HOT SELL AUTO BRAKE DISC WITH OEM:96179110 FOR DAEWOO ESPERO/CP-ESP-008 DAEWOO AUTO SPARE PARTS

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 pc

Supply Capability:: 10000 pc/month

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Auto spare parts HT250 casting trailer and truck brake disc brake disc for truck trailer

1.Truck brake disc nodular graphite iron casting.

2.equipped with Disa sand process line.

3.With ISO9001:2000 and ISo/TS16949:2009 certificates

4.OEM Service/Design Service/Buyer Label.

5.OEM Quality Bearing Design( FIT / FORM / FUNCTION )

6.Wide Product Range(Customers' drawing or samples are accepted)

Auto spare parts iron casting HT250 truck brake disc brake disc

uto spare parts HT250 casting iron trailer and truck brake disc

OEM parts Good quality Competitive price
Excellent part supply system
ISO9001 and ISO/TS16949

We will check out the raw materials as well as the finished products strictly under the international standard and the requirements of our clients depending on our various equipment and our powerful analysis capabilities.

We put both process capacities and output capacities under control, so as to guarantee the process capacities are controllable and the process index is reasonable.

Q:Had automatic transmission rebuilt on my Pontiac Montana after just 53K mi. Saw part (gear +planetaries) and they were ground right down, virtually flat. Well maintained, must have been faulty part, they said.A few days later, the car experienced same problems--wouldn‘t go into gear at a stop sign. Transmission shop says it‘s likely a problem with the antilock brake system that is causing damage to the transmission, although I noticed no problem with the brakes. Dealer where I bought my lemon says this is impossible--ABS problems won‘t cause transmission damage--and it must be a transmission problem that didn‘t get repaired properly.Transmission shop said they‘ve changed all the applicable parts.Who can I believe?? It takes 2 mechanics 8 hours to open the transmission and check it, so I can see why the shop isn‘t eager to admit a mistake.I just want to be able to drive this car far enough to reach a dealership to trade it in!!! Thanks.: Brakes are not connected to the transmission--so forget that talk--the shop sounds either stupid or they are a rip off . Get a new trans--stop fooling around any further---new is new--that is your best choice---you spend the same for a couple of parts then the labor--and you still have an old trans--a new one has at least a 3 year warranty--front to back. A few parts will not mean a thing. That shop that did just parts was a rip off and took you to the laundry--you should have gotten a new trans all at once--in one day you have 3 years of extra life in your van. Don't trade it in--you can just buy another used junker and keep spending money again. keep the van--get a new trans at a DIFFERENT shop---go to a reputable transmission repair facility--look under trans in the phone book.

Q:What parts of car disc brake system wear off?: All the parts wear or deteriorate in one manner or the other. Pads, rotors, calipers, brake lines, brake hoses, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, you name it. If the brake fluid was flushed every two years, then the only the pads and rotors may need replacing.

Q:cause fluid to decrease in one reservoir section and increase in the other?: The vehicle master cylinders I am familiar with are constructed with the common wall between the reserviors a slight bit lower than the external walls. This enables the brake fluid to remain at equal levels in both reservoirs until a serious leakage in one part (front or rear) of the system causes the fluid to drop below the level of that middle wall. With such a leak the brake fluid will be low in one reservoir, while remaining at a higher level in the other, but not full to the required mark. So, IOW, probably a leak in either the front or rear brake system. If the front section of the reservoir is low, you have a leak in the rear brake part of your brake system. If the rear section is low, check for fluid leak in your front brakes.

Q:I have been told that it will cost upwards of $1000 to have a mechanic do the job and I‘ve priced parts to do it myself which will save me about 60% but I don‘t know where to begin!: Any shop worth their salt won't install parts onto a car that they didn't purchase through their accounts at parts stores. Its for warranty reasons. Also, they ARE killing you on part prices. Standard practice at shops is to charge 200% of MFG List price. There's no money in labor. As far as install order. if you're really installing everything you mentioned, the order will not matter at all. Put it all in, fill the system, then bleed the system. When you bleed the system, you wanna start from the furthest spot from the brake master cylinder, IE the back right wheel. Then go back left, then front right, then front left.

Q:I was just wondering what I needed it to replace on my 04 Civic LX my brake system is contaminated I was told it was the master cylinder and calipers what else do I need to replace if anyone can help I really appreciate it the front are calipers and the back are disc barkes: If caught soon enough, a flush is all that is required. Parts go bad from the point of contamination. So if the master was where is started with a new master might be required. Just went through this with a different Honda product. The master did require replacement, but it appears that flushing the lines got the problem solved with out additional parts. Contamination takes two forms by the way, one form eats up the seals and another eats up the metal parts. If the brake fluid turned corrosive then there is a good chance new brake lines might be needed too. The form of solvent (that attacks the seals) can attack the brake hoses at the wheel locations.

Q:just got my car back since it s light came on that I needed new brakes. well now the new brakes don t stop as good as my old ones. they need to be pushed down more to brake and it startles me since im used to my old brakes braking with just a slight tap. the new ones need to be pushed down further in order to brake. I hope I m explaining myself right. my husband tells me it s normal cause it needs to break in. true?: Seal both ends first so it won't absorb the glue. Then use either Tacky Glue or Super Fusion. Both will work just fine.

Q:Clutch is a brake system or a system: Transmission system,do not have to adjust the brake clearance

Q:What is the meaning of the dead braking system?: ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) anti-lock braking system, through the sensor mounted on the wheel issued by the wheel will be locked signal, the controller command regulator to reduce the wheel brake cylinder hydraulic pressure, reduce the brake Torque, after a certain period of time, and then restore the original oil pressure, the constant cycle (up to 5 to 10 times per second), always make the wheel in the state and the maximum braking torque.

Q:is it pressurize like a fuel system?: No pressure till you step on the brake petal - regular or anti-lock brakes.

Q:Can anyone tell me how to fix a brake pad that travels all the way down to the floor when I try to break? I put in a new master cylinder and I also purged the master cylinder so that it would be free of air. I also purged all four wheels to see if the oil lines had any air and everything was correct. But, the problem still persists. The brake pedal still travels all the way down (meaning, that I don‘t know how much force to apply in order to brake) and I don‘t know what else to do. Can anyone help me? Thank you.: either the seals are not working in the master cylinder(was it brand new) or there is still air in the system did you bleed the ABS servo also did you bleed in the right order? are you using DOT4 brake fluid?

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