Polished Porcelain Tile C-O38A15
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or L/C
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 x 20' FCL m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 M2 Per Month m²/month
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Key Specifications/Special Features Of Porcelain Tile:
1. Material: glazed porcelain
2. Antique feel, Metal Image
3. Low water absorption
4. Strong in hardness
5. Coordination in color and luster
6. Usage Area: home, office, hotel, government and corporate projects, flooring tiles, deluxe clubs flooring
7. Style: simple, classic, elegant and splendid in color
8. Good in abrasion and chemical corrosion-resistant
9. Resistance to thermal shock
10. Available in various sizes and colors
Primary Competitive Advantages Of Porcelain Tile
1. All product of rustic ceramic tiles are of top grade AAAA
2. CE certificate, ISO9001:2008 and ISO14001:2004
3. OEM accepted.
4. Speial dimensions available according to your floor tiles request.
5. Best Quality with best price, strictly quality control.
6. On time delivery, in general 7-10days.
7. Best after sale service, customer can follow their porcelain tiles order situation any time. no matter on product line, warehouse or shipment.
Main Export Markets Of Porcelain Tile:
1. Asia
2. Australasia
3. Central/South America
4. Eastern Europe
5. Mid East/Africa
6. North America
7. Western Europe
Specification Of Porcelain Tile
Tile type: | polished porcelain ceramic floor tiles |
Material: | Porcelain |
Size(MM) : | 600X600mm |
Thickness(MM: | 10mm |
Absorption: | <0.1% |
Color: | Available in all designs and colors |
Usage: | Used in floor |
Surface treatment: | Polished surface |
Features: | Professional triple-burning in oven, which makes our tiles more excellent quality. |
Function: | Heat-insulation, wear-resistant |
Packaging: | 4pcs/ctn,30kg/ctn,1.44spuare meters/box, one 20ft,27000kg container can load 20pallets,1267spuare meters/standard cartons and wooden pallets packing |
Delivery time: | Within 15 days after received the payment |
Payment terms: | L/C,T/T,30%deposit in advance, balance will be pay off before loading by T/T |
MOQ: | 1*20'FT |
Supply ability: | 10000spuare meters per day |
Remark: | All kind of designs can be produced according to your requirements |
Product Pictures Of Porcelain Tile
- Q: We are planning small home improvements during the next year to prepare our house for sale. I would like to switch out our 4 year old formica countertop and replace it with granite tile. A slab is out of the question due to cost. We have a small kitchen and would need about 40 tiles. When I looked on the internet for costs, it seems I can get these tiles for under $300.00? Does that sound right, I think that‘s less than what we paid for the Formica. Also, my next question is can you use the same tile for the entryway, which is next to the kitchen, or it that a little too much of the same thing?
- Tile is thinner than granite counter top,so it can be much less expensive, but it looks good. I would not put it on the floor. A little lipstick on your lips creates an illusion, putting it on your cheeks also, makes you a clown. You want to impress with the granite, so use something else matching ton the floor.
- Q: Last year I had my bathroom remodeled. I had a new tub and tile installed. I asked the tile man to put the tiles together and not to have grout lines. He insisted that they HAD to have grout. I told him to put in the smallest, narrowest grout line as possible. Well now the tile grout is looking yucky. I know how to clean it so that is not the question. I just want to know why do you have to have grout in the first place? If the tiles are pushed up against each other with the sides touching and then put in grout in the very small area. why would a professional tile man insist that it MUST have grout?
- How the heck do you plan on keeping your tile from shifting? Use some common sense. Something has to hold them in place, and if you didn't have grout, they'd be all over the place and they'd break and crack and chip and dirt would be all up in them and they would be even more difficult to clean. When you want tile, the grout comes w/ the pkg. If you didn't want that, get vinyl or something similar. Sorry, don't want to sound negative, but you have to see things from thier point of view before you start to argue w/ the man. Please research a little bit. Mandy Architectural Building Tech.
- Q: About 7 years ago I had new tile put in all around my bathtub. I knew I would not like cleaning this tile grout. It is way too much work now that I am a senior lady. I would love to replace this tile with something that has no grout needed. Other than Formica (Laminate) can anyone think of another product I can have installed without grout lines? Thank you for your suggestions.
