Epdm Rubber Roofing Insulation Rock Wool Blanket for Roofing Ceiling Wall

Epdm Rubber Roofing Insulation Rock Wool Blanket for Roofing Ceiling Wall System 1

Epdm Rubber Roofing Insulation Rock Wool Blanket for Roofing Ceiling Wall

Ref Price:: $5.00 - 10.00 / m.t.

Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 1000000000 m.t./month

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Rock Wool Blanket For Rooing Ceiling Wall

1.Structure of Rock Wool Blanket For Rooing Ceiling Wall：

Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.

The Manufacturing Process

Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes

2.Main Features of Rock Wool Blanket For Rooing Ceiling Wall：

● FEATURES

Thermal Insulation

Fire Safety

Acoustic Control

No Corrosion

Environmental friendly

Moisture Resistance

Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction

Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.

Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.

Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The

Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800℃.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675℃.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.

3. Rock Wool Blanket For Rooing Ceiling Wall Images

Rock Wool Blanket For Rooing Ceiling Wall

4. Rock Wool Blanket For Rooing Ceiling Wall Specification

ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Rock wool PIPE

Standard Size

DIA Thickness (mm)

inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150

1/2’’ 22 ● ● ●

3/4’’ 27 ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

1’’ 34 ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

1-1/4’’ 43 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

1-1/2’’ 48 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

2’’ 60 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

2-1/2’’ 76 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

3’’ 89 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

3-1/2’’ 108 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

4’’ 114 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

5’’ 140 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

6’’ 169 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

8’’ 219 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

10’’ 273 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

12’’ 325 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

14’’ 356 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

15’’ 381 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

16’’ 406 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

18’’ 456 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

19’’ 483 ● ● ● ● ● ●

20’’ 508 ● ● ● ● ● ●

22’’ 558 ● ● ● ● ●

24’’ 610 ● ● ● ● ●

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

① What’s the mainly material for rock wool？

Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,

②What’s the mainly type for rock wool？

rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.

③How you control the quality?

During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.

Q: How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?: The US Dept of Energy provides online calculators to answer your question based on your zip code.

Q: I'm thinking of converting my brick walled corrugated iron shed into a changing room for winter hot tub use. I was advised by a friend that the first thing i should do is insulate the roof using glass fibre insulation (the yellow fluffy stuff in the loft) and a simple Plywood ceiling but im not sure how i would stick it to the existing roof (dimensions 170cm x 147cm). So..... how should i insulate the roof of my future changing room????: If the roof has joists, which I imagine it would, you would put the bats of insulation into those spaces... these can then be stapled into place or if that isn't possible, you can run a wire between the joists to hold the bats in place. If using faced insulation be sure to put the paper side towards the warm area (inside) to prevent condensation.

Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.: You can remove it, but why not replace it with rolled insulation? I'm sure you're local State Board of Health would disaprove of not having your tenant's homes properly insulated. You could get into a lot of legal trouble if you do not keep you apartment building properly maintained.

Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.: The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!

Q: I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.: I'm not sure if your questioning what to do before or after. A lot of experience contractors that work with insulation use generous amounts of baby powder on their skin before covering up prior to work. The baby powder fills up the pores keeping the insulation out. Insulation can travel through cotton clothing, but it is better than nothing. After the work is done wash off with cold water. The cold water closes the pores in your skin, while rinsing off the bulk of the insulation on your skin. Then use any temperature you like to complete the process.

Q: In a house, it looks like an addition, that now is the kitchen , it feels HOT, it doesn't seem to have a very good insulation on the roof at all, the ceiling is already low, so, what can be done on the outside to give it more insulation?, i don't care what it is i just want to give it a GOOD insulation, the roof is flat and to shingles. Any IDEAS? , thanks!: Sorry but there isn't enough info to give a good answer...is there space between the ceiling and the roof to add insulation...there may be enough insulation but no ventilation in the area directly under the roof (atic area) If there is not enough air flow in this area the temperature will skyrocket thus heat the kitchen AND the shingles will deteriorate very quickly.If you still need to add insulation the best way is to put sloped roof (if possible)and add insulation in the space created or you can use foam insulation and re roof ..make sure you seal between the wall system and new insulation and whatever method make sure to allow air to flow under the roof (both inflow and outflow)

Q: How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?: Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.

Q: I'd like to put a train set in my loft / attic, so to avoid it being cold in there during the winter I'm considering having no insulation in the floor of it where one usually would, thus allowing the heat to rise into the loft. Then, insulate the roof between the rafters instead. Is this just as good at keeping the heating costs down?: only if you do it right.do you have plenty of head room if so drop the ceiling down and super insulate two feet or more and don't forget to leave air space between roof and top of insulation or your roofing boards will rot very quickly.

Q: we have liq. ammonia storage tank (capacity 40000 ton)having double wall & suspended deck.liq. NH3 stored at temp -33 degree cent. insulation (form ) being provided to annular space (wall ) but not on top roof . can you explain for exact reason.with regardsanvar shaikh: Insulation is less necessary on the roof. The ammonia is mostly a liquid, and a liquid would absorb heat rapidly from tank walls. Above the liquid is vapor, and vapor absorb heat much less rapidly than liquid does, so insulation is less important there.

Q: We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a &quot;living in condition&quot; with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a &quot;spray-on&quot;insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :): hope this helps. With more air movement there will not be so much condensation. it is a matter of having an inlet for air or a fan and then an outlet for air. There are small extractor fans i have one for my bathroom, but unsure of the cost.

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