Aluminium Foil Roofing Insulation Bubble for Heat and Cold
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 5000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:
The material provides excellent insulation: reflects up to 97% of radiant energy in addition to resisting other types of heat transfer from conduction,convection,and radiation.The side of metalized PET/Alu forms an effective barrier against moisture,air currents and vapors.It is economical solution in many field.
Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:
Contains layers of fire ratardant bubble and air bubble laminated with both side pure aluminium foil.
Mainly by using thereflection principle of aluminum foil.
Bubble foil provides neat appearance, and reflects up to 97% heat radiant from heat source such as sun.
It provides resistance against moisture,air currents and vapors
It canresistants to punctures, tears and cracking.
Lightweight and non-taxic,there is no need to handle and install with special equipment.
Eco-friendly .
Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:
Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;
Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;
Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;
Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on
Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble
Pictures and Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble
STRUCTURE | ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL | ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL | ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL | MPET /BUBBLE/MPET | ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL |
THICKNESS | 1-4mm | 8mm | 6.5mm | 4mm | 4mm |
WEIGHT | 120GSM | 240GSM | 180GSM | 120GSM | 445GSM |
BUBBLE SIZE | 4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER | 2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER | 4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER | 4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER | 2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM |
WIDTH | 1.2m (MAX 1.5m) | 1.2m (MAX 1.5m) | 1.2m (MAX 1.5m) | 1.2m (MAX 1.5m) | 1.2m (MAX 1.5m) |
THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY | 0.034w/mo | 0.032 w/mo | 0.032w/mo | 0.034w/mo | 5.87m2.k/w |
REFLECTIVITY | 96-97% | 96-97% | 96-97% | 96-97% | 96-97% |
FAQ
We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：
How to guarantee the quality of the products？
We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.
How long can we receive the product after purchase?
In the purchase of product within 10 working days, we will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.
What is the storage condition?
The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.
- Q: I am really confused about this science stuff! Sustainability is terrible xP
- i'm designing a house it quite is a retangle on the 1st floor with an L shape on the 2d and installation into that L i choose to have a greenhouse related. My plan is to apply 2x10 or 2x12s for my floor joist that way i can insulate the ceiling of the room it is under that and the two partitions that are related to the greenhouse. no longer a lot to learn any warmth from it,yet to have plant life. If i choose to get any image voltaic benefit illl in simple terms open the door to the domicile
- Q: I need to call around and find a contractor to repair my roof. I thought it might be a good idea to at least have the name of this type of roofing correct so I don't sound like too much of a mark. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
- Most typically, it's a sprayed polyurethane foam system. Simple repairs can be made with a sealant, unless you need a section replaced.
- Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
- Good question and I do not know the answers. For the fire issue, call your local fire department and chat them up. Then call your building inspector and talk with him. If he's been around awhile he may have seen it done before and have some information on how it has worked out or what are must do's.
- Q: Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?
- Closed cell spray foam applied to the inside of your roof sheathing will work just fine. It needs to be installed by a specialty contractor. Good Luck
- Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
- Is the attic floor completely uninsulated now? You need a single layer of vapor barrier between the living space and the attic space. This is often done with faced insulation rolls. A vapor barrier between the living space ceiling and your new insulation may be enough all by itself to prevent the condensation from forming. If there's existing insulation, you'll have to pull some up to check for a vapor barrier. If there's already a vapor barrier, you can add unfaced insulation. Never put in two vapor barriers with insulation between them.
- Q: what's the best insulation for ceilling for house with semi flat roof?
- The pitch of your roof has nothing to do with the kind of insulation you should use. I recommend a fiberglass insulation that is at least 6 inches thick, the more you put in the better.
- Q: I'd like to put a train set in my loft / attic, so to avoid it being cold in there during the winter I'm considering having no insulation in the floor of it where one usually would, thus allowing the heat to rise into the loft. Then, insulate the roof between the rafters instead. Is this just as good at keeping the heating costs down?
- It will provide some insulation but not as much as you can get by insulating the attic in the normal way. Typically you use very thick batts or blown insulation that can be 12 to 18 inches thick. If you insulate only the rafters you will probably only have 5-1/2 inches of insulation. I think you are going to find the attic with this arrangement pretty cold depending on where you live.
- Q: I gutted the room and now would like to rebuild. One side of the room slants (it's the roof) and the other side of the room is a dormer (all low ceilings).I want to insulate the ceiling but have no ridge vents so no moving air as someone mentioned I should have. I want to install foam channels to keep the insulation away from the roof but not sure if this is a good idea without the ridge vents. I will have a vent to the outside installed on the very top of the roof however and the small attic space is open all the way through the other two upstairs rooms and I will add another roof vent on that end of the house. I will only be able to install 3 inch insulation but that's better than none at all. I live in the northeast and was told if the job isn't done right I can get ice jams in winter. Also I don't see any way to drill ridge vents. would it be ok to just install the styrofoam channels and insulate then sheet rock or am I asking for trouble? Thanks in advance for any help.
- Suggestion: install the insulation with the foam channels but leave the center section (roof ridge area) open from end to end. At each end you can install a static vent or an active one. Depending on the amount of space you have you may be able to install a power vent.If you can send me a diagram with measurements I can give you a more definitive answer.
- Q: attic insulation
- Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
- Q: Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?
- You mean the insulation that you put in your attic or crawlspace? That fiberglass stuff works pretty good- just roll it on out- the thicker it is the higher the R factor. Just remember to not reduce the air circulation especially around eaves, or you'll get condensation.
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Aluminium Foil Roofing Insulation Bubble for Heat and Cold
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 5000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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