Digital glazd full polished tiles porcelain looks like marble prices 8003

Digital glazd full polished tiles porcelain looks like marble prices 8003

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1076 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Quick Details

Type:	Tiles	Place of Origin:	Fujian China (Mainland)	Brand Name:	SLD
Model Number:	8003	Size:	600 x 600mm,800 x 800mm	Material:	Porcelain Tiles
Usage:	Interior Tiles	Function:	Acid-Resistant,Antibacterial,Heat Insulation,Non-Slip,Firebrick,Wear-Resistant	Surface Treatment:	Glazed Tiles
Feature:	Glazed Metallic Tiles	Color Family:	Blacks,Blues,Browns / Tans,Grays,Oranges,Purples / Lavenders,Reds / Pinks,Whites,Yellows / Golds	Tile Type:	Floor Tiles
color:	polished	thickness:	9.8mm	carton weight:	30KGS
packing:	carton with pallet with fumigation	payment terms2:	L/C at sight	payment terms1:	30% deposit,balance against the copy of BL
surface color:	polished	finished:	3d printing	Scope:	bathroom floor,kitchen floor ,living room
design:	we can do any design accord to customer need

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Carton with pallet 4pcs/ctn,30kgs 1.44m2/ctn 1900ctn/TEU about 1296SQM
Delivery Detail:	20 days

Specifications

1.Size: 600 x 600 mm
2.Thickness: 9.8 mm
3.W/A: E<0.5%
4.Picking: 4pcs/ctn

Inkjet Full Polished Glazed Ceramic Tile tiling

1. Product description:

Model No.:	8003
Tile type:	Full polised galzed porcelain tile
Material:	porcelain
Size(MM) :	600x600mm
Water Absorption:	<0.5%
Color:	Available in all designs and colors
Usage:	Used in floor
Payment:	T/T or L/C at sight
Packing:	Packing: 4pcs/ 1.44M²/ 20KGS/CTN 900ctns/ 1296SQM/ 20GP with pallet
Surface treatment:	Glazed or polished surface according to difference material
Remark:	All kind of designs can be produced according to our product list

3. Product features:

1) Professional 3D inkjet floor tiles manufacturer
2) Anti-acid and anti-alkali
3) Durable
4) Pollution free
5) Easy to clean, easy to pave
6) Customize any design you like.
7) The most competitive price.

8) Easy to install, anti-dust

4. Packing list

Sizes (mm)	PCS/CTN	SQM/CTN	KGS/CTN	CTN/CONT	KGS/CONT	SQM/20GP
600x600x9.8mm	4	1.44	30	900	27000	1296
800x800x9.8mm	3	1.92	43	630	27090	1209.6

Q:How about daily maintenance tiles?: "Tiles of the daily maintenance is very important, sum up a few points, I hope to help you: 1, the daily cleaning of tiles can be used detergent, soap and other cleaning. 2, with soap plus a little ammonia and turpentine mixture, cleaning tiles can make tiles more shiny. 3, polished tiles should be regularly waxing treatment, the interval is 2-3 months is appropriate. 4, brick surface, such as scratches, can be applied in the scratches toothpaste, wipe with a dry cloth can be repaired. 5, brick and brick cracks can be used from time to time with dirt to remove dirt, and then in the gap brush a layer of waterproofing agent, can mold growth. 6, tea, coffee, beer, ice cream, grease and other pollutants using sodium hydroxide or potassium bicarbonate solution. 7, ink, cement and other pollutants using hydrochloric acid, nitric acid and other dilute solution. 8, paint, paint and other pollutants use special cleaning agent. 9, rust can be washed with 2% oxalic acid solution to eliminate, and then wipe with water. With 3-4 tablets of vitamin C tablets crushed into powder, sprinkled on the floor tile surface, and then scrub with water several times, but also remove the rust stains. In the case of rust, can be 10% oxalic acid, citric acid and water mixture will dip rust at the wet, and then wipe with a thick salt again. If fresh lemons can be squeezed out of its juice drops on the rust stains rubbed by hand, repeated several times until the rust stains removed, and then washed with soap and water. 10, a variety of plastic can be used to remove the banana water, pure banana water is colorless transparent volatile liquid, a strong smell of banana, slightly soluble in water, soluble in a variety of organic solvents, flammable, mainly used for painting Of the solvent and diluent. "

Q:In my Bathroom, I want to update the tile. It‘s the small rough octagon shape in white w/black speckles. Grout is also white. I hate it, stays dirty. Thought about sanding it and putting a dye and sealer on it, but I dont know if this can be done. 2nd choice is replacing the grout w/black but I am back with the white tile, does anyone know if the sanding and dyeing it would work? I thought I would try this first, it would be cheap, because I have a sander and I can do it myself.. and thought I could maybe use the dye you use to dye clothes (possible?) and then just a polyurthane to seal. If I do anything else like, remove ceramic tile, this may be costly..Any suggestions?: If you are dealing with ceramic tile and you sand it, you will see the red clay backing come through. Don't do this. You will wind up replacing the tile anyway. If it is just the grout color you want to change, there is a grout colorant that you can purchase to dye the grout to what ever color you want. If the tile is also dirty, you will probably want to replace the tile as well. You can pull up the old tile, or you could put down a new subfloor and tile over that. Check with your local stores, Lowe's, Home depot, etc. You should be able to find tile at a good price and knowledgable people to help you with the project.

Q:I have a new bathtub with Durock cement board installed around it and I‘m ready for tile. I just got a guy out to give me an estimate for doing the tile work around the tub and he said the Durock would have to be primed first. I‘ve heard you‘re supposed to put the tile directly on the Durock, not paint it. Now I don‘t know what to do. Is he wrong? If he‘s wrong, do I hire someone else or just question him? He did another (non-tile related) job for me and did an excellent job, so I trust him, but I‘m nervous about this. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!: I don't see how priming it would have any advantage. I tiled over some a couple years ago and have had no problems at all. I would think the adhesion would be in question if you are basically adding a layer of paint in between. You don't prime concrete before you lay tile flooring so why would you do otherwise to a cement board? I would ask him for is reasoning behind it. If it sounds like BS and a way to add some time to the job hire someone else.

Q:a few tiles are cracked near the sink. How can i fix it temporarily ( is it worth it?) or should i replace the tiles or the whole thing? how would i go about doing that?: see if you can find new tile same color at store, then chip it out, buy some thin set or use liquid nails, then mix up a small amount of grout or buy the liquid squeeze out of a can grout,

Q:We are going to replace the bathtub that came with our house, built in 1986, but we can not decide whether or not to just get a regular bath combination shower or just the bathtub and tile the shower walls...any suggestions or experience with this that anyone would be able to recommend either way?: What type of flooring is in the room? Do you have another shower? I really like look of tile, but not cleaning it. I would recommend using a medium/dark grout.

Q:the tiles are laid down using thinset cement. Mastic not used.: After installing,,,and removing thousands of sq. ft. of tile, I suggest what the others have. Accept that the job will cause loss. It should be pretty obvious why, and I'll give you an abstract example. Once upon a time postage stamps needed to be moistened to stick. If you felt like you wanted to retrieve the stamp and just attempted pulling a dried stamp from an envelope your success rate would be minimal. The difference in this analogy and your situation is that you can't separate tile from mortar, from the sub floor by steaming and unless you flood the area for a good length of time the mortar won't separate either. An even more valid concern is,,, even if you managed some intact tile, you'd have to grind or chip the mortar from the unfinished side, possibly damaging or breaking those tiles you so wanted to save. No offense at all but tile is relatively inexpensive, but sadly rarely able to be matched over any long time span. Any tile job I've ever done includes no less than 3 extra cases of tile, over and above what I consider might be needed in 10 to 15% waste. Certainly if the tiles were expensive, rare, imported one of a kind, decorative, I understand perhaps wanting to salvage them, but you don't state the WHY of your Q, so I can't truly know. Steven Wolf (The Rev.)

Q:im looking for tips about PORCELAIN floor tiles.I read everywhere they can look like marble but without the maintenance issues, plus it is a harder material.I like the polished finishes .. and saw some samples of them.. rectified porcelain.I can‘t find much info on the net about its shape uniformity, but looks like they are kind of not so squared?I would like them big.. 24 inches, and spaced at the minimum which i think it is 1/8. But a few persons told me that is too close for porcelain and i should go with marble?The problem is that marble is much more expensive... so i don‘t know what to do.Are there brands of porcelain tiles known for their good uniformity... how should i shop for them.,? i don‘t know what to look for. please help.Please do not suggest any other type of flooring... im not interested. If porcelain is always not uniform, then what would the minimum spacing between tiles be so they look fine?Thanks a lot.: I'm not sure what you're looking at but all the porcelain tiles I've seen are square. All square. Very square. There should be no uniformity issues whatsoever. Go to a home improvement store and take a look. The tile type really has very little effect on spacing. However if you want 24 tiles I would suggest 1/4 grout lines at least. It will be extremely difficult to maintain a straight even grout line If you go 1/8. Imagine, if for some reason one tile was out of square a little or slightly offline (which does happen) the grout line would disappear completely. The grout would also be more likely to break if there was any movement in the floor. If you insist on 1/8 spacing, it can be done, but the results will be almost definitely poor.

Q:Over time the tiles in my apartment bathtub have turned yellow. It‘s not all of the tiles, just a few in the back/corner. I undoubtedly have hard water but I can‘t figure out why a few of these tiles are yellow. As far as I can tell, these are cheap plastic tiles (white). I have tried comet (with bleach), full strength bleach, vinegar/water solution, vinegar/baking soda, baking soda by itself, mr. clean magic eraser, and full strength CLR to no avail. The only thing that worked at all was using comet and scouring the tiles with steel wool. Although it scratched the surface, the actual scratch part wasn‘t noticeable. But there has to be an easier way than breaking my arm to get one tile cleaned. Any suggestions? If anyone wants I can email them a picture of the tiles.: try using Zud cleaner. found in Home Depot.

Q:I need to replace a broken tile. I understand how to grout and tile but I have always done large sections and rented a tile saw. Can I use a dremal tool or something like that to cut it so I do not have to rent a saw ?: dremel would take forever I used an angle grinder with an masonary wheel

Q:Can a ceramic wall tile be applied directly to a greenboard surface with mortar or is a cement backer board required?Thanks for your help: Yes you can just be patient and remove the loose tiles which should not be hard to do. The reason that they have turned loose is because of moisture behind the tiles. Be sure you have a good stable surface for the tiles that you put back to adhere to. You may have to lay a film of masonry of something to give you a solid surface to hold the replaced tiles. As for as glue, I would use a adhesive that is called F26 and it is multipurpose to reattach the tile. I will guarantee that those tile will never come off again.

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