• Double Loading Series Polished Porcelain Tile  Brown Color ZSL06084Z/G System 1
  • Double Loading Series Polished Porcelain Tile  Brown Color ZSL06084Z/G System 2
  • Double Loading Series Polished Porcelain Tile  Brown Color ZSL06084Z/G System 3
Double Loading Series Polished Porcelain Tile  Brown Color ZSL06084Z/G

Double Loading Series Polished Porcelain Tile Brown Color ZSL06084Z/G

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Serie Brown Color ZSL06084Z/G is one of the most popular color of double loading Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. This kind of tiles could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 880 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1267.2m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 


 

Double Loading Series Polished Porcelain Tile  Brown Color ZSL06084Z/G

Double Loading Series Polished Porcelain Tile  Brown Color ZSL06084Z/G


 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1267.2  m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 


Q: I recently put in a wood stove. It was professionally installed and certified to meet fire regulations. I don‘t know anything really about the install just that it doesn‘t require any r value underneath it. It just requires a pad for embers. There was a long waiting list to get it installed but an opening came up and we got it installed sooner than we planned. So we didn‘t get the tiling done. Currently it is sitting on a base made with 2x6s spaced 6 apart covered with 3/4 plywood and a sheet of durock cement board attached with durock screws and all seems taped with durock tape and covered with durock cement plaster. I want to finish it with tile. However, the stove is too heavy for us to lift. Its a pedestal woodstove so would it look okay tile up to the pedestal? If so how much space should I leave against the pedestal? What should I put in the gap? High-heat caulking? I‘m very new to this so any advice is welcomed. Thanks!
You will be better off if you remove the stove and tile. See if they installers can come back out and set it aside , be sure to make where the feet set first, measure and write down so that the feet doesn't sit on a joint . It will make to job make better,
Q: I have a few small pits (about 1/16 in diameter, very shallow into the tile) that have developed in some old ceramic tile in my foyer (it may be from some salt that was tracked into the foyer over the winter). Is there a good way to repair it?
I would try 'tile and grout sealer. These products are easy to apply and once dried are very hard. Go to your home supply store and look at a few different types and see what would work best for you application. Most people don't understand that tile needs to be sealed and re-sealed every year or two, especially in high traffic areas and where there will be a lot of dirt or water track across them.
Q: my tiles are filthy....theres white dust every where and I guess what ever they used to patch the wall or something on the floor....I swept and mopped but it still looks horrible.
tile lab makes a heavy duty cleaner and stripper for tiles you can try that.
Q: MyMy bathroom. which is about 75 square feet has a carpet and I want to change it to tile. The only utility is a toilet.How do I handle the toilet? If I use ceramic tile, does the toilet sit on the ceramic tile and does that cause a problem with breaking the tile?What do you recommend that is practical, easy to install, and still functional?
Yes you ll have to pull the stool up and depending on what you sub flooring is now will depend how you treat the stool and wax ring and flange later. There isn t a stock answer with the info you gave. Some times the flange is raised enough to accommodate raising the floor with tile and a 1/2 cement board( if needed). If the flooring is on a slab them the tile will go right up to the flange and stool set atop with a normal or extra thick ring. In 20+ years I ve never had a tile crack under a stool. As long as there is the correct amount of thin set under the tile and any subflooring you add is properly put down,it ll be fine. Stools don t have to be tight tight bolted down just firmly snugged up . Almost ( almost ) any tile will work in a bathroom situation , but get a slip resistant type, one with at least a class III rating is my recommendation Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: what causes lippage on a granite floor? i had someone install granite tiles in my bedroom and the lippage isn‘t too bad i must say but 2 or 3 tiles do have A LOT of lippage...was wondering why that would be? thanks so much in advance!
Hey BigBadShawn, I worked for years in flooring at The Home Depot and I got to see this question come up quite a bit from my customers. Natural stone tiles like granite can be tricky to keep, and lippage can come from various sources. Depending on what is underneath it as well as how the tiles are installed will determine what is the exact cause of the lippage. Usually I've seen with older houses with wood subfloors that prep work wasn't addressed so that over time as the floor joists/subfloor expands, contracts, and settles tiles of any substrate can pop up or create small lippages. The professional way to installed your floor was (hopefully) by the builder using a tile backerboard and/or securing the subfloor securely before laying down the tiles. Also, if the tiles have very thin to no grout lines, it is possible that the events of the floor joists settling makes little room for the tiles to go anywhere but up. With a high-quality flexible mortar, that shouldn't of been an issue. If you noticed a progression over time with your tiles, I'd say you most likely have a wood subfloor on your hands. If it was concrete, it could be a matter of improper installation, moisture, or unevenness of the surface itself that gave it the lippage you see now. Hope this helps you out, aboveaveragejoe
