Factory Directly Polished PorcelainTile From CNBM
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1324.8
- Supply Capability:
- 1324800 m²/month
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Specifications
China polished porcelain tile
Size : 600 x 600 cm, 800 x 800 mm
Surface:Nano polished finish
Water absorption:< 0.2 %
CE&ISO
China polished porcelain tile
Product Description
Basic Information :
tile type | Porcelain tiles, porcelain polished, floor tiles |
certificate | CE, ISO9001 |
inished | Nano finish, matte finish, semi polished |
Size | 60x60 80x80 |
vailable in | many designs, size, colors |
Features:
1) Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality
2)Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, building exterior,
3)Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable
4)Material: porcelain
5)Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements
6)Available dimensions
Material | Porcelain |
Dimension | 600x600 300x600 300x300mm |
Packing | Paper packing and wooden pallets |
Finish | polished finish with superglossy |
Usage | Floor and wall |
It’s good for hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall, big project etc
We have many different color and different design for you to choose. If you want to know more about us, go on
web please there are many new products showing on our web.
Our products are good quality with reasonable price.
We have CE & ISO9001, SASO for most of our tiles
Specification and technology information:
· NANO polished
· Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">
· Price terms:FOB Foshan
· Delivery:within 15~20 days after 30% deposit received
· Payment:T/T,L/C
· CE mark,ISO certificate
- Q: Home selection tiles, which brand to choose that good?
- Shuangjia tiles, landscapes edge tiles, Tao Marshal tiles are all very good, inexpensive, quality Ye Hao, I was doing tile workers, often posted tiles, all brands of tiles are used, these people brand is more cost-effective of
- Q: What should you pay attention to when installing tiles?
- Decoration is sure to follow the procedures, the installation of the tiles to the base to do real, the mortar filled, so uniform.
- Q: We‘re renovating an old house, and the ceramic tile on the bathroom walls is just awful. I‘d like to replace the wall tile with beadboard. The tiles appear to be mortared directly onto the drywall. Is it a good idea to install the beadboard directly over the ceramic tile? Or should we chip of the tile or remove the lower portion of the drywall? I‘d like to do this as easily as possible, but not at the risk of shoddy workmanship.Also - all the beadboards I‘ve looked at are either painted or primed on the front surface, with a bare wood surface on the rear (glued to the wall). Is it advisable to paint/prime the rear surface as well before installation? With all the steam and moisture in a bathroom, I can envision the panels buckling. Is there a particular paint/primer that seals off from moisture particularly well?
- I'm just a DIYer but I've laid some tile and installed beadboard (both the panels and the planks). I am getting ready to do exactly what you ask about.. vering tile with beadboard. In my situation I have a single row of tiles along the floor and then they run up and around the tub into the large field. That field is staying, for now. My issue is if I leave the tiles, which I am leanng towards, how do I frame out arund them. The tiles along the floor aren't a big deal, I'll just fir out from the top but along the vertical row I need to figure out a good looking transition and trim....but there's no reason you can's cover the tile if the surface is sound, and the area is dry. You are probably using the panels because you need to glue directly to the tile...and there may be some buckling, not because its a bathroom but just because this material can buckle. The panels are a better choice, imo, because the are thicker and have some adjustment to them. They aren't hard to cut or install and I think they just look better. You probably don't need to seal the individual boards, but as others have noted, a coat of something, anything really, on the backside of the panels won't hurt. Balance that, however, against the loss of adhesion for your glue.
- Q: i know NOTHING about how to do it or what i need. Could someone just list all the tools and equipment i would need to buy or rent to complete this job myself? ie, tiles, tile cutter, ?, ?, ?... etc. thanks.