- We clean tile and grout and seal everyday...What do we recommend? CULTURED MARBLE...Great! Seamless and last forever...Comes in 4x8 sheets just like plywood..And comes in many colors and patterns..Last forever...
- Q: Specifically wall tiles in a bathroom
- this is being told me by my mom, the Tile Queen! Go to Home Depot on Saturday, and take the FREE Tile Setting class! Next, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES, USE MASTIK TO STICK THE TILES,use mortar. Mix your OWN mortar my mom was reduced to tears of frustration and anger the first time she tried to tile a bathroom because of the idiot who said to use mastik. It is an easy, foolproof job if you take your time Take a basic class, watch a DVD of it, have a tile book beside you, and GO FOR IT.
- Q: I want to use the tiles for a back splash in the kitchen. Is there a reason I have to use the spacers? Why can‘t I put them where they are touching each other? I‘m not using them on a floor. I don‘t like the look of the space between the tiles.
- I hate the look of having to clean grout myself but you need it for support durability. Best advice is don't use white grout with blue tiles(don't use a contrasting grout). Nowdays you can get grout in many colors so get grout the same color as your tile. Also you should use spacers for a professional appearance or it will turn out looking like a first timer did it. However, use the smallest spacers possible for the size tile your using. I did both of these things the grout blends so well it looks like one tile is just flowing into the next!
- Q: I have a 15x15 tile that is on the floor in front of a gas fireplace (never been used) that has a hairline crack in it. The tile is one of 4 on the floor and matches 8 others that ring the face of the gas fireplace, the bathrooms and the kitchen. I cannot find the same tile to replace it. There is no elevation difference across the crack.Is there a method to fill the hairline crack so it doesn‘t stand out like a sore thumb?
- If you must replace it. (because it is not yours and you will have to pay) It can be matched very closely as 15 is not common replace the 4. Being in a different area the difference should no show. Remove the grout around the tile with a grout remover (its a scraper, ask at the hardware store). It can also be removed with a Dremmel tool and carbide tips. Use a center punch and hammer to crack the offending tile into pieces and then pick and scrape the tile and old mastic out. You have to get it ALL out. Be sure not to use surrounding tiles for leverage. You can then place new mastic and eyeball the tile for proper placement or purchase tile spacers when you get the grout removal tool. You should measure how wide the grout lines are. Use a trowel that places mastic at the proper height (measure how thick it is under the other tiles once you have your tile out and the hole is clean) for example if your mastic under the remaining tiles is 1/8th inch that is the notch to use. When placing the tile place enough pressure to make it level with the other tiles. wait 1 day with NO TRAFFIC and re-grout.
- Q: Please help! and give as much information you can about the invention of tiles!
- The earliest finds of roof tiles are documented from a very restricted area around Corinth (Greece), where fired tiles began to replace thatchet roofs at two temples of Apollo and Poseidon between 700-650 BC.[1] Spreading rapidly, roof tiles were within fifty years in evidence for a large number of sites around the Eastern Mediterranean, including Mainland Greece, Western Asia Minor, Southern and Central Italy.[2] Early roof tiles showed an S-shape, with the pan and cover tile forming one piece. They were rather bulky affairs, weighting around 30 kg apiece.[3] Being more expensive and labour-intensive to produce than thatchet, their introduction has been explained with their greatly enhanced fire resistance which gave desired protection to the costly temples.[4] The spread of the roof tile technique has to be viewed in connection with the simultaneous rise of monumental architecture in archaic Greece. Only the appearing stone walls, which were replacing the earlier mudbrick and wood walls, were strong enough to support the weight of a tiled roof.[5] As a side-effect, it has been assumed that the new stone and tile construction also ushered in the end of 'Chinese roof' (Knickdach) construction in Greek architecture, as they made the need for an extended roof as rain protection for the mudbrick walls obsolete. You could get more information from the link below...
- Q: If I start in the middle, I will have to cut tile for both sides. I think I should start in the upper right corner, but my neighbor seems to think it will look out of balance.
