High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Pilate Serie CMAX26601
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Product Brief Introduction
High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Pilate Serie CMAX26601 is one of the most popular color in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones. No matter when, the white color is aways one of the classic colors in people's normal life.
Product Features
Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading
Only Grade AAA available
Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing
Competitive price
Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet
Fast delivery
OEM service could be offered
Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing
Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.
Product Specification
Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile
Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001
Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%
Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N
Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa
Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%
Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%
Edge Straightness: ±0.15%
Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3
Glossiness: 》 85 Degree
Resistance to Chemical: Class UA
Resistance to Staining: Class 3.
Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)
For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl
For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl
Production Line & Package
FAQ
1. For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 80*80 available?
—— Yes, 80*80 is available. In addition, the size 100*100 and 60*120 are also availbale.
2. What is the MOQ for this tile?
—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.
3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?
—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.
- Q: I want 12x12 tiles on the floor of the bathroom. But on the countertop (small, less than 6sqt) should I do large tiles, or smaller tiles of a similar style? And for the backsplash, should it be the same as the counter or the floor? Not so good with the design aspect. :)
- All your tile selections should co-ordinate but do not need to match exactly. I like the big tiles on the floor but not on the counters and back splash. The large tile will make those areas seem out of scale. I'd go with a similar tile but in a smaller size on the counter and back splash and see if you can find some accent tile to work into your design of the back splash. All it takes is a band of something like natural stone, glass tile or a textured tile to kick it up a notch and by using the more expensive tile sparingly, you're not increasing your costs but certainly increasing the eye appeal.
- Q: Is $4 a square foot a good price for labor? How about $1.49 for each 20x20 porcelein tile? Those are my quotes and want to see if I should do it. In Texas and they told me it will include taking out old carpet and laying down tile plus grout.
- About 1.25 a square foot to lay only..not material included..this is with minimum floor prep to do and if tiles are not cut diagonally...Diagonal laid tiles require alot more cutting and handling, layout etc..so is a little more for this...4.00 A square foot is way out of line...
- Q: i know NOTHING about how to do it or what i need. Could someone just list all the tools and equipment i would need to buy or rent to complete this job myself? ie, tiles, tile cutter, ?, ?, ?... etc. thanks.
- You'd probably need a tile cutter, wet-saw would be best if the job is medium or larger. Otherwise a manual tile cutter would work, just more labor intensive. Wet-saws can be bought at discount stores for as little as 20 bucks. Some tile nippers will help remove small bits of tile or small cuts, etc. Your prep work will call for maybe snap line to mark straight lines for tile placement. Using a stright-edge will also help keep your tile straight, and using the plastic grout inserts will ensure you keep a uniform thickness between your tiles (size of inserts depends on how wide your grout lines will be). You'll need a float or trowel to spread the mortar or mastic. Once it's spread, you set your tile one it while mortar is wet. You'll need a water bucket with large sponge to wipe down the tiles after they've been set. This not only cleans the tiles, but levels the grout to a final depth as well. Wipe it while wet and it's fairly easy - let it dry and it's almost impossible to smooth your grout. I suggest you search the web or get a book on tiling basics. The job is really straight-forward and fairly simple. Just familiarize yourself with the basic concepts and tips for doing the job. Tiling is far easier than most folks believe it to be. It's just a matter of rolling up one's sleeves and begining the job. Finally, you'll need six-pack of beer when the job is finished. Good luck
- Q: Why the tile is not clean clean
- To the hardware store to buy a bottle of hydrochloric acid, industrial used those, more than two, even when cleaning is not careful to get the hands of no problem, and to ensure that your tiles bright as new.
- Q: I am am re-tiling the kitchen counter. Please help. Thanks.
