• FSK Roofing Insulation Adhesive Heat Insulation Materials System 1
FSK Roofing Insulation Adhesive Heat Insulation Materials

FSK Roofing Insulation Adhesive Heat Insulation Materials

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1. Description:

FSK7180 is the most popular laminated thermal insulation sheeting for covering ducts and pipes wrapped up by a thermal insulator such as glass wool and rock wool, PU foam and other insulation to protect them against vapor moisture in order to work more effectively, includes an reflective aluminum sheet and a fiberglass network disposed on and over a surface of the aluminum sheet

2. Construction & Benefits:

Reflective Aluminum Foil Lined With Kraft and Reinforced by fiberglass from 3 directions make this products durable. This Kind of FSK have more fiberglass as Scrim. So that thisFSK 7180 have more strength than FSK 7160

Aluminum foil which is a good barrier to moisture, rust and the air, and friendly to environment, good conductivity from the aluminum layer eliminates the electrostatic effect easily as exposure and kraft being liner to rise the strength, they sandwiched together through polyethylene as adhesive.

l High performance cost ratio: reasonable price and professional service.

l Environment friendly: it does not contain any hazardous or harmful materials.

l Convenient to use, easy to be folded into various shapes according to actual needs.

l Better resistance and tenacity according to glass fiber within.

l Reduces heat loss in winter, heat gain in summer.  

l Not effected by moisture and humidity.

l No special handling or breathing protection required.

3. Application:

It could be used as reflection, packing paper, moisture proof, radiant barrier and easy to fold as your need.

1. As a heat insulation materials in car, train, roof and wall, also been attached to glass wool blanket, rock wool board, mineral wool for get better performance.

2. A laminated thermal insulation sheeting. for covering ducts and pipes wrapped up by a thermal insulator such as glass wool and rock wool, PU foam and other insulation to protect them against vapor moisture in order to work more effectively.

3. As a sound absorber in KTV room, cinema, opera house, factory and other building.(only indicates 7160P, 7150P)

4. Package of industrial products and other place that you want to use.

4. Dimension/Size

(1) Roll width: 1000mm, 1200mm and 1250mm

(2) Roll Length: 50m, 100m, 200m, 500m, 1000m, or upon request.

(3) Core I. D.: 3"(76mm+/-1)

5. Similar products & guide

(1) DFC1001: Double sided aluminum foil supply better perfomance and function.

(2) FSK7160-P, perforate the FSK7160 as to absorb acoustic

Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.
Q: Help please, this home had a water pipe from meter brake in the basement as it was unoccupied/empty, the owner/builder replaced all the drywall, insulation, flooring, carpet, tile, roof, windows, hot water tank, furnace, bathroom and kitchen cabinets, new paint on all, basement ceiling was spray painted black (to hide something or to seal it?). the neighbor says the home was gutted and mold tested three times, its completely redone basically a new home inside, feedback please, it "looks" great
If everything has been replace, and fixed. I wouldn't worry. If the mold has been properly sealed and taking care of. You should be fine. But If you have any doubts trust your instance.
Q: Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.
we live in the desert, and got our roof coated, and instantly noticed the difference, it is much more insulated, and provides protection against leak (which was the main reason we had it done)
Q: Does snow on the roof help or hurt my heating bill?
To building professionals, it means you are properly insulated. It does help a bit, in that without it, you'd be exposed to cold winds, which are worse in removing heat from the house. Typically, we like to see (and count on) some snow in how we design houses and size the structural elements of the house & roof. If you are talking over about 3', though, we might be getting nervous about the weight. Each city/area requires that we deal with normal snow loads of that area. But 3' deep means there's about 180 pounds per sq foot of weight on your roof. About that point, I get up there and remove most of it (I leave about 12" thick). Still same on the thermal characteristics but safer on structural. .
Q: p/t deck on a commercial rubber roof do we need closed cell insulation under deck to protect rubber?
First I would put some walk pads down, I don't know if you can purchase them at your local home center. There should be a specialty store that sells vinyl siding they should have them they are about two foot by two foot rubber squares that have dots on them they look like suction cups. Place these pads dots down so that water will drain under the pads, then place a piece of 2" x 8" about 16" long of p/t blocking on top, this will help transfer the load of the deck on the rubber walk pad on the rubber roof. Place the pads and blocks where ever you place your 4" x 4" s You are now ready to start framing the deck. GOOD LUCK!!!
Q: I live in the top most floor of a flat. Is it worth to insulate the roof (from inside) with styrofoam(thermocole) to reduce the airconditioning load. Is it really economical with respect to cost of insulation and savings gained? Any experiences?
if u mean roof as just below the shingles this is not recommended as it will cause the shingles to become very hot and prematurely fail,,the best way to lower the heat in an attic is ventilation,,if u have an attic its best to insulate the floor of the attic and lots of ventilation
Q: Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?
Closed cell spray foam applied to the inside of your roof sheathing will work just fine. It needs to be installed by a specialty contractor. Good Luck
Q: Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q: Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?
that is being done now and is called solar heat where dark panels are installed on a roof and the collected heat is drawn into the home via a liquid medium. The alternative of which you speak: between the insullation and roof ,,is just not practical to build. nor would it provide a greater heat than the aforementioned.
Q: What's better- to lay out roof insulation in an old house or to get it blown in?
Blown in. It's better and also cheaper to have the insulation blown in. It's better because the insulation will go around wires, ductwork, and pipes much easier. It can get into nooks and crannys easier. It's much quicker also.

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