Roofing Insulation Foam Diy - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102

Roofing Insulation Foam Diy - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102 System 1

Roofing Insulation Foam Diy - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1200 m²

Supply Capability:: 12000 m²/month

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Aluminum Foil Bubble Heat Insulation

Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Aluminum foil and bubble is the better product in the environmental protection, thermal insulation thermal insulation. The outermost PET has good abrasion resistance and high strength tear resistance. The bubble between the aluminum foil not only has a strong moisture, resistance oxygen, sound insulation, drop noise function, aluminum foil bubble also has very good reflective inverse heat, blocking ultraviolet.

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

It is the high quality heat insulating and the invincible opponent of anti- condensation. The low and stable coefficient of heat conduction has good isolation effect.

The product has many advantages, such as light weight, heat insulation, shock absorption, sound absorption and noise reduction;

The product is easy to install and process and it also waterproof, seepage control, flame retardant.

The product also has many features, such as heat resistance, low temperature resistance, chemical resistance, ageing resistance etc.

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102

Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

STRUCTURE	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL	MPET /BUBBLE/MPET	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL
THICKNESS	1-4mm	8mm	6.5mm	4mm	4mm
WEIGHT	120GSM	240GSM	180GSM	120GSM	445GSM
BUBBLE SIZE	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM
WIDTH	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)
THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY	0.034w/mo	0.032 w/mo	0.032w/mo	0.034w/mo	5.87m2.k/w
REFLECTIVITY	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil bubble insulation，is one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil composite insulation bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 100,000 square meters foil insulation are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

④What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

Q: the noise when it rains is very loud. can I place an insulation material under the polycarbonate roof to reduce noise? Thanks: Sure, depending on the roof space anyway.

Q: do i have to have insulation in my roof?: you should have insulation on the attic. ot should be right against the occupied ceilings. The attic cavity needs to be for the most part ventilated. That is a common building approach. Ive seen insulated sheets of plywood the roof shingles are nail to. You can call that roof insulator. You still better off with the common industry approach. Make sure you have an attic fan to level the attic temperature to the outside.

Q: How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?: 323 square feet per cubic mile.

Q: I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.: Nope. The DOW rigid insulation is an R-5/inch. So 4 inches gets you an R-20. Sorry.

Q: My boyfriend has just moved into a flat in a newly converted house. He's up in the loft, and has just discovered that the roof isn't insulated.Does the landlord have a legal obligation to insulate the roof?: To comply with UK building regulations all lofts must be insulated... Q22. How much loft insulation do I need? A22. To meet current Building Regulations you need 270mm of mineral wool insulation. 100mm between the ceiling joists and 170mm laid over the joists.

Q: if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?: remember the front of your house is the back of your neighbors house across the street when looking at the roof

Q: How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?: Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.

Q: I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.: BLOWN BY ALL MEANS!!! SOME PLACES WILL EVEN LEND YOU A MACHINE TO BLOW IT WITH IF YOU BUY THE INSULATION FROM THEM.BAT TYPE INSULATION IS OLD SCHOOL!

Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (&gt;15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2&quot; thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3&quot; galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?: The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.

Q: I am thinking about getting cavity wall and roof insulation at the moment.But since summer is approaching, I fear that getting the insulation will mean that the house will be very hot at night. (During day time the house will accumulate heat from the sun, and the heat cannot escape).I also fear that the ventilation will be bad and the air in the house will not be as fresh.Any advice please?: Insulation works to keep a home cooler in summer as well as warmer in winter. And the warm months generally mean better conditions for the installation because of less potential moisture, which sometimes forms in uninsulated homes in the freezing cold, being trapped in ceiling and wall cavities. To have your ceiling insulation function properly, attic ventilation is required. This is approx. 1 sq. ft./ clear ventilation to 300 sq. ft. of attic space. More is better than less. You will find your home cooler. Insulation on its own does not change ventilation. This is an air/vapor barrier situation which also should be considered when insulating.

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