- I tile every day of my life, and usually hang out in DIY. Tile spacers come in two sizes, 1/4 and 1/8. For a counter top I suggest 1/8. You already know they look like (+) signs, and many have rounded tips. They are also sold in what looks like a round CAP with the plus sign under that allows for corner spacing and alignment. I do not use corners specifically, in laying the spacer flat, primarily through experience, but many suggest that method. You would set a piece of tile, then another in close proximety, using the spacers to align and keep the tiles at an exatc distance from each other. The spacer also makes a great scoop for wiping out excess mortar or mastic that squeezes up into the grout lines. I suggest 1/8 for countertops because of the purpose of the top and having the least amount of absorbent material, against the greater flat/flush surface that a counter top should be. Without knowing at all, your tile, or design, I also prefer a tile style that has bullnose sold in the same style allowing a back splash, and counter top edge/facing. I can't recall the name of REVERSE bullnose, but it would be used where the countertop, butts/meets the back splash. You may get suggestions that ramble, as I am, about sealing the grout, and you should be using a poly blend mortar and grout anyway. I'm not strictly opposed to sealers, but they do become a regular, life long process, and I am opposed to any surface finishes that come in contact with food. Obviously cutting boards work. Steven Wolf Just my two sense
- Q: Is it hard to fit tile around the toilet? Should I start there first?
- It doesn't matter that it is peel and stick. The proper way is to remove the toilet and reinstall it over the tile. As to where to start, find the center of the room by measuring off of the perpendicular walls. Use a string line to mark your floor. Where the lines intersect is the center. The lines must be at right angles. Dry lay one row of tiles in each direction first, if you end up with small cuts adjust your layout so you do not end up with less than half a tile, or to hide small tiles in the least noticeable area. I know this sounds like a lot of work but it really not it just take a few minutes. You will end up with a professional looking installation. The first tile is key if you place it crooked the hole floor will be off.
- Q: i want to use broken tiles for flooring in the balcony. what is the procedure?? and how do i start??please suggest.
- I suggest that you first prep and fill your concrete and let dry. Next you should lay out some tile pieces on an area near your starting point fitting the pieces together like a jigsaw puzzle. Next spread some tile mastic over an area equal to the size of the area where you have laid out tile pieces that fit together. Next, quickly set the tiles in the mastic in the same pattern that you had them laid off to the side leaving at least about 1/8th gaps between the tile pieces. When you are finished, scrape off any mastic that does not have tile set in it. Repeat this process until you completely cover your floor. Allow to dry for a day and then fill the cracks with grout. Allow the grout to dry for a day and then do an acid wash to remove the grout residue.
- Q: I want to install a towel hook in my bathroom, but it is all ceramic tile, including the walls. Adhesive doesn‘t work. Is there any way to put screws in the tile with out cracking the tiles? Thanks.
- They make drill bits specifically for tile. They have a sharper point than the normal masonry bits. You can drill through the tile and then into the wall. Make sure that the anchor is in the drywall and not just the tile, any weight on the tile itself will eventually pull it off the wall. Small toggle bolts work, but they require a larger hole to be drilled. Make sure you do not tighten whatever you use too much and crack the tile. The very best thing you could do would be to put screws into a stud behind the drywall, but finding one can be extremely difficult under tile. You don't want to use a hammer drill like you would in drilling into concrete or mortar, the percussion would break the tile, a regular drill will work fine.
- Q: The difference between tiles and tiles.
- When firing two different temperatures, As the variety of tiles on the market now, businesses in order to reduce the cost of quality are mostly poor, so I personally think. Often the tiles on the market are stronger than the tiles.
- Q: We grouted the tile, and also had a border tile up.. the border is decorative and has some texture to it.We did wipe off the excess as we grouted. The next day tho, my brother sealed it, before making sure all the dust was off.. now there is some grout dust sealed onto the border tile. I scrubbed with a toothbrush, and managed to get some of it off.. but not all.Is there anything I can do to remove the grout, or even the seal, without ruining the finish on the tile??
- If the dust is right on the surface of the tile, use an acid to remove it such as CLR purchased at your grocer or white vinegar, which if the grout dust is thin, will also dissolve it. The layer of silicone sealant is so thin that the CLR or white vinegar will penetrate it easily and the grout will dissolve. The surface of the tile will not be attacked by CLR or white vinegar. If the dust in in the grout or if the grout is uneven, Dust, or even imperfections such as ridges, can easily be smoothed out in tile grout. Take a sheet of 120 grit sand paper and fold it back several times until it forms a rounded edge suitable to sand on the tile grouting. Sand out the dust or imperfections with that sand paper. This is commonly done in tiling installations where some imperfection is present. You can either leave as is after sanding or reskim a coat of grout over and then reseal.
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High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Pilate Serie CMAX26601
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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