Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB6818 System 1

Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB6818 System 2

Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB6818

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Product Description:

Key SpecificationsPolished Porcelain Tile SB6818:

Product information:

Material: soluble salt porcelain

Various colors are available

Size: 600 x 600mm

Thickness: 10mm

Features: non-slip, wear- and water-resistant

Packing: 4 pieces/carton, 29.5kg/carton

20-foot container: 880 cartons

20-foot FCL container: 1267sqm

Carton with pallets or customized

Primary Competitive Advantages Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 :

First choice,top grade.

Water absorption:<0.1%.

Delivery Time:15~25 days after deposit.

Certicate: CE,ISO9001,Soncap,etc.

Competitive price and good quality

Usage— Suitable for home, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel, airport, shopping mall,

deluxe clubs floor and wall tiles etc.

This series of products in addition to good wear resistance with ultrafine tiles, flexural strength,

and low water absorption, the appearance of the product, due to be fired into a crystal frit, so

three-dimensional effectprominent, white the texture clear, natural, delicate harmony and balance without duplication, with impeccable decorative effect, close to natural stone.

Technical characteristics:

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

to clean, etc excellent characteristic

Main Export Markets:

Mid East/Africa

Central/South America

Asia

Australasia

Southeast Asia, Mideast Asia

Product Picture :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Production Line :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Product Certificates :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Packing Details :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Q: Ok we are remodeling our kitchen and have the area between the counter tops and the bottom of the upper cabinets that is currently some ugly green tiles. Very small ones at that. We do not want the hassle to remove these and try to replace with something more attractive. We are looking for solutions to just cover the tiles with something d-i-y and not too expensive. I have seen a lot of peel and stick stuff but don't know if it can be used on tiles. Please give suggestions!: Peel and stick will not work. Everybody is else is right that you'd be much happier removing the old tile and either re-tiling or just using wall underneath (if needs repair you may have to cover with a new thin sheet of drywall.) If you refuse to do it......you could just paint the tile. Clean it really well, prime it, and paint over the top. It's the easiest and cheapest way to cover it up. Once again, I have to say that I think if you are going through all of the trouble to remodel the kitchen, you might as well just remove the old tile and replace it with new. You could get subway tile, which is cheap and timeless.......

Q: We want to put up kitchen tile for our back splash. I would like to put the squares on diagonally but my husband is concerned about the difficulty of all of the cuts. I need some DYI help. Please only serious replies, no jokesters: Not totally sure what you are asking. I have applied square tiles in a diamond pattern. Be sure to get a wet tile saw to cut the tiles diagonally in half, as this will do a much neater job and make things easy for you. It really wasn't that difficult, lay out your pattern on the floor to get an idea how many cuts you need to make. Use those plastic spacers to ensure uniform spacings between tiles and then just have fun with it. It was a project that I enjoyed and it brought instant enhancements to the kitchen.

Q: What is the tile diagonal: Square tiles in the order of the first and third corners or the second and fourth corners connected to the length of the line, is the diagonal of the tiles. Not the four sides and so on

Q: Figure, I was in the indoor shoot, only two lights 600W1200w, brick surface is not bright matt antique tiles, moved to remove the two sides still have, I do not want to shoot good-looking, is to accurately accurate design printing of. Is there any way? Do you have to be back? Polar mirror ok? By the way, what kind of high-reflective polished tiles to shoot?: 1, CPL (circular polarizer) is a photography enthusiasts more commonly owned filters, generally used for landscape photography, eliminate unnecessary polarized light, so that the whole picture is more clear, more transparent feeling, it is recommended to find A polarizer mounted to facilitate the maximum elimination of reflective; 2, to eliminate the reflective Polarizer is not omnipotent, pay attention to the direction of your light, try to use soft, or studio and other special auxiliary equipment to shoot, to obtain more general light, try to avoid strong direct light, or day Utilize natural light. No matter what type of light or other light source, pay attention to the direction of the lens with the light direction to adjust to refraction at least. 3, pay attention to the scope of light exposure, if not enough light to fill the light plate, this light is also more soft. 4, white balance should pay attention to the need for accurate metering, pay attention to compensation settings. Otherwise the color of your tile photo may and will actually have a big contrast

Q: I would like to glue it to the tile that is already there, except remove a few that are coming loose.: Bill's answer is correct and in addition to it I will add that depending on where you live it could be against the law to remove it due to the asbestos. It's possible that the law requires you to have a company that's certified with asbestos removal come and remove it. However is anyone going to question you if you DIY? If so there could be some stiff penalties involved. If not than the other thing to consider would be to use a quality dust mask because you don't want to breath that stuff in at all..... We covered our floor insted of ripping it up.

