• Cast Resin Transformers from SGB System 1
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Cast Resin Transformers from SGB

Cast Resin Transformers from SGB

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Why cast resin transformers made by us?


The range of SGB-SMIT cast resin transformers includes power ratings up to 25 MVA and rated

insulation voltages up to 36 kV as well as converter, distribution and special transformers. With its

over 30 years of experience in the construction of cast resin transformers, SGB-SMIT‘s scope of

special expertise is one of the largest world-wide, a fact which is reflected by the extremely high

quality level such as our MTBF (mean time between failures) of over 2,400 years.

Thanks to their special design, SGB-SMIT cast resin transformers offer a range of features which, on

the one hand, distinguish them from other cast resin transformers in terms of technology and, on the

other hand, make them a highly reliable and extremely safe solution.



The operative benefits for you, our customer, are the following:

• Thanks to the multi-layer winding principle, high surge voltages and switching

voltages are handled safely.

• Cooling ducts provide thermal reserves and allow for overload.

• The use of glass-fibre reinforced plastics (GFK) in the encapsulated windings

provides resistance to temperature shocks.

• Long service lives are ensured.



With production starting in the late 1970‘s, SGB-SMIT were one of the first manufacturers of cast

resin transformers, thus we are able to offer our customers the benefit of our extensive experience

and know how. This extraordinary know-how is reflected by a especially high quality score, e.g. an

MTBF of over 2,400 years.

It goes without saying that SGB-SMIT cast resin transformers meet all the established

quality conditions: Fire classification F1 • Environmental class E2 • Climate classification C2

And as a matter of course, the product sector Cast-Resin Transformers at SGB-SMIT has been

certified according to ISO 9001 and ISO 14001.

The extremely high quality of SGB-SMIT cast resin transformers has a name: Uni|Q.

Uni|Q is synonymous with the special quality and test features which make our cast resin

transformers so unique:

• Several Decades of Experience

· Comprehensive operating experience world-wide including international production sites

· First-class international references in all sectors

· Ample know-how and long-term experience in the field of onshore wind power plants

including special cooling systems: Jet System

· Transformer system tailored to open sea conditions for offshore wind power plants with many

years of operating experience: Safe-System

· Optimum solutions for all industrial applications with extreme climate conditions – no matter

whether extremely hot or cold: All Climate Safe System

• Unique design

· The multi-layer winding is electrically the best and most reliable option. Thus, almost all oil

distribution transformer manufacturers apply this principle. Millions of these have been

securing the energy supply in many countries for several decades world-wide. SGB-SMIT is the

only manufacturer of cast resin transformers who uses this principle!

• Computerised monitoring of the production process

· Based on a precise analysis according to

automotive standards, all relevant production

parameters of each transformer are recorded

continuously and compared online to the

set-point values. The next production step

only follows if everything is found to be correct.

