Traffic Light conventional LED

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Product Name 203 full screen lights

Model WDM-JD203

Product voltage AC 85-265V

Product Power 22W

Product size 250 * 850 * 140mm

Translucent surface diameter 200mm

Housing material PC

Horizontal or vertical mounting equipment installed

Protection class IP53

Standard GB14887-2006

2-year warranty

Product wiring brief description:

When you are connected to 220V voltage, the black wire to the zero line, the red line connected FireWire,

When you connect 12V voltage, the black wire to the negative, then positive red,

After power product red yellow and green according to set a good time automatic cycle conversion.

Technical Parameters

Red plateful: 90 LED, single brightness: 4360-5250, wavelength: 620-625nm, and down about perspective: 30 °, Power: ≤8W

Yellow plateful: 90 LED, single brightness: 4620-5545, wavelength: 592-594nm, and down about perspective: 30 °, Power: ≤8W

Green plateful: 90 LED, single brightness: 8667-10400, wavelength: 503-506nm, around and down Angle: 30 °, Power: ≤8W

Ambient temperature: -40 ℃ ~ + 80 ℃ Operating voltage: AC185V-265V 60HZ / 50HZ

Light Box Case Material: PC visual distance ≥300m

All prices are for reference only, exact price please call us for accounting prevail.

Division I professional production of conventional LED traffic lights, 200, 300, 400 sections of the traffic lights, the product features are as follows: meet the People's Republic of China GB14887 standard technical indicators; High brightness: LED assembly wick bright colors; low power consumption: only incandescent quarter, only 15VA; long life: up to 50,000 hours; dimming control: automatically adjusts the brightness according to environmental changes; limiting control: automatic calibration load current; brightness balancing: balancing current offers optical components specially designed circuit plus, light special uniform; strict aging: aging products by long power, more stable performance. Protection rating greater than IP53. 1. Off the optical properties of the light intensity distribution 1.2 1.1 chromaticity coordinates meet the requirements of GB14887 GB14887 compliance with the relevant requirements, including the function of defective color vision to be achieved observer provisions 2. Electrical performance 2.1 operating voltage AC220 ± 15% V 50 ± 2Hz 2.2 rated power single lamp 10M? Reach 50000h 3. Physics 2.4 Dielectric strength 1440VAC 2.5 ignition withstand life under normal conditions of use? Mechanical properties 3.1 of wind pressure in line with GB14887 the relevant requirements of 3.2 anti-vibration requirements in line with GB14887 requirements 3.3 protection class IP53 4. adapt to the environment is greater than 4.1 lights working environment temperature is -40ºСˉ50ºС, resistant to high temperature -40ºС and 4.2 + 80ºС test temperature when 25ºС, air relative humidity less than 95 %

Q: I have worked there as an electrical engineer but in design for a consultant. I would like to know what are the major things to account for (DB's, wires and cables, ducts, conduits.) and how to estimate them for a typical 6000sq.ft 2 floor villa: If you have the design drawings, you simply have to make a material take-off list. The main drawings are: General Layout Grounding Layout Electrical Equipment Layout / Schematic Riser Diagram (Fire Alarm) Lighting Layout At the very least, you need to have the General Layout drawings (to know how many rooms you've got) and you need to know the electrical levels since some houses might require 380/480 3-phase for elevators and large electrical equipment. Working room by room, you will estimate cable and conduit lengths, the number and specifications of the DBs, number of lights, outlets, switches, buzzers, intercoms, smoke detectors.

Q: Could someone tell if if I translated this paragraph correctly? Does it sound grammatically or stylistically good? The last employee leaving the premises must switch off the light and electrical equipment (except those that must run around the clock).: Lights (not 'light'); those that have to be left running all the time. Or simply .those which have to be left on all the time. I have avoided run around the clock because running around means a person running on a circular course, as in running around the block. Note that I am British, Americans might have different ideas. They might incorporate 24/7 meaning all the time.

Q: i know that megger is used in marine.but how its been used and please give me other megger application in detailedthanks for answer: In electrical testing we megger equipment. A ac voltage 600 volts is induced one a piece of electrical equipment like a transformer and the impedance is measured. The megger measured AC resistance/impedance vs normal dc resistance that volt meter measure. The higher voltage gave a more accurate measure of impedance. Equipment with defective insulation, would have a lower impedance.