Q: how many tiles will it take: Hi, Are you sure it's 102 ft? That's more like a dining hall for a small army, rather than a kitchen. Maybe you intended 10 ft and 2 in by 18 ft. Anyway, the normal way to tile a room is to put down two chalk lines that cross in the center of the room and bisect each side of the room. One then starts laying tiles from the center of the room and works toward the sides and ends. If you mean that your tiles are 28 in by 28 in, then the required number of tiles for a 10' 2 x 18 ft room would be Approximately as follows: 6 tiles along long dimension would leave 2 feet at each end, and 4 tiles along the short dimension, assuming it is 10' 2, would leave 10 inches on each side. Dovering the center section would require 24 tiles Covering the uncovered part along the edges would depend to some extent on whether you have a matching pattern. To conver the ends you would need a at least 8 tiles. To cover the sides you could probably cut the tiles and use part of one tile for one side and the other part for the other side. (That depends to some extent on borders and how particular you are about matching.) So, if you cut the tiles, you would need either 6 tiles or possibly 7. So, in summary we have this: 24 .....tiles for the center section 8........ tiles for the ends 7........tiles for the sides. ------------------------ 39......tiles total. REMEMBER, in all of this I assumed that your dimension was not 102 ft, but 10ft and 2 in. You might possible get by with 38, depending if there is no pattern and no borders to worry about. Hope this is not too confusing. FE

Q: I have 12x12 tiles in my kitchen on the floor and about 5 of them are cracked/damaged. How hard is it to replace them, can I do it myslef or hire a professional? What materials will be needed?: It's very hard to match the tiles. Also you will have to remove the grout around each broken one, and then crack the broken one into pieces, then remove clean the surface, apply adhesive, and then the tile, and then grout. The color of grout will never match up 100% and neither will the tile. Also it will take you a good part of the day. Good luck with your project!

Q: We recently remodeled our kitchen and are now ready to apply something between the counter and wall cabinets. We are thinking of tile. Our cabinets are a light oak. The counters are a marble looking blend of grey, blue, beige. Our appliances are beige. What color tile would look nice for this? Also, could you use 12x12 tile vs 4x4 or the smaller tile or is smaller tile better? We currently have unpainted drywall. Can you install tile with drywall behind? Or do you need that other type of backing?: (I prefer the drywall myself.) If you're using ceramic or stone tile, you'll need a backer for the thinset. If you're using stick-on linoleum tiles, just install Luan before the tile. The 4 tiles will look better, but for a beginner, the 12 would be easier to keep straight. Try to come up with a color that matches or refleects the color of the floor.

Q: Kitchen is open to living area. Kitchen has tile already and living room has carpet. We want replace carpet wit hardwood if it look right, or should we just tile it all. Entry way from frony door is tile then living room begins with carpet then kitchen begins with tile.: Rob okorder

Q: My father wanted to replace the tiles in the master bathroom as he plans on putting the house on the market. I was skeptical whether or not he could accomplish the project and after hitting several snags I‘ve decided to get involved.The problem is that the old tile was removed and there‘s only 7/8 - 1 to work with. The new tile is 3/8 thick; leaving 1/2. His original plan was to lay down plywood, cement board, then tile, however, it‘s going to raise the floor a solid 1 which will cause several complications. Any advice on what the #$@* I‘m supposed do? I truly appreciate all of your help.: Once you pull up the tiles and the old and get to the original subfloor you can put your backerboard directly on that. You don't need an extra layer of plywood. If you feel the subfloor is not sufficient you need to replace it too. If the subfloor is sturdy it is okay to put down a layer of thinset, then put down your backer, then screw the backer and fill the seams with thinset and the appropriate seam tape. Then lay your tiles like normal.

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