- You'd probably need a tile cutter, wet-saw would be best if the job is medium or larger. Otherwise a manual tile cutter would work, just more labor intensive. Wet-saws can be bought at discount stores for as little as 20 bucks. Some tile nippers will help remove small bits of tile or small cuts, etc. Your prep work will call for maybe snap line to mark straight lines for tile placement. Using a stright-edge will also help keep your tile straight, and using the plastic grout inserts will ensure you keep a uniform thickness between your tiles (size of inserts depends on how wide your grout lines will be). You'll need a float or trowel to spread the mortar or mastic. Once it's spread, you set your tile one it while mortar is wet. You'll need a water bucket with large sponge to wipe down the tiles after they've been set. This not only cleans the tiles, but levels the grout to a final depth as well. Wipe it while wet and it's fairly easy - let it dry and it's almost impossible to smooth your grout. I suggest you search the web or get a book on tiling basics. The job is really straight-forward and fairly simple. Just familiarize yourself with the basic concepts and tips for doing the job. Tiling is far easier than most folks believe it to be. It's just a matter of rolling up one's sleeves and begining the job. Finally, you'll need six-pack of beer when the job is finished. Good luck
- Q: I need to take a tile that is on the wall under my bathroom sink cabinet to use it to replace some visible tiles. I know it‘s possible to remove the old damaged tiles, but obviously I don‘t want to damage the ones that I‘m going to use to replace the bad ones.
- You can remove bathroom tile with a grout saw or grout removing bit for a Dremel-type tool. You then get in behind it and hammer it out with a hammer and a cold chisel (a cold chisel is a type of chisel - not a refrigerated one). Once you remove the tile, the hard part is going to be cleaning it up. You have to remove the adhesive from the back and it's pretty monotonous and will send dust everywhere, so do this outside. You are going to lose a few tiles though until you get the hang of it. It largely depends upon how much adhesive was put onto the wall first. Good luck.
- Q: I need either of two types of tile one was a sheet of multicolor mosaic tiles the other is a creamy colour with a beige sort or swirly thing going through it
- Rose, You might get lucky and find them if you Google it. Only 3 years old, you might find them somewhere out there. Good Luck !!!
- Q: We just bought an old house and the previous owners did a really poor paint job. I scratched off some paint on the tiles in the breakfast nook and the original tile looks really nice. I want to remove the rest of the paint without damaging the tiles.
- Providing the tile you are discribing is a fired material, you can't hurt it with almost any chemical. Think of the glazed top of the tile as being a glass surface. An exception might be if the glaze has craze lines in the surface. Colors from paint spatters can find their way into these cracks and are almost impossible to get out. SO test the chemical in a small area first. Some paints will not be easily effected by thinners or mineral spirits .you may have to try Turpentine or equal. Acetone is stronger yet. It's the base for fingernail polish remover with a little oil smell good added. A small razor blade paint scraper is also handy. When using a razor make sure first that it dosn't leave a silver like scratch mark on the surface. This is the information that I found at the site below. I bought big bottles of cheap fingernail polish remover. Worked like a charm. I also used the finest grade of steel wool. And I used a plastic scraper so as not to scratch the surface. Hope this helps!! Have fun!!
- Q: I absolutely hate the tile in our main bath, its coming up and in a few places there is no grout, so its basically looks awful. The bathroom is my dogs fav place to be and i am constantly sweeping the gobs of hair that get in the cracks. Are there any suggestions for an eay fix? How much trouble would it be to just fill the cracks with grout and put stick tile over it? Would that be a ridiculous idea?
- .. The tile is loose.. hence the grout coming up and tile.. No real easy way to fix..One POSSIBLE solution is to remove all loose tile.. Some may be still bonded. Fill with a self leveling compound and redo with a self stick tile ( this is a temporary fix) and let the dogs have the room back. Or put a sheet vinyl down over the repaired surface using a floating type vinyl that requires no glue. Best is to take it all out and start new, using new tile or sheet vinyl.. GL
- Q: What is the basic role of tile glue?
- The basic role is clearly posted more solid brick can not afford to brick Baidu experience - tile adhesive construction method
- Q: i have just put down adhesive floor tiles in my bathroom, do i now need to use an extra sealant/pvc wash to seal the joins between the tiles as my kids enjoy splashing in the bath and i dont want the floor ( pvc sealed boards ) to lift if water gets in the gaps?
- Sure, if you have gaps i recommend sealing the joints. If the joints are just seams you should be fine, and won't need to seal.
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Factory Directly Polished PorcelainTile From CNBM
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1324.8
- Supply Capability:
- 1324800 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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