Q: My house is 55 years old. They had vinyl floring in the bathroom. We wanted to replce the flooring but when we hauled up the vinyl, theres 2inch ceremic tiles underneath. I think the vinyl was glued down because the tiles are a mess. We bought some vinyl flooring to put back down. Whats the best way to do this? We were going to but 1/4 round but now the floors are tile underenath, and the walls are tile as well so we can‘t nail it in.
The best way to go about this would be to remove the old ceramic tile and start with a fresh clean surface. I know you are thinking so much work. It wont be that bad when you get a few of the ceramic tiles out use a hammer and a flat bar and basically knock them out you will be surprised how quickly they will come up. When this is complete you must get all the thinset from the tiles off or at least no big clumps left on the floor. When your surface is clean apply the thickness you need to your floor to keep the same height but remember you will be appling quarter inch lueon board with the dark side up this is also the smooth side if you another type of board it may make the surface look rough. Use screws to fasten down and make sure you fasten the edges well where the lueon board may meet. this will keep lines out of your vinyle floor or even from it not staying adhered properly. When you are done clean your surface for all debris and begin to lay your flooring. Always use a good adhesive. if you are using 1ft. squares use a rubber mallet to set each tile if you are using a one piece flooring use a wheighted roller to be sure every thing is adhering and start in one corner or one side and roll out slowly taking your time. If you have a concrete floor use all glue or if you have acess to a hilti gun nail the entire sub flooring down. When the entire floor is complete if you must walk on it be carefull not to twist you feet as you walk or lay some card board down. you can clean any glue off the surface with mineral spirits. On the outside perimeter you may want to install some quarter round to give your floor a finished look. if you cant nail glue it with liquid nails (glue) and caulk in all gaps. around tour tub you may want to caulk in also with a siliconized caulking. There plenty of colors of caulking if you are not looking for white. Also one last thing paint does not stick to silicone so if you have any areas that may require painting to do not use silicone.
Q: I tiled my fireplace and mixed the grout according to the right measurements. now a whole section of it is crumbling... can someone tell me why this is and what to do - thank you
Even if you mixed it right there s a couple things. Dirt in the joints and it didn t adhere, Loose tiles ,( knock on them w/ your knuckles to hear if they sound hollow, to much water w/ washing grout down. This are a few. Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar and check my qualifications PS You didn t say exactly wher, both I had a thought I forgot ..If its on the inside of the tile on the legs and header part , this is common and caused by the expansion and contraction of the fire chamber. It thats it thers a couple ways to go about fixing it. Caulking w/ a matching colored sanded grout or digging it out and putting in a special meatl thats normally called a Schulter Metal. It s L shaped and part of its slid behind the tile andglued in and some covers the tile edge. Comes in many colors and readily available at tile places. GL
Q: THis will be done in the powder room. Also, I am planning not to use backerboard because the tiles will be 9 x 12
I recently tiled a room of approximately the same size. Not including the cost of the tile, it cost about $150.00. I used quick set, which costs about $40 per tub. One tub, if used properly, should be enough. If the floor on which you are installing the tile is not concrete, you should stronly consider using the backing board. This will help reduce the chances of the grout, and tile from cracking. If installed on a wooden (plywood) floor, the floor can flex, resulting in cracking of the tile and grout.
Q: What‘s the difference between tile mastic tile adhesive? I was told to paint the wall w/paint primer first then use tile adhesive rather than tile mastic to apply tiles on damaged green board around my jaccuzzi tub for a quick fix. The green paper peeled off when removing the old tile exposing the brown cardboard stuff.
Mastic Tile Adhesive
Q: We want to pull out our carpeting and use self stick linoleum tiles. What do we need to know?
Consider the color options, cost per tile and the conditions that the tile was designed for. Some tiles have adhesive that will work in wet environments, like the bathroom or kitchen while others do not hold up as well. Figure out the rough area of the floor you want to cover and buy about 1/4 more. When you buy, be sure to get tiles from the same manufacturers batch to ensure that the tile color is consistent. This is why you want to have some extra for future repairs too. If the floor is uneven you will need to level it by applying a floor leveling patch - it's kind of like putty or spackle for your floor. Instructions for installing the tiles will be included with them and are pretty straight forward. Just make sure you set your first row so that it is straight and even so the rest will be too. The edges take the longest but are actually not too bad. Tiles can be cut with a utility knife.

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