FSK Roofing Insulation Adhesive Heat Insulation Materials
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1. Description:
FSK7180 is the most popular laminated thermal insulation sheeting for covering ducts and pipes wrapped up by a thermal insulator such as glass wool and rock wool, PU foam and other insulation to protect them against vapor moisture in order to work more effectively, includes an reflective aluminum sheet and a fiberglass network disposed on and over a surface of the aluminum sheet
2. Construction & Benefits:
Reflective Aluminum Foil Lined With Kraft and Reinforced by fiberglass from 3 directions make this products durable. This Kind of FSK have more fiberglass as Scrim. So that thisFSK 7180 have more strength than FSK 7160
Aluminum foil which is a good barrier to moisture, rust and the air, and friendly to environment, good conductivity from the aluminum layer eliminates the electrostatic effect easily as exposure and kraft being liner to rise the strength, they sandwiched together through polyethylene as adhesive.
l High performance cost ratio: reasonable price and professional service.
l Environment friendly: it does not contain any hazardous or harmful materials.
l Convenient to use, easy to be folded into various shapes according to actual needs.
l Better resistance and tenacity according to glass fiber within.
l Reduces heat loss in winter, heat gain in summer.
l Not effected by moisture and humidity.
l No special handling or breathing protection required.
3. Application:
It could be used as reflection, packing paper, moisture proof, radiant barrier and easy to fold as your need.
1. As a heat insulation materials in car, train, roof and wall, also been attached to glass wool blanket, rock wool board, mineral wool for get better performance.
2. A laminated thermal insulation sheeting. for covering ducts and pipes wrapped up by a thermal insulator such as glass wool and rock wool, PU foam and other insulation to protect them against vapor moisture in order to work more effectively.
3. As a sound absorber in KTV room, cinema, opera house, factory and other building.(only indicates 7160P, 7150P)
4. Package of industrial products and other place that you want to use.
4. Dimension/Size
(1) Roll width: 1000mm, 1200mm and 1250mm
(2) Roll Length: 50m, 100m, 200m, 500m, 1000m, or upon request.
(3) Core I. D.: 3"(76mm+/-1)
5. Similar products & guide
(1) DFC1001: Double sided aluminum foil supply better perfomance and function.
(2) FSK7160-P, perforate the FSK7160 as to absorb acoustic
- Q: No insulation was installed under roof of my 2 story home. Im not rich but looking for info on installing about 450 ft. up there.
- Based on the geography you are put up insulation rates would differ, I would suggest initially you just call Insulation contractors who offer free home energy audits and ask them to give their estimate , based on the rates you choose one which suits your budget. Usually type of insulation you choose determines your rate, so do a little homework on it
- Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
- You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.
- Q: Like how does it get put in your roof?I am doing this energy efficient house.Other Questions:What is an Eave?Whats the roof on top of a patio called?What does orientation mean?What are the good things about French doors?
- go into your attic and pull the insulation out from around the vents that you have the problem with. Then take some standard insulation and fill in around the vents.
- Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
- Good question and I do not know the answers. For the fire issue, call your local fire department and chat them up. Then call your building inspector and talk with him. If he's been around awhile he may have seen it done before and have some information on how it has worked out or what are must do's.
- Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?
- You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.
- Q: weather stripping/ foam strip?
- Those foam strips they sell you to go under the ridge caps will eventually dry out, blow out, and be hanging all over the place. Caulking won't fill a 5/8's gap to keep the wind/rain out, and tar has no place whatsoever on a metal roof, you'll get it all over everything, and either one will look like ****. The best ridge cap has to be custom made and cut to fit. I use a 12" wide X 10' strip, bent in half to pitch, and then turn down 90 degrees on the edges, whatever the rib height is, usually 5/8". Hold the ridge cap in place on the ridge and mark where the ribs are, then notch out for the ribs so that the cap sits flush over the ribs and down on the flats, punch holes and screw down thru the tops of the ribs. It's a little time consuming but it makes for a good looking finished product that won't wear out.
- Q: Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
- We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
- Q: I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.
- Your best angle is to go with blow in fiberglass. ownes corning and Johns mansville both make good blow in fiberglass. Menards and Home depot in our area will lend you a blow in machine for free but make sure you have 2 people to run it and that you have a TIGHT sealed face mask for the guy in the attic along with safety goggles. No way around it either that guy in the attic is gonna get itchy, so expect that now. I put blow in cellulose over my attic fiberglass bats to bring it up to R-50 but i regret it now. I should have stuck with fiberglass. I did some research after the fact and there is some flammability issues with the cellulose i used and on top of that it is seriously dusty so i cant store anything in the attic space anymore. Cellulose was cheaper and the "green" choice but if i could reverse time I would have gone fiberglass blow in.
- Q: Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?
- depending on where you live,if possible,r30 fiberglass or blown in either is the standard around here,and,for sure never block your ventilation,you need the air in your attic,freezing cold attics don't make you cold if you're properly insulated
- Q: I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?
- If you have clear access to your rafters, the best insulation possible (after installing your vent baffles) is sprayed on foam. I didn't say polyurethane foam on purpose, as there is now a soy based foam available with exactly the same working and thermal characteristics as the petro-poly goop, with none of crude oil. But i digress. Sprayed on foam has the advantage of not only thermal insulation but it also seals everything that it comes in contact with, thus stopping any air movement, something that no fiberglass or extruded polyurethane could ever do. Industry experts are still debating this but, it looks like 1 inch of sprayed on foam (with it sealing qualities) does as much, if not more, than 3 1/2 inches of fiberglass and, foam will never sag or absorb moisture like glass does. Fill your rafter spaces and gloat to the neighbors when your bills come in. :)
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FSK Roofing Insulation Adhesive Heat Insulation Materials
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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