· This system makes it possible to achieve a

uniform level of quality over large production

quantities at all locations of the SGB-SMIT

Group on an international basis



Q: I am assuming that the car is running when the items are being used.
if the auto is running the battery will not as you say run down.
Q: Garbage disposal is wired into open electrical outlet down thru basement. Dryer is not vented outside, which is in the basement also, right next to this outlet. There is excessive lint from the dryer all over this open outlet that doesnt have a cover and the live electrical big thick white wire that you wire a house with is split down the middle then the raw metal part is inserted into each side of the outlet for the garbage disposal. If I pull this out to disconnect it will it spark? Shock me? Catch on fire? I want to do this because I am afraid it is going to catch on fire from all the lint. Is that possible also?I rent and I know the dryer should be vented, however it is all glass block windows and landlord has yet to fix it so please dont tell me to vent the dryer. thanks
leave all repairs to the landlord/ownerhe will blame you if something goes wrong during or after you touch something electrical.if landlord wont address problems in a timely manner than move somewhere else if possible.if you are concerned with the dust/lint buildup on the electrical socket then get a can of compressed air [ normally used to clear dust/lint from electronic equipment ] and use it to clear the socket without touching itbest to where safety glasses and dustmask while using the compressed air,will no doubt make a cloud of dust in the area that will take a few minutes to settle,but at least you will feel saferas far as venting the dryer,,they make water traps that you can vent the dryer into if there is no duct to the outside.buy one from home depot or similar store and follow the instructions.will reduce but not eliminate the dust and lint coming from the unvented dryer.dan
Q: I have all my electrical equipment hooked up to 1 HDTV, that is sky, ps3 and computer. Today i noticed that when i change the input mode while booting my computer there is an option next to RGB. This option is either PC or DTV depending on which one i select, what is this? and also which is better?
The two choices are PC Personal Computer or DTV Digital TV. Depending on what you're doing will determine the mode of operation. When in TV mode you use the TV controls to set the width and aspect ration of the display. When you're using the PC the graphics card will normally set the width and aspect ration. Ever notice that when you change resolution on a normal PC monitor that 640X480 uses just as much screen as when it's set to 1072X768. The graphics card adjusts the size. DTV mode will have the internal controls in your TV controlling the size and PC will have the graphics card in the PC controlling it. As I'm writing this another possibility came to mind. You may have an ATSC tuner (digital tuner) built into your HDTV. The TV may simply be asking you which source you want it to look at. In other words do you want to continue watching TV using the internal tuner or switch to looking at the PC information that is now available. Your best bet is to pick up the owners manual and read the section that tells you about hooking up your computer to the monitor. I'm sure that will explain what your asking for.
Q: Hi,My friend said i need a surge protector for all my electrical equipment otherwise they could mess up?
Yes if you have expensive electronics. But using a power strip can minimize damage.
Q: I have just recently started getting electric shocks at random times when working with my tank. The first time it happened i was wearing a rubber glove (which i thought would block electricity in the first place) i put my hand in the sump and it tore through the glove and shocked my whole arm. The next day i was using the net in the tank itself and got a big shock, then the same thing happend to my brother, my girlfriend and my friend all at different random times. It feels like one of those trick handshake or trick lighters that people have but it hurts way more. Basically the shock runs through my arm and into my chest, leaving my arm numb.I have a 72 gallon bowfront saltwater set up with live rock, about 15 fish, the whole deal. I have the coralife 260 watt compact fluorescent light hood with moon lights attatched with plastic legs on top of the aquarium over the glass canopy. I have an 850 gph pump in the sump, a 300 watt heater in the pump and a protein skimmer in the sump.
Yikes! Your problem is actually not that uncommon, but certainly unpleasant none the less. It's definitely attributed to faulty electrical equipment. Any equipment that's submerged under water could be the culprit, so I would narrow it down to the pump, heater, or skimmer. You can test for stray voltage using a voltage tester or volt meter set to read AC voltage (VAC) by putting one lead on a known ground and the other in the tank water. To further isolate the problem, plug in each piece of electrical equipment one at a time while testing for voltage. Once you've determined which equipment is faulty, simply replace it. In the mean time, you may also want to install an Ultra-Ground Titanium Probe in your sump. Please note that I am not an electrician, just a fellow hobbyist, so if you are uncomfortable performing any of the above steps, I would strongly encourage you to have a certified electrician look at your problem. Stray voltage not only harms you, but it may harm the fish too. It has been attributed to fish health problems like lateral line disease, fin erosion, and gill deterioration. In the mean time, be sure to turn off all electrical equipment before working inside the tank. Regards
Q: HiCan someone tell me what the difference is betweena) turning my TV (or whatever) off on the setb) turning it off at the switch on the wallc) unplugging itWhat I'm reading seems to suggest that only unplugging it really means its off - is that true?
When you turn off modern Tvs from the remote, it will go to standby mode, there's still electricity on the circuit enough for the memory to remember your settings, like volume, time, the channel you've last watch before turning it off. When you turn off the switch from the wall or unplugging it, the Tv is now completely disconnected from the power source. You may loose personal settings, and when you plug it back on then it may function in the default settings. Leaving it plugged has advantages but surge, lighting, sudden voltage changes may damage it. So when you'll be out for days then unplug it from the AC outlet to play safe.
Q: How do I calculate (using mathematical equations) the load of my equipment to support and find the correct alternator and battery for my vehicle? I'm looking for an in-depth equation that explains what I have to find from the equipment specifications to the mathematical part evolved. I want to make the right choice for my vehicle without any word of some salesman to sell me a product with little to knowledge of the product they are selling.
Power (watts) Amps x volts and Voltage Amps x Resistance are the two basic formulas
Q: If a 3 phase motor is driving a load say a gear box, compressor, or fan (Non Electrical piece of equipment) Does the load in this case gear box, compressor, or fan required a safety ground? The motor has its own safety ground
If there is no electrical connections to them then grounding is optional.
Q: I am doing some work and i just couldn't remember the piece of equipment, that hospitals use to bring people back to life by using an electric shockThey have Pads on them and are often used in films.Thankyou in advance,Babyx
AED : automatic external defibrillator
Q: 1 artificial permanent 2 electromagnetic3 natural
I suppose they all do; Electromagnets are probably the most useful as they can be switched on and off instantaneously. They are used in motors, loudspeakers, relays, televisions etc. artificial permanent magnets can also be found in electric motors, loudspeakers, reed switches etc. As far as i can think natural magnets don't have many applications. but they could be used to make loudspeakers, motors and to operate reed switches for sure. So in short, they all have several applications in electrical equipment. Sorry not to be of more help.

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