flexible ducts GLASSWOOL ROCKWOOL
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Product Material
10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire
Product Feature
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:
1.Size. (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color. (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission. transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance. performance can’t be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept
Product Advantages
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:
1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed
- Q: do I have to blow insulation in the roof of my mobile home if I install foam insulation under a meatle roof?
- Vapor barriers always go on the heated side of walls or ceilings. If you are going to add insulation to your attic and don't want to put in more blown in insulation ( which does have a better R-factor) then purchase unfaced fiberglass insulation to put on top of existing insulation. The thing you need to avoid is called double vapor barriers. Years ago when the first started playing with super insulated houses they would put a poly on the inside and outside of the walls. What happened is any moisture picked up in the walls going from summer to winter would get trapped in the walls and rot them out. No matter what only one vapor barrier on the heated side of the insulation!!! Then your house can breath and release moisture regardless how thick your walls or ceiling.
- Q: the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?
- Sawdust is a definite possibility. It is highly toxic and an appropriate mask should always be worn when sawdust is present. Sawdust is a proven carcinogen. Depending on the type of insulation you used, it may contain chemicals (e.g. formaldehyde) or particulates (fiberglass) that can be irritating to the throat, lungs and/or nasal sinuses. Bottom line: be sure to wear an appropriate mask in the future. They are available at most hardware and all wookworking stores. Best wishes and good luck.
- Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
- mold needs moisture to start/grow. find out why there's moisture and fix that first. Just creating more air flow won't stop the mold from growing and it won't necessarily make the air quality better if mold is growing in the walls. since you said it was roof insulation, (I'm gonna assume you meant attic) check the roof for leaks. I wouldn't think you'd have to get rid of all the insulation but I'd definately get rid of anything moldy. Blown in isulation is fairly cheap to replace. Lowe's sells a mold test kit, not sure how it works but I saw them yesterday when I was in there. Might be worth looking into getting one.
- Q: I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.
- Before working rub talcum powder over skin This keeps the insulation from getting into the skin acts like a barrier.. Then when you get home rinse with cold water when rinsed take as hot a you can stand it shower this opens your pores allowing the insulation to come out then afterward rub baby oil over skin to help with irritation. A benydril allergy pill helps with the itch as well.
- Q: In a house, it looks like an addition, that now is the kitchen , it feels HOT, it doesn't seem to have a very good insulation on the roof at all, the ceiling is already low, so, what can be done on the outside to give it more insulation?, i don't care what it is i just want to give it a GOOD insulation, the roof is flat and to shingles. Any IDEAS? , thanks!
- So there is no access above the ceiling, like a crawl space? If you cannot get above the ceiling to look then it will be difficult to determine, what you have or don't have up there. You may want to consult an insulation company for help. They may have ideas to blow in additional insulation. The spray foam that is on the link left by the other person is a foam sprayed on the roof decking and rafters when you have complete access to them. The person below me brings up another point, can you add any soffet vents to help with air flow?
- Q: do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
- The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)
- Q: The distance between knee wall and attic ceiling is about 6 foot. Could I push a perforated pipe between the rafters?
- That is an option. And there aren't many options.Not much is going to slide easily behind the insulation. I'm thinking --------------------. You are undoubtedly going to snag on roof nails coming through the decking. I don't know if they would hold up but the cardboard tubes wrapping paper comes on might work if you tape 2 together. and flatten and tape the end you will be pushing in first. cut slots with utility knife. I think your idea would work if you can afford the pipe. That's a tough one. When we convert attics we line those cavities with a styrofoam insulation chute end to end until we reach open ventilation-you probably know that by now. Give it a try.
- Q: Why would you not insulate between the rafters in an attic? I see a lot of houses with no insulation on the inside of the roof.
- Why would you want to waste money heating the attic? There are several reasons to put the insulation directly above the living space. Increases the life of your roof, prevents ice damming, saves money, helps avoid moisture issues in the attic and roof sheathing. Is that enough?
- Q: Hi, I have got a physics question and was just wondering about it.. Can someone pls tell me how does roof insulation work? how is it effective? How does the insulation changes the heat circulation and transfer inside a house?I know that the insulation prevents radiation from the sun and overheating.. but any more details about radiation, convection and conduction of heat pls?
- Well insulation makes a dead air space (air is stagnant). Since the air is not moving the transfer of hot and cold is slowed down considerably. But since you have to create cross ventilation to reduce rotting in wood and the build up of explosive gasses. Its a crap shoot that it even does any good. Radiation is heat so that's covered by the dead air space. Convection is usually not an issue with the cross venting. Also for conduction the insulation should slow it down considerably.
- Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
- We don't know what kind of climate you are in - or the age/construction of the dwelling.......but by standards here, 4 degrees heat loss in 4 hours is insignificant... For comparison.....we have a two-story, 1800 sq ft modern home in Ohio: the windows are triple-glazed (but there are a lot of them)......the walls have fiberglass bats under 1 inch cedar siding.......our ceilings are acoustical tile over plasterboard with about 2 feet of blown-in fiberglass insulation above them. We have a new, Energy Star gas furnace . . . . in cold weather it cycles on&off at least 10 times an hour.....I am sure that if we were to turn it off, the temps would drop more than 5 degrees per HOUR......gas bills about $250 a month in winter. You are fortunate to have so little heat loss in yours.......while the "sawdust looking" insulation doesn't sound very cutting-edge, I can't imagine anything would reduce the heat loss and be cost-effective. If buildings didn't cool-off in cold weather, we'd just heat rocks in the sun and bring them inside !!!!!!!
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flexible ducts GLASSWOOL ROCKWOOL
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
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