Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 20000 pc

Supply Capability:: 2000000 pc/month

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Packaging :

Packaging Details:	Usually packed by Neutro packing inside,white/colored carton outside
Delivery Detail:	within 30 days after deposit

Specifications

Japanese car brake pads
1.Good performance of brake pads with long life time
2.No black dust residue
3.Less brake disc wear

car brake pads

1.Material:

Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos.

2.Certificate:

ISO9001 and TS16949 approved.

3.Advantage:

-Significantly reduced dust development

-Practically noise-free

-Better rim appearance

-Greater comfort

-No brake judder

-Better environmental protection

-Lower repair costs

-Very safe

4.The price will be sent to you soon after get your OEM or Drawings.

We are trying to do our work better to improve our products so that we can make all of our customers' satisfied. All inquires will be greatly appreciated.

Product Name:	car brake pads
MATERIAL:	Semi-metallic, low-metallic and ceramic, Non-asbestos
Life Time	above 40000kms
Standard	GB5763/2008
PRODUCT FEATURES:	1) High friction coefficient, Low noise,Wear resistant;
	2) Good thermal recession and recovery;
	3) Good performance of water proof;
	4) Friction coefficient:0.25-0.4/0.30-0.40/0.40-0.50/0.50-0.60
	5) long life time
Packing	1.Inner box Neutral box white good quality the size accords to product size. 2.Can be according to client requirement and use client brand.

picture of brake pad:

Chinese Manufacture Directly Supply Car Spare Parts Car Brake Pad

Q:I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 232,000 miles on it. I needed a hole through the firewall so I could run some wiring throughout the car. I looked up a diagram online showing where I could drill. Turns out, I drilled right into the braking system. Now the bit is stuck in the black brake mystery. I know, I‘m an idiot. The bit broke off in the black half cylinder on the opposite side of the firewall above the brake. And now my brakes are pressured and difficult to press. Will I need that entire system replaced? I don‘t even know what the hell goes on in that thing. Any help is appreciated. If anyone does know what needs to be replaced, please tell the specific part etc. thanks Marcus: that is a brake booster and work on vacuum if u drilled into it u must change it that's why the brake pedle is hard loosing vacuum knucklehead its called a brake power booster if u get it at a parts store usally comes with master cylinder yhen u will have to bleed brakes take off the master not the brake lines put it to the side if u have room remove the booster the bolts are under the dash by brake pedel 4 of them take off the big vacuum hose from under hood and put the new one in

Q:Is it worth it making those changes? Or is it just better if i buy the Trek 4300 with disc brake option?my bike is still in great condition, so i don‘t see buying another one as an option.i just want to try to make those changes, but if just buying one is the better option then so be it: First make sure your bike's frame has the mounting bosses for disc brakes. Lets say you go with the Avid BB7 brakes. They're a good entry level brake with lots of adjustability, and they cost about $ 70 each, You will need two of them. Chances are that your bike's wheels don't have a hub that will accept disc brake rotors. The cheapest way to remedy that is to get new wheels. You can find a set for as low as $150 to $200. Providing that you will be able to reuse your old brake levers, the only thing left to buy is two sets of brake cables $15 each. If you install them yourself you can expect to pay around $370. You just have to decide if it's worth it. In my opinion, a Trek 4300 isn't worth that kind of upgrade. Let me give you something to think about. I have two bikes. One is a Santa Cruz Chamelean set up as a singlespeed. I have a really nice Fox fork on it, and the Avid BB7 disc brakes. I ride in the desert mountains of the Southwest. I usually encounter some technical downhill sections, and the disc brakes work great. My other bike is a 1998 Cannondale Super V 1000. I have it set up as a 27 speed, and it has the old V brakes on it a set of Avid Single Digit 7's. I ride both bikes on the same trails, and have not encountered any noticable braking differences in terms of performance. If you're interested in the Single Digit 7's Jensen USA has a great deal on them right now $21.95 a set. That's a little more than half off.

Q:Instead of having a separate brake and accelerator pedal, why not have one long pedal that does both.If you press lightly with toe pressure, the pedal tilts and it applies the accelerator. If you push forward with the entire foot, the entire pedal moves forward and it applies the brakes, while deactivating the accelerator.I think most sudden accelerations happen when the driver gets the foot on the wrong pedal, and they stand on the accelerator thinking it‘s the brake.If it was one pedal, standing on it would always apply the brake.Would this help reduce the sudden acceleration problems?: you have a well-thought idea, and are to be commended for it, but i am afraid your idea sounds more difficult to use than the standard 2 pedal system. if some one is so confused that they, hit the wrong pedal, what would stop them from being confused, when they are trying to pass some one, and they pull out into oncoming traffic to pass, then the stomp the gas, but they actually slam on the brakes and cause an accident.

