• Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60F/60D System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60F/60D System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60F/60D System 3
Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60F/60D

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60F/60D

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60F/60D is one of the most popular color of Glazed Porcelain Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile,

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60F/60D

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series CS60F/60D

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

3. What's the characteristics about porcelain tiles and glazed tiles?

 

Glazed tiles are colorful, the effect is rather diverse, stain-slip, abrasion resistance but worse than the porcelain tiles. Long-term use may wear a large surface; porcelain tiles have the higher degree, long hard wear surface. Good performance and stable cleanup (before playing the best times to use the wax to improve stain resistance). 

Q: Would they be easy to remove and not damage the floor (ugly linoleum) when I have to move out at the end of the year?
Peel and stick tiles are supposed to stick. They don't always stick very well but if they do you might have some trouble getting them or the adhesive off the original floor. I wouldn't do this. All kinds of vinyl flooring are intended to be more or less permanent, not something you take with you when you move. You could get a sheet of vinyl and put it on the floor, sticking it down at the edges with double sided tape. You could get a piece of carpet, or carpet tiles. But honestly, you are in temporary accommodation. Can't you live with what's there for this relatively short time?
Q: Our kitchen has vinyl tile squares from the 70‘s for the floor. Underneath that is terrazzo (sp?) and nothing else. They are proving to be a massive pain in the butt to remove so I was wondering if we even really need to. They are very thin and very stuck. Can we just skip tearing them out and go ahead with the new ceramic tile install?
My vinyl floor was really stuck too, so when I wanted the floor tiled, the tilers just cut plywood to screw into the floor on top of the vinyl, then installed the tiles. Ceramic on top of vinyl is a no-no.
Q: Can I also use thin set to grout my tiles on counter? I‘m using white glazed ceramic tiles 4x4. If not what should I use? Please help
Thin set is used only for setting or adhering the tiles to your substrate. If its just a basic, white , soft bodied 4x4 Unsanded grout must be used. The sand (in thin set) and the small joint used will not adhere properly and shrink and fall out. Unsanded is made to get down into the joints.The sand in thin set is more of a silica sand. If its a a hard bodied tile and is a bit thicker than a standard tile a bigger joint and sanded grout must be used. Thats 1/8 to 1/2 joint size. There is more sand and the bigger joint will adhere and not shrink ( if the proper amount of water is used in the grout) and will harden just as a cement based product should. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: How can I find out how many tiles I need to buy?
Measure and figure out the square footage of your kitchen floor.
Q: What does the thinset and grout do to tiles when installing them?
The thin set ( either a grey is what adheres the tile to the substrate your bonding to.It is also used as a filler when setting a cement board down to the floor. This ensures there is no voids between the sub floor and the cement board to make a solid base for tile. The grout is to fill the space between the tiles to help support the tile and to prevent dirt between the needed space for tiles. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: We have ceramic tile on the wall in the bathroom with a few tiles of color. Hate to change whole bathroom.
After 19 years as a hard surface flooring contractor, I have to agree with the last 2 answers. Your tile has been fired in a kiln baking on the color. And as stated, the epoxy paints are a quick fix, but don't last. Sorry to say, time to re-tile....
Q: I need either of two types of tile one was a sheet of multicolor mosaic tiles the other is a creamy colour with a beige sort or swirly thing going through it
Matching dis-continued tile can be a big problem..This is why whenever I do a tile job I leave extra or open boxes behind...The only thing i can say is check every tile store you can find.....Perhaps one has an odd lot left of leftovers...If you know who made the tiles that would help the search....If you E-mail me a photo to my profile I will take a look around my area when I am at the tile stores...Usually shipping can be arranged.
Q: We recently had new porcelain tile installed on our guest bath floor, and we‘d like to clean it regularly without harming the tiles and grout. The tile installer had no recommendations about this process, nor did the tile company where we made the purchase. Researching this info is very confusing. Some sites recommend using only a wet mop, while others claim that vinegar diluted in water is appropriate; others advise using some type of manufactured cleaning product. We know that regular sweeping is necessary, but we‘re unsure which products to use to protect our new floor. If you suggest a wet mop, please advise which is best: Shark, Eureka, Bissell, etc. Thanks for any detailed advice you can provide.
The number one thing to assist in keeping your floor clean and the grout is a tile and grout sealer. the best one ive used is called 511 impregnator by Miracle Sealents . It is a polymerized silicone which means it seals the pores of stone or tile but also lets it breathe if moisture wanted to come up from below. Other sealers are a coating which down the line could actually trap dirt. After you seal the floor you can poor water on the surface and it will just bead and not sink in to the grout or tiles. you want to apply it maybe once evry six months and they also sell a tile and porcelain cleaner which is a mild soap. This is available at Home depot . Robby Robinson
Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q: IAM REDOING MY KITCHEN FLOOR. IS PEEL STICK TILE GOOD FOR THE PROJECT N WILL IT LAST? THANKS
They work just fine and they last a long time, if they didn't they wouldn't still be selling them. I've used them quite a few times and they look great. You need to follow the instructions and make sure you use a sizing over the bare floor or the glue dries out and the tiles can come up. Make sure you check the run number on the boxes so the color matches correctly and look at the arrows on the back of the tiles and keep them going the same direction. Also make sure you but them together tightly along the edges so you don't have seams that can get water under the tile. Use a utility knife to cut them and start your layout from the center of the room so you can use the cut pieces on the opposite walls and have less waste. Good luck.

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