- Of course you start in the middle...but then again there are two ways of starting in the middle. Measure the space. Measure the tile and add the thickness of the future grout line. When you expect to cut the tile, and one always expects to cut the tile, you want to make sure that if you in fact begin with a GROUT LINE down the middle, you will have tiles of at least 1/2 the size down the sides. You don't want slivers of cut tile because your tile almost made it to the walls. So you may want a whole tile centered in the entry rather than the grout line. You can always lay the tiles out and see how it will look. Generally you do not want to use a wall as a straight edge, because usually they are neither straight nor parallel, nor perpendicular to other lines. Cutting a tile ever so slightly over a short distance will hide the building's flaws. Over a long distance it might become noticable. When you lay the tile out and you can decide where to end it rather than it automatically ending at a wall or something, you could start a nearly whole or whole tile at the door. Again you don't want a sliver of tile anywhere. If your tile is ceramic and has a stone pattern, be sure to orient them differently so as to minimize the repetitiveness. Never start in a corner.
- Q: For some reason I‘m having a hard time finding a good DIY instruction page on how to remove floor tile. Half of them are about removing just one damaged tile and the rest all have different methods. Some say to place a towel on top of it and smash with something, others have different machines. I‘m not really sure where to start. The space is about 5‘ x 5‘ and the tiles are the tiny kind, like 1 sq. inch each. What tools do I need? Do people usually tile underneath wooden vanities? Will I have to take it up? Help!
- First stop should be a Home Depot or Revy or whatever building supplier you have near you. They will know and have the tools you might need and could give good advice on the easiest removal. Unfortunately there are no magically easy ways to do this. If you are able to attack an edge, good for you. Use a good, sturdy scraper. Perhaps even one that you will be able to use a hammer on the end of. Then it is just simply a matter of elbow grease and determination. Actually, a 5' X 5' space will come off fairly quickly once you get started. If you are not able to start at an edge, you will have to make one by chiselling out a few tiles until you can get your sturdy scraper working again. just scrape a few grout lines and pry out some tiles. Please wear safety glasses and gloves throughout this whole procedure. These things will chip and have very sharp edges. The next part is to be sure that you scrape off all of the thinset (glue) that was holding the tiles down. You are now almost ready to re-tile, if that is your goal. If it is, then just be sure that the area is solid and clean and you are good to go. As for tiling under a vanity . . . some do and some don't. New home bulders certainly don't in order to keep costs down. It certainly is not necessary as long as the vanity will be the right height after you are done. There could be a 1/4 to 1/2 inch height difference due to the thickness of the tiles. Hope this helps. George
- Q: im layng tile and the room is 13 long and 11 wide how many tiles would that take
- I know you had enough schooling to use a calculator. if not a pencil and division.. Size of tiles matter. They do not sell half a tile so you got to go with a whole one and then cut it to size. So lay some tiles out dry on the floor with the proper grout spacing and count them up when you get a foot worth.(or two feet on a flat floor) as maybe by the time you get to 13 or 11 it is only one tile extra you got to figure with.. Basically the tiles go to a wall and if there is extra that is cut off and put on the next wall(like the tiles were bent) so it looks continuous.. Or just use your calculator and multiply 13 and 11(this sounds like you are only doing the floor?) and add 10% more tiles as a just in case thing and you will get the same batch color of all the tiles. Chances are you can return the unused ones for a full refund. Ask the sales people about that while you are buying them.
This company was founded in 1987, has so far has fixed assets of 10 million, mainly engaged in all kinds of spring manufacturing and processing, has 239 employees, the company has professional equipment professional and technical personnel, has a more professional production process, quality through professional certification system certification, in the company is a very professional spring manufacturer.
1. Manufacturer Overview
| Location | Sichuan, China (Mainland) |
| Year Established | 1987 |
| Annual Output Value | Above US$ 50 Million |
| Main Markets | Hong Kong; Macau |
| Company Certifications | ISO 9001:2008；CCC,CE |
2. Manufacturer Certificates
| a) Certification Name | |
| Range | |
| Reference | |
| Validity Period |
3. Manufacturer Capability
| a) Trade Capacity | |
| Nearest Port | Shenzhen Port, China |
| Export Percentage | 31% - 40% |
| No.of Employees in Trade Department | 239 People |
| Language Spoken: | English; Chinese |
| b) Factory Information | |
| Factory Size: | Above 26000.00 square meters |
| No. of Production Lines | Above 5 |
| Contract Manufacturing | OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered |
| Product Price Range | Average |
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Polished Porcelain Tile C-O38A15
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or L/C
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 x 20' FCL m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 M2 Per Month m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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