Q:is any system can be installed individually? or are they all related?: They can be installed as stand alone units, but if more then one is on the car they need to interact with each other. Anti-lock brakes prevent wheel lock up under braking. Stability control takes a lot of different forms but is often related to control of suspension dampening. Traction control has to do with wheel slip under acceleration. Both ABS and traction control use wheel sensors to detect how the wheels are working in conjunction with each other and so do some stability control units. With out proper gating and properly placed feed back loops one system will fight another. So you can have one, but two or more requires them to communicate with each other so that one is not undoing what the other is attempting to accomplish.

Q:I have a 2001 Dodge Neon with 97k miles on it. Recently, my brake light started to come on when I would pull out on a hill. Now, it happens whether I am already driving or just pulling out, if I‘m on a hill. I have a pretty strong feeling that it‘s some kind of fluid that‘s low but I don‘t have any idea what it would be.Any help?: Low brake fluid. As the brake pads wear on a disk brake system more fluid is retained in the lines and the master cylinder reservoir level drops. When the level drops below the minimum level a sensor turns the brake light on. If you're right on the edge then going up or down hill (depending on whether the sensor is at the front or the rear of the reservoir) will expose the sensor and trigger the light. By the time the light starts coming on you're usually very close to needing the brake pads replaced. I'd have them checked prior to adding brake fluid. When the calipers are expanded to replace the pads the fluid will be forced back into the master cylinder restoring the reservoir level.

Q:My understanding of how the brake system works on fright cars is that the air is used to hold the system open, not closed. If that is the case, how are train cars rolled down hills in switch yards? Shouldn‘t the car stop on its own shortly after being uncoupled?: Not if the brakes are open manually and the wheels arent chucked.this is apractice that used to be used quite frequently.(bumping the yard)

Q:There is no red light. The display just reads Brake service warning. Visit workshop. The car does not seem to have any change in braking distance and the brakes do not squeak. Any suggestions you might have will be appreciated. Thanks.: This can indicate a brake fluid pressure drop. Brake systems with anti-lock brakes can be touchy. EIther way, brake fluid must be changed very 3-4 years, or severe braking problems can result. Call your dealership and ASK them about this. Usually, they will examine your car for free since this can be a dangerous issue. Also, check your brake fluid level.

Q:OK so i got in my 2000 Chevy blazer this morn. and started to drive to the gas station and i drove about a mile and the brake lite came on and my brakes started going in and out soo i came back home and i have always had an ABS problem anyway soo i had already taken the ABS lite out of the dash cluster because i had to replace the ABS wheel speed sensor so many times and finally just took the light out and it turns out the noise was coming from a silver box with the words Kelsy Hayes written on it i figure this is the ABS control unit soo i unplugged both connectors going to it, the noise stopped and the brakes work perfect and the brake lite is off did i fix the problem? or will it or another problem return in the future? because the way i see it, if i don‘t have a wheel speed sensor connected and the lite is already out what is the point in having the control unit. thanks: The unit will sometimes make noise when it is low on brake fluid. It shares the same brake fluid as your brake system so this may mean that your entire brake system is low on fluid. make sure that your master cylinder is full of brake fluid. If it is full I would not worry about it too much. Just remeber that you no longer have ABS.

Q:My 01 solara‘s brake feels weird. I think I need to bleed the brakes. But before I do so, I want to see if I‘m right. The brake initially requires pretty much no effort to press down and for that initial amount there‘s no brake at all, or so I don‘t feel anything. So I think there‘s air in the brake lines. Am I right? or there‘s something else that needs to be done?: NOBODY! Realize that ALL brake fluids break down, turn to GOO and SLUDGE and TOXIC waste over time. THEN it finally turns into LIQUID SANDPAPER! ALL car makers agree that the BRAKE FLUID whshould be changed at4e LEAST every 2-3 years. When it turns DARK BROWN it is at the end of it's service life!. IT WILL require a full PRESSURE BLEED flush and fill. to remove the built up GOO and SLUDGE trapped within the system. Once done you can rest ASSURED that your brakes will outlast most others that do NOT perform this simple service.The DEALERSHIP will use EXACTLY the right fluid and usually charge about $100 for it. This is WORTH the money in saving the brake system and the ABS pump and more with time. the BAD feeling in your brake pedal is the FIRST indicator that you need this fluid CHANGED FLUSHED and FILLED! Good luck!!

Q:I think i was overcharged. In their service booklet, they had a plus brake service that includeded brake system flush for aroud $250. Service advisor charged me for the brake flush. I had a 01 Honda accord V6. Was I overcharged? Yet the front wheels were still squeaking.: You got ganked. You can buy those pads at autozone for around $50 with a lifetime warranty. They are simple to install. The brake flush should only cost 50-85 at a repair shop.

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