• RN1 Indoor high-voltage current limit fuse System 1
RN1 Indoor high-voltage current limit fuse

RN1 Indoor high-voltage current limit fuse

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Scope of application

This product can be used in indoor system of AC 50Hz and rated voltage of 3~35kV to protect electric facilities and electric transformer from overlood or short circuit.


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Q:I have a 1982 Prelude, and everytime I try to connect my battery, the 55 amp main fuse (located in the engine wall by the negative battery cable) blows. Any ideas? Did I get a battery that is too big for the car?
Battery too big is not the problem. I am confused by the description of the fuse placement as I am not familiar with your particular auto but a typical installation would have the main fuse on the + side. Is it possible you are reversing the polarity by hooking + cable to the - of battery. Did this problem start with new battery?
Q:I need to get a ball park idea regarding fixing or replacing the cigarette lighter in my car--- 2005 Hyundai Accent specifically, but curious how much it would cost for any car. It is not a fuse problem--- when I was pulling my phone charger out, it ripped some component out with it (a metal ring and a smaller metal piece). If I try to plug something it, it sparks and caused my GPS unit to reset, etc.
My car is from the early 70s and replacing the the cigarette light was cheap. I bought a new one at auto zone for like 5 bucks and installed it in like 4 seconds. But im not sure how easy it is to replace them in new cars. Just make sure you get the right replacement. i made that mistake.
Q:A couple of years ago I installed after market speakers in the rear of my car and kept the stock speakers in the front. I connected an amp to the rear speakers. It was working fine but one day I drive my car and notice only the front speakers (the stock ones) are playing. I pop open the hood and notice the amp wire was disconnected from the fuse going into the battery. I reconnect them and turn on the stereo but still there is no sound to the rear speakers. I can hear the tweeters I have make a fuzzing noise, though. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem is?
Something electrical has happened with the amp. Since it was disconnected, there was likely a sudden instability in the electrical flow, at best only blowing a fuse, at worst blowing a critical internal component in the amp. Check all fuses, if you don't find any blown ones, check the ground cable. Check fuses for the car too, if the hot touched a direct ground, it may have popped one. If still nothing, you are likely looking at serious damage to the amp. If it smells like crispy, it is crispy.
Q:I'm currently in the market to purchase my first washer and dryer set for my family of 4. We are looking to spend no more than $1,500 on a complete set. What are your recommendations? Obviously we are looking for longevity in the set. We do between 4-6 loads per week. Thanks for your help!
If you want longevity and value get a traditional style of washer and dryer rather than the so-called high efficiency models. Most HE washers are not made with water-safe metals; they turn into electrodes in water that slowly fuses components together, turning an appliance that used to be a 10-15 year investment into a 4-5 year expense. LG and Samsung in particular are notorious for this. High-end brands like Miele and SpeedQueen are great, but they also cost a small fortune. The top-loaders that don't have a traditional agitator are notorious for tearing clothes and leaving large mechanical grease stains/burns from how they agitate and spin clothing. For the best bang for your buck, get a traditional top-loading washer with an agitator tower in the middle and a traditional matching dryer. As tempting as it can be to buy those swanky gloss-black or red numbers at the hardware store, even the most expensive models will not last longer than a decade. Besides, ***no one will see them but you!*** I have a Whirlpool set at home, and they work great. My parents have Kenmore, and it's the same deal. Both sets are a decade old and still trucking along.
Q:1. Protection against disease2. Communication between cells, tissues, and organs3. Oxygen transport4. Carbon Dioxide transport5. Buffer against pH changes6. Nutrient supply7. Tissue repair8. Transport of hormones, lipids, and fat soluble vitamins Hurry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
Protection Against Disease Blood Component
Q:I just purchased an corsair 750W power supply, and the input is mentioned as 90-264V 10A, Now on the plug that connects to wall socket to power it says 13A 250V (UK Pin) Now i am using it in asia, using an simple adapter but inorder to plug other things like speakers and screen i am buying an surge protector (spike guard).Now at what Amp shall i buy spike guard ? Rated 15A or 10A - As this is what available in my country. PS: The fuse power on the inbuilt fuse on the power plug is 13A. Also inform if i buy a 15A Spike guard and the usage say is only 10A is their a con like, smoking the pc components incase of sum overcurrent?
It is always ok if you have more Amps then needed. If you go under of what the devices needs then it will simply burn.
Q:Blown Kenwood KDC-P5028 CD Reciever?I have a Kenwood KDC-MP5028 CD player. I was installing the system and everything was going fine. The wiring harness has the yellow cable missing which I think the the 12v. I attatched a wire and hooked it all up and everything was working fine. When I pushed the unit into the dash the wire cameout and it touched the black ground wire. I heard a pop and noticed that the unit was smoking a little bit. Now my unit will not power back on. The fuse is still good so thats not the problem. The radio fuse is also intact. Does anyone know what the problem is? Is there an internal fuse I dont know about? Your help wil be much appreciated. Im also trying to avoid taking it to a repair shop because I know they are going to charge me an arm and a leg. Thanks, Johnnie
rutrn to where you bought it tell them its defective
Q:I don't want any theories or speculations. I want a real documented electronic device. Oh and no ancient astronaut theories either.
The relay was the first electonic- in a sense, component part other than switches and fuses, etc. It made modern telegraphy possible and evolved into the repeater- thus the relay- a remote controlled switch, was in effect the first ( Electronic) device, though not anything involving crystals, diodes, vacuum tubes etc. Morse devised the Relay as part of his telegraph system circa l844.
Q:I have a 96 Camry and it died on me Friday sputtered out when I started it the rmp's shot up then went down then I put it in drive and then died I put new battery on, new starter, alternator is good and new ignition switch and when I turn the key all that comes on is the lights and radio and when I turn the key it doesnt sound like its trying to start just nothing no click click click
you have an elecrical short stop changing fuses and locate short formerly you expend the vehicle or fry the computing device. Which fuse is blowing provides someplace to commence finding. it particularly is greater valuable hint than maximum electric powered problems provide you beginning out.
Q:I have a friend with a 1993 Chevy Lumina and it will not charge the battery for some reason. He just replaced it with a new alternator and had it checked to make sure it was good at the store he bought it. When we jump it off with another vehicle it cranks fine and runs.but then when you drive down the road it will die if you step on brakes.then try to crank it.and it is deadwill not crank.like a dead battery. We had the battery all charged up as the battery is only 1 year old. Even bought a new battery. Why won't this thing charge? It there some kind of other electrical component keeping it from charging properly? What about fuses or some other regulator or realy somewhere? The engine on it by the way is a v-6 and a 3.1liter.
There is an alternator fuse in the under hood fuse box . If that is not blown check the battery wire on the back of the alt for battery voltage .

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