a high rate of interior bulk moisture, and eliminate that. Then make sure the bathrooms have exhaust fans that are wired-in with the light switch (so whenever someone turns the light on, the fan comes on too), and that the fans are vented out of your attic (otherwise you'll have mold inside your attic). Also, make sure the kitchen exhaust fans vent outside (and the clothes dryers too).
Q:How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
What you could do is line inbetween the roof trusses with fibre wool and then fix heavy cardboard sheets over them to keep them in place. Alternatively you could engage the services of a specialist company who will come and strip off your tiles/slates whatever and spray an insulating foam on the inside thus sealing everything in place.
Q:Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
Without important points related to what's between the roof and the ceiling below it, regardless of if it can be a one story or two story constitution; fast fix maybe relative? If for illustration,,,and that i have got to anticipate this, that some insulation exists in an attic, crawl space, and so forth. Then absolutely that must be checked for an "R" ranking, and decide to add or change. Possibly the "venting" variety fixtures usually mounted are either absent of now not strictly realistic. Perhaps historic time approaches like attic exhaust fanatics perhaps employed? What is the constitution of your roof to the point the place under roof vents, soffit and facia exist? Without figuring out the substance of the structure, IE: Block, body, and so forth., you could try to check if correctly the partitions are insulated, and strive exchange in that also. A extra ordinary repair, however absolutely now not rapid can be to have timber blocking and shading where the solar does strike the apartment. Windows within the direction of the solar can be tinted, as they provide no, actual insulating properties. Awnings over windows on the exterior might support in small measure. I are living in primary FL. And happen to very so much experience sun and warmness, however certainly it could actually reason financial budgetary issues. There are numerous methods you could attempt to block the sun, or insulate the apartment, and all is also legitimate, even along side the others, however speedy is, as I mentioned, relative to how much effort and money you have got to put into the effort. Steven Wolf Went back to CEMENT in the original. Is the ROOF cement as well? Is this in fact a "apartment" or apartment constructing? Is the "cement" "POURED" concrete panel building, or is it "block"?
Q:I'm thinking of converting my brick walled corrugated iron shed into a changing room for winter hot tub use. I was advised by a friend that the first thing i should do is insulate the roof using glass fibre insulation (the yellow fluffy stuff in the loft) and a simple Plywood ceiling but im not sure how i would stick it to the existing roof (dimensions 170cm x 147cm). So..... how should i insulate the roof of my future changing room????
What is he using glue on? Buy rolled fiberglass insulation, install it between the rafters and wall studs...paper side in. You can cover the walls and ceiling with drywall, OSB, plywood if you wish. You do realize that insulating your shed isn't going to make it much/any cooler don't you? You will need an air conditioner for that, but the insulation will help keep the AC in.
Q:do i have to have insulation in my roof?
I think about 80% of heat loss during cold weather is through the ceiling and into the attic in an uninsulated home. So if you mean should your attic be insulated...yes. It will pay for itself in fuel savings and make your home more comfortable.
Q:were can i buy material to insulate pans and instructions to install it? I have seen many roofs with this done ,but , the lowe,s and home depots don't have .
metal pan usually refers to a pan that concrete is then poured into. If there is no concrete in it (and a flat membrane roof over that) then its called currogated metal roof. Either way they look the same. Hard to insulate cause they are not meant to insulate. there are some sold with insulation already attached - its a thin floam layer - thats a newer thing but not sure how new. heard of some mobile home mfgs and storage building builders using spray on insulation under the panels. As for aftermarket on insulating- you may be able to have spray on insulation applied from under neath - if the space is open and accessible. it looks and feels like foam, can get a bit messy , but maybe do-able depnding on your application. If its not a open space with maybe drywall under it - you might think about opening up the space in the ceiling and having blown in insulation done (much cheaper then sprayed on). Blown in will insulate just fine but someone would have to look at your application and area cause in some instances - blown in insulation can be bad for high moisture situations. also- if this happens to be in a house - by adding insulation to steel - you might be breaking fire code - something to keep in mind for safety.
Q:Hi, I have got a physics question and was just wondering about it.. Can someone pls tell me how does roof insulation work? how is it effective? How does the insulation changes the heat circulation and transfer inside a house?I know that the insulation prevents radiation from the sun and overheating.. but any more details about radiation, convection and conduction of heat pls?
Well insulation makes a dead air space (air is stagnant). Since the air is not moving the transfer of hot and cold is slowed down considerably. But since you have to create cross ventilation to reduce rotting in wood and the build up of explosive gasses. Its a crap shoot that it even does any good. Radiation is heat so that's covered by the dead air space. Convection is usually not an issue with the cross venting. Also for conduction the insulation should slow it down considerably.
Q:Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?
If you're redoing the roof, a radiant barrier under the sheathing helps. So does insulation. And also, if there is an attic space there, consider putting in a fan to blow the hot air out.

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