Q: Downstairs 4 outlets and 4 of the lights stopped working. One of the outlets that doesn't work has the top plugin socket working but the bottom one doesn't. Also 2 lights still work even though they are in rooms where the sockets don't work. At the time we did have two computers running from the outlets and maybe some other electrical stuff. When the electrical went out we heard electrical sparking sounds.Then like a couple months later it happened again but upstairs. The lights and outlets stopped working in 2 bedrooms and the bathroom. I don't think we had very much electrical equipment plugged in just maybe a hair straightener.If I reset the breaker the switch will move to where its supposed to be but nothing happens.How much money should I have on hand for the electrician approximately? $200? $1000?: The key piece of information was the sparking sound. What you've got is a VERY common problem. A bad (loose) connection some where. Most likely at one of the receptacles. Since you've had the problem in more than one room, more than one circuit it's a good idea to have an Electrician come in and deal with it. Code allows us to attach the in coming wires to one set of screws on a receptacle and attach the out going wires to the other set of screws. Or worse yet, to push the wires into little holes in the back of the outlet, often referred to as back stabbing. That means that power is dependent on the connections on the recep. to pass from box to box. If any one of those 4 connection points fails everything down stream looses power. The cure is to splice all incoming and outgoing wires, add apig tail (short piece of wire) to the splice and attach it to the outlet. Much better connection and now the recep. is attached TO the circuit as opposed to being part OF the circuit. A really good electrician can make this change in a few minutes. Not counting moving furniture or dealing with other problems they might encounter. I strongly recommend having them make this change to all outlets in the house. Count up the # of outlets and multiply by 10 minutes each. THIS IS JUST a ballpark figure! I'm not there and can't say for sure! Could very well take longer but not a lot. Personally I can make the change and replace the receptacle in as little as 5 minutes, but I've run into situations that took MUCH longer. But now you have a MINIMUM time to work from. If the house is old or if the outlets have been painted over, this would be the time to change them. Available colors now include almond and light almond which in my opinion look much better than the common ivory. Hope I've been of assistance.

Q: EMP is a byproduct of a nuclear explosion. It can cook solid state electronics and computers. The great danger is that nuclear air bursts can take down the computers that manage our banking, our record-keeping, and even the ones that manage our automobiles.The military services have taken some steps to protect their electronic systems from EMP, mainly by shielding. However few of our civilian electronic systems are protected in any way from this threat.Obviously there are two ways to deal with it right now. One is to prevent the explosion by deterring a nuclear attack. The other is to find some way to protect our senstive electronics.What should we do, and what can we do starting today?: The worst of the pulse lasts for only a second, but any unprotected electrical equipment — and anything connected to electrical cables, which act as giant lightning rods or antennae — will be affected by the pulse. Unprotected being the operative word -- put Uninteruptable Power Supplies (UPS) on your equipment. They come in various sizes and daily spare the equipment from spikes and drops. If the EMP hasn't fried it, you would have enough time to shut down your equipment without damage to it. But I don't know if they are built to resist the EMP. All of the data that is needed to protect the country is backed up on servers located much further away from their main location. They do have UPS's on all the equipment, and generators to keep the equipment and data protected. If a nuclear explosion took out one site, it is doubtful that it would take out the mirror(s). If I were that close, I don't know that it would matter to me anyway.

Q: Can someone tell me more about this MOS or others that relate to this field of work. Also, how will a soldier be utilized under this MOS. thank you: Usmc Mos 1142

Q: I need this for my class and I just need a site to start off with! Thanks: (1) Try: MSDS (wikipedia) (2) Also try: Electrical equipment in hazardous areas (wikipedia) It may depend on which country you live in. References and external links for (1) and (2) above are included.

Q: HI I need to know if anyone knows the MN electrical code for how many can lights I am allowed on one circuit using 14-2 with 15amp. also I would like to put some in my soffit outside, any type of can required for this? Thanks.: Just keep the total load less than 80% of the circuit and you should be fine, even Dave Jacobson would not have a problem with that, he is a fun inspector to deal with, if you are borderline will depend on the inspector, if you are over it will not fly. In the 2008 code there is this nice little deal about all electrical equipment installed outdoors, has to be rated either for damp, or wet locations, even gfci outlets in an in use cover, and in a house have to be of the tamper resistant type . If you watch those things, even good old Dave won't have a problem with it, but I bet he still looks at every breaker in your panel, the label I mean Good luck.

Q: Hi I'm doing a music project at the moment, writing songs, music, etc.my genre would probably be considered alternative/electronic rockMy current vision for my set up is an electric guitar and my macbook.I create most of the music via macbook (drum parts, synth parts, basically all the programing)Playing live i suppose i'd play these songs on my laptop. While i do this, i sing, and play rhythm guitar along with the samples and instrumentals on the macbook.My question is, how do I connect all this stuff on stage? Could anyone out there recommend anything that I could use to connect my macbook to speakers for performing live.p.s I know nothing of playing with electrical equipment (been doing acoustic for a very long time) all I know about live equipment is connecting a guitar to a guitar amp.so is there like a way to connect a macbook to an amp? or speaker of some sort?Thanks in advance.: In order to get the most from your Mac as sound generator use a reasonably good audio interface (like the E-mu 0404 usb or something from M-audio). This should be connected to a mixer and this one to the PA system. You also should connect your microphone and guitars to the mixer too, so you can control the volume of each instrument, including the Mac. Although you can connect the mac directly to an Amp I won't do that in order to get control of volume and have better sound. Computers generally don't like live performing. Electric voltage can be unstable (heavy power consumption and lights on-off pattern). Use the appropriate electric equipment to make sure the computer always receive the correct amount of voltage. If not, it can fail and ruin your performance. Make a test where possible.