The New Kind of Longxiao Bimass Boiler Introduced in 2015

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Technical features:

1. Based on the original version, HUAYUAN adopts II generation high temperature eddy-current combustion to realize the longer detention time of every burning point. As a result, hyper- high temperature is created to satisfy biomass pyrolysis and gasification. The combustion will be more complete and clean.

2. Adopting horizontal heat transferring structure, high efficiency heat transferring tubes, all around cyclone technology. The fixed maintenance door is changed to removable door. We use the

work craft of one-time assemble and welding, which makes maintenance easier. The lifetime of boiler will be doubled.

3. Heat-resistant and heat-retaining material used inside help improve boiler's combustion stability. With the watt style dust catcher, there is no white smoke even at the beginning of setting fire, the boiler emission is much lower than that of natural gas, which makes a great proof to environmental protection.

4. Equipped with China's leading IV generation of the colorful liquid crystal touchscreen, dynamic intelligent onebutton control system to set fire automatically. HUAYUAN changes the era of

boiler from tradition to intelligence. Clients can monitor the parameters of input water, output water temperature, smoke, fuels in bunker, combustion in hearth etc in real time. After the change

of relevant data, it will remind user of maintenance. Client will monitor boiler's running status and energy-saving condition.

5. Applying anti back fire structure and backflow prevention device, so that biomass fuel can be put into hearth. The design of high temperatured airflow prevented flowing into bunker and

multilevel technology solves the potential safety problem of catching fire easily. At the same time, multilevel feeding technology decreases fuel feeding load, which makes transportation part

more durable and with longer life-time.

6. Our boiler raw material highly exceed the national standard. we use the workcraft like high-pressured welding and zincification-and-galvanize for appearance, which makes our boiler more exquisite and durable.

Q: This seems a bit tight to me! We are about to sign a tenancy agreement for a new house and in it it states that the tenant is responsible for organising and paying for the boiler to get serviced each year.I have checked with the letting agent and they have said that this is correct and that the 'all of the landlord's properties requires this.I'm quite miffed as I always thought that it should be the landlord's responsibility seeing as it's his house and his boiler. Thing is, everything is ready to go ahead - we have handed in notice at current place and move in in 2 weeks time so we are going to have to sign this tenancy. Just seems a bit rubbish to me :(: The letting agent must surely be having a laugh with you. Remind them that a landlord must have the boiler (and any other gas appliances) serviced on an annual basis. They must also provide a tenant with a landlords' gas safety certificate. Your landlord has these duties by law. It doesn’t matter if your tenancy agreement or the agreements of your landlord's other tenants says that they are a tenant's responsibility – they aren’t. You might also like to remind them that the Property Ombudsman (www.tpos .uk/) would be quite interested to hear about them peddling unlawful clauses in their contracts. I understand that at this stage you've probably invested too much time and money to simply walk away from the house, although this is honestly what I'd advise doing: a landlord who's playing silly games before the tenancy even begins doesn't bode well for the duration of the tenancy. You would be able to claim back any fees you've paid to the agent through the small claim's court on the basis that they are knowingly giving you false information. If you do go ahead with the let, hopefully when you make it clear to the agent that you're not a mug and want this particular clause removed from the tenancy agreement, they'll do so without argument. For future reference, the Health and Safety Executive (HSE) is responsible for enforcing gas safety. If your landlord doesn't provide you with a gas safety certificate or further tries to insist that you need to have the boiler serviced yourself, you can call the HSE helpline on 0845 345 0055 or 0800 300 363 or contact your nearest office - details are available on the HSE website.

Q: Have you ever lived in a home with the old-fashion boiler/radiator heat? Is it less dry that gas furnace heat: My home has a boiler with radiant heat, my previous home had forced hot air with a gas furnace. I find that the boiler is a more even heat and doesn't dry the house out. We also don't have as much trouble with static electricity. Forced hot air dries out the air while heating it, that is why you need a humidifier.

Q: boiler is used in industries: Boiler design is the process of designing boilers used for various purposes. The main function of a boiler is to heat water to generate steam. Steam produced in a boiler can be used for a variety of purposes including space heating, sterilisation, drying, humidification and power generation. The temperature or condition of steam required for these applications is different, so boiler designs vary accordingly.

Q: 1 tonne boiler can be the number of square meters of heating?: according to 1 ton boiler full load operation calculation can theoretically 10,000 square meters of heating

Q: My boiler is set to the aquastat all the way down to 140 and the burner will fire until 200 is reached then shut off after the relief valve shoots out steam and water. I am not sure if it does this because there is a limit, but seems like the connection from my thermostat to the boiler isn't working. Thermostat is wired properly, but when I set the thermostat to 15C, it goes up to 20C at times, can anyone help? I have a technician coming in during the week but is cold and would like to see if i can fix this. I have heat just have to manual shut down the power to the boiler because it reaches 200 which throws the relief valve open. With the high and low points on the relay set to the lowest, why is it going to 200? wiring problem?: Although your aquastat is set to 140, it may be faulty and stuck closed meaning the internal contacts (switch) won't separate (open) when 140 degrees is reached. Think of the aquastat as 2 pieces of wire. when your boiler is 120 degrees the 2 pieces of wire are touching and the electricity can make the burner work. When the Temperature reaches 140 deg, the 2 wires separate and the burner shuts off. For some reason the aquastat's contacts are not separating. Shut off the power to the boiler, and TRY adjusting the aquastat screw up and down a few times quickly, and tap it with a screwdriver handle without breaking it. This MIGHT make it start working until the service tech comes out. Its a chance. I don't think it has anything to do with the upstairs t-stat. The t-stat should be ABLE to be left at 90 forever and never have your boiler's temp reach higher than the aquastat and never have the relief pop. Good luck ****The aquastat where you adjust it. adjust it up and down a few times kinds quickly. Then with the handle of the screwdriver rap the aquastat box. You're trying to vibrate the stuck contacts loose. if you wanna be a little more courageous, make sure the power is off. take the cover of the aqustat off and poke around with your finger hoping to seperate the stuck contacts. Good luck. Its a possibility. Sorry this is a educated guess without seeing it. Turn on the switch when your done. I hope you get heat.

Q: turbine 40 mw,boiler cfbc: the first thing to do is to see the heat balance diagram. you can size the boiler as per 5% higher than VWO condition or 10% higher than MCR condition. you can size the condensate pumps and boiler feed pumps taking margins on flows and check the flow and head at drum safety valve lift off condition.

Q: I have a boiler used only for heating my house through baseboards. My hot water tank is a separate unit. For some reason the minimum temperature on the aquastat was set to ~160 even thought the boiler hets up to ~180-200 within 20-40 minutes from being OFF (depending on the outside temp). I feel almost as if the minimum can be turned off or at least down since we don't need the water to be immediately hot.I don't mind waiting a bit longer for the house to heat up if it will save me money! I'll just set my thermostat schedule to start 30-60 minutes sooner!Let me know if I'm missing something here.Boiler - Weil Mclain WGO-3Aquastat - GeniSys Model 7505: Yes, you need at least 140 degrees for cast iron boilers. Otherwise you may have condensation in the combustion chamber or heat exchanger. This can cause corrosion problems . Since this is a fairly new boiler, you need to call Weil Mclain and get their recommendations. You could take 20 years off it's life by running it too cold. The 140 degree minimum temperature comes right from Weil-McLain's service manual for the WGO-3 series, page 21. Here is a warning from ASHRAE about the dangers of running a non-condensing type boiler at a temperature below 130 degrees. Only certain types boilers can operate safely at this lower temperature. The ASHRAE document mentions this in several places: .....A 1 million BTU/hr boiler will produce 6 gallons/hr liquid water when fully condensing ???? This water will only condense at gas temp 135?F..... Any boiler can be a condensing boiler ???? Just return water cooler than 130°F ???? Water will condense somewhere in the boiler ???? Conventional boilers will be damaged ???? By corrosion or failed refractory from condensation ???? By sooting due to blocked fins (copper fin tube) ???? Condensing boilers are special ???? They can handle flue gas condensate safely ???? They can also run at non-condensing temperatures ???? Condensing boilers need special flue material ???? AL29-4C or PVC (316L is used in Europe)

Q: I have a door seperating a room and boiler room. There are no windows so i can i make a hole and exhaust all the hot air to there: NO! Your boiler exhaust is TOXIC! (meaning...it can KILL you) This exhause MUST be vented OUTDOORS. I really must ask...where is your boiler exhaust currently going? Normally, the exhaust pipe feeds into a chimney stack goes up the chimney out into the air, far above the roofline.

Q: how do I up the pressure on my vokera linea boiler?: There should be fairly close to the boiler a silver coloured flexible pipe about 10 inches long attached to the boiler pipework. On one or possibly both ends will be a valve. This or these should be opened until you have 1 bar pressure reading on the gauge on the boiler front.

Q: On the hot water heating pipe above my boiler, there is a green elbow-like joint with a small valve on top. I've been having clanking and swishing water sounds in my baseboard, so I'm guessing there's a bunch of air in my baseboard lines.I've tried to bleed the lines from the baseboard valves, but I never get any air coming out, just trickling water. My uncle says it may have to do with the valve over the boiler. He says you are supposed to leave it a little loose to allow air to escape. When I went down there, it was as tight as it could go. It is safe to loosen this a bit and leave it like that?Also, could the reason the air wasn't bleeding out was that this valve was tight? Does it have to be loose in order to bleed the upstairs lines?: don't mess with valves unless u know what your doing,could be very very BAD!!! sounds like u may need more water in your boiler,,,find a press gauge on your boiler,,1 lb of water press will go up 27 inches from the press gauge so figure how hi up the highest radiant is and do the math,,add h20 and keep press up and bleed till no air,this is assuming u have a hot h20 boiler and not steam..a few pounds over the highest radiant is recommended

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