Digital glazd full polished tiles porcelain looks like marble prices 8016

Digital glazd full polished tiles porcelain looks like marble prices 8016

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1076 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Quick Details

Type:	Tiles	Place of Origin:	Fujian China (Mainland)	Brand Name:	SLD
Model Number:	8016	Size:	600 x 600mm,800 x 800mm	Material:	Porcelain Tiles
Usage:	Interior Tiles	Function:	Acid-Resistant,Antibacterial,Heat Insulation,Non-Slip,Firebrick,Wear-Resistant	Surface Treatment:	Glazed Tiles
Feature:	Glazed Metallic Tiles	Color Family:	Blacks,Blues,Browns / Tans,Grays,Oranges,Purples / Lavenders,Reds / Pinks,Whites,Yellows / Golds	Tile Type:	Floor Tiles
color:	polished	thickness:	9.8mm	carton weight:	30KGS
packing:	carton with pallet with fumigation	payment terms2:	L/C at sight	payment terms1:	30% deposit,balance against the copy of BL
surface color:	polished	finished:	3d printing	Scope:	bathroom floor,kitchen floor ,living room
design:	we can do any design accord to customer need

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Carton with pallet 4pcs/ctn,30kgs 1.44m2/ctn 1900ctn/TEU about 1296SQM
Delivery Detail:	20 days

Specifications

1.Size: 600 x 600 mm
2.Thickness: 9.8 mm
3.W/A: E<0.5%
4.Picking: 4pcs/ctn

Inkjet Full Polished Glazed Ceramic Tile tiling

1. Product description:

Model No.:	8016
Tile type:	Full polised galzed porcelain tile
Material:	porcelain
Size(MM) :	600x600mm
Water Absorption:	<0.5%
Color:	Available in all designs and colors
Usage:	Used in floor
Payment:	T/T or L/C at sight
Packing:	Packing: 4pcs/ 1.44M²/ 20KGS/CTN 900ctns/ 1296SQM/ 20GP with pallet
Surface treatment:	Glazed or polished surface according to difference material
Remark:	All kind of designs can be produced according to our product list

3. Product features:

1) Professional 3D inkjet floor tiles manufacturer
2) Anti-acid and anti-alkali
3) Durable
4) Pollution free
5) Easy to clean, easy to pave
6) Customize any design you like.
7) The most competitive price.

8) Easy to install, anti-dust

4. Packing list

Sizes (mm)	PCS/CTN	SQM/CTN	KGS/CTN	CTN/CONT	KGS/CONT	SQM/20GP
600x600x9.8mm	4	1.44	30	900	27000	1296
800x800x9.8mm	3	1.92	43	630	27090	1209.6

Q: we had our bathroom redone, it looks great but the guy that did it got some grout on one of the decorative tiles, where it shouldn‘t be. Is there a way to get the grout off ?: It will depend on the skill of your personal observe. If you think it will look better you may try. After all it your house and the choice is yours. How it will look better you think and if necessary reinstall the tiles.

Q: HiIs there an adhesive that can be used to spot repair Vinylfloor tiles 18x18 on a basment floor?: I definitely think that it is. A basement does not have to be as decked out as the rest of the house although it can be. There are really nice vinyls now a days that you can choose from so take your time and research well before you purchase. You will be glad that you didn't spend an arm and a leg and still got something nice. Hope this helps and God Bless!

Q: The tile is one week old. I have had the company pull tiles, regrout and patch. I have new cracks every day. Can I reasonable ask them to start over?: Could be that the base is improperlyy installed to. The cement board may not be screwed down right. Or... what is under that may not be a good base. If you have a floor that is settling or unlevel ..... that subfloor may not be good for ceramic tile.

Q: My bf and I are removing the tiles from the bathroom wall with a chisel and hammer; however, we live in an apartment building, so I was wondering if there‘s an easier way to remove the tiles by softening the grout around them.: Woe ! do you have permission from your landlord! If you do.. I think that is the only way to do it . Allot of hard work. I may be wrong..it would be nice to see if there is a way. I will check back: for the answer.:)

Q: Can I leave them alone and simply go over them w/ mud and ceramic tile . I really don‘t want to open the hazmat can of worms by getting the tiles tested.The tiles look like that mutfti pattern common in office buildings and schools and secured w/ a mastic.Thanks: If the tiles are 9x9, they are VA, vinyl asbestos. If the tiles are 12x12, they are VCT, vinyl composite, and the same installation rules apply to both types. Most quality latex modified thin set motars will set over the VA and VCT with no problem, as long as the VA or VCT are bonded securely to the concrete slab. Use TEC Superflex or Mapei Ultraflex 3, which have more portland cement and latex for better bonding. Prior to installation of your porcelain or ceramic, please thoroughly wash the VA or VCT tile with a strong stripper to remove any oils or waxes that might interfere with the mortar bonding. Then, rinse the tile with clean water. You will not have any hazardous waste problems, since you have not disturbed the VA tile and have encapsulated them permanently.

Q: Can ceramic tile be applied over my existing formica counter tops? They are in good shape, just ugly. They are not molded, but the formica is not loose anywhere and would probably be hard to remove. Anyone have any experience with this sort of project?: I would opt to remove the old counter top and replace it. You can prepare the surface for tile but those grout lines are what bug me they get dirty because food and debris gets caught and its hard to clean them nothing like a smooth surface.

Q: Staining and grout removal aside, are there other disadvantages to using natural stone tile for bathtubs?: For the outside sounds really neat... and if inside we are talking well drained sand floors with slope to outside(remember New Orleans... it was the levees designed to keep city dry that flooded it!) Expense would be another good reason besides you do know how hard ring around the tub is on vinyl/fibercase/porcelin tubs NOW imagine porous rock... But as cost no object allow larger size(for rock sides/bottom) build water tight container(well supported- no joke intended) with drain/ overflow and then place rocks and grout(optional) away... you are doing this ground level or then ALSO consider weight and add new truss supports etc. Will this new tub be inspected by city/county? They may have something to say... or if you have plans to ever sell... Looking better and better outside? Concrete pond ! Yeah I know,,,

Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?: Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.

Q: We want to put the same sticky tile over the existing tile just stagger them. Will that be unstable or should we remove the old ones...which seems like work lol: As long as the existing tile is not cracked, has missing chips, free from grease and dirt and has been vacuumed you won't have a problem putting new tile over it. Also you want to make sure the existing tile is not loose in spots. Yeah, a few new tiles might lose their grip and come up.....in about forty years. We did the same in 1974. I am now in the process of a remodel and a few of them came loose. Must have been a bad batch of tiles! Lol. You'll be fine.

Q: are linulium tiles long lasting? how can I replace.: Linoleum tiles will last a long time if they are put down properly. You can put over the old if there are no bad spots in them. If you'd rather pull the old up, its a long process. Make sure the floor is smooth before you put the new tile down. Use the proper glue, ask a hardware employee where your getting the tile what kind you should use. Good Luck.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit