• Electro Ceramics Made of Steatite System 1
Electro Ceramics Made of Steatite

Electro Ceramics Made of Steatite

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 Pieces pc
Supply Capability:
50000 Pieces per Month pc/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Ceramic materials are highly suitable for electrical insulation. This field covers a wide range of applications, from fuses, household appliances to heating elements. No other material group combines the properties of a high degree of heat resistance and electrical insulation as well as ceramics....

 

Fuses

*NH fuses

*DIN fuses

*Fuse tubes

*Chamber plates

*Household appliances

*Thermostat casings

*Switches

*Sockets

*Connecting parts

 

Resistors

*Profiled bodies

*Solid bodies

*Steel coils

*Spiral pipes

 

Electrical heating (electrical heating technology)

*Perforated strips

*Heating element supports

*Insulation beads

 

Q:I am having a hell of a time trying to find a 1.6 micro mini fuse for a circuit board with wire leads on them. I need ones that are fast acting (so far, I have only been able to locate slow)Is it possible that I can replace the 1.6 fast acting with a 1.5 fast acting? I have a 1.6 slow fuse with leads on them. But I heard that you shouldn't use a slow fuse with sensitive electrical components where there had been a fast acting fuse prior. (I would only be running at most 50w)Thanks for any help you may offer, I am much obliged
I'm sure that your 1.6a fuse will not be running at 1.6a, so I guess that a 1.5a fast fuse (Flink) would be ok, 0.1 amp is not a huge difference. Dont know about the wire leads, could you not fit a fuseholder instead and use this? maplin .uk/Module.aspx?Modu maplin .uk/Module.aspx?Modu
Q:If I drive my car at like 8pm my battery will be fine the next day. But if I don't drive after I get off work at 4 then the next day it won't start.I will have some power like the light under the hood. It always starts when I jump it.I had my alternator tested and it's fine. The same goes for my battery.Any ideas?
there has to be a short someplace ! if the starter gets a short it in then it will drain the battery because the hot cable runs down to the starter ! unhook the hot cable the night before and the next morning hook it back up and see if it starts !
Q:Hi guys, I just Blew my guitar amplifer fuse.because it was a unit from the US and Accidentally got the wrong converter here in Shanghai. It so hard looking for a fuse that has the EXACT inscription 2A 250Vall I can find is 2AL 250 Vis this the same type? And do you think the power outage could do some damgae to the amplifier components even after blowing the fuse? I used some emergency fuse to test.so far its working and there are signs of life from this babyany suggestions?perhaps Im jsut being too paranoid and OC?
L Fast acting. Must use same type.
Q:I have an old Lennox unit. The AC still runs fine. Heater quit on me back in March. not sure if the elements or what. winter coming soon and need to get this up and running again
I would first check the fuses, Had this problem once and found fuse blown, replaced and had not trouble for 2 years. Fuses in the panel were fast acting type, replaced with slo-blow fuses. You can buy you a multimeter for about $8.00 at many discount and hardware stores. Turn off the power to the unit, Place the multimeter to AC volts 500V scale and check to make sure you have no voltage on either side of fuses. Remove fuses one at time and check on ohms X 1 scale. You should have around 0 to 50 Ohms on meter, If you have infinity replace fuse or fuses and try. Would make sure to use slo-blo fuses, Much more expensive but will save money in long run. If fuse blows again probably bad element
Q:Every time I hook my hot to the amp it starts glowing and smoking. I tried changing from a 20 fuse to a 30 and it still glows and smokes.
First, NEVER USE A BIGGER FUSE, WHEN YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE!!!!!!! It's a very easy way to set a vehicle on fire. I've seen it, and it's not pretty. Can we/I have more details, vehicle, system components, with model numbers, what you have done prior to the installation the only thing I can think of, with the information provided, is you have the power and ground wires backwards like touching your batteries terminals together
Q:i checked the fuses, i had similar problems when i tried to install a stereo deck myself. Also my srs lights are on and my window does not open.
time for another car friend. don't mess with this as it is old. face it jap cars don't last forever. u no n japan they don't rebuild anything? everything is replaced every 100,000 km which is 66000 miles. ur car isn't designed to last. that is why every jap car in a wreck is totalled. the jap car co's make more money selling u a new car. so but another jap car. I don't want to catch u riding n a real car, like a 57 chevy or 67 mustang. I will pop u n tha haid an take it from ya.
Q:I just picked up my 1996 Jeep Cherokee from the shop. My mechanic fixed the ignition and a couple of other things, but now the power windows, blinkers, A/C and heat won't work. I checked the fuses, but they all appear to be fine. I'm gonna contact the guy tomorrow, but I just thought someone might have some insight. Thanks.
vfdsdfv
Q:For example:RresistorCCapacitorLinductorVtubeQtransistorIs there a complete list of normal component designations?
May be this will help you: ?A: Assemblies ?B: Transducers / Sensors / Detectors ?C: Capacitors ?D: Storage devices ?E: Miscellaneous ?F: Fuses ?G: Generator, battery pack ?H: Indicators, signaling devices ?J: Connector / connector pin Joining another connector (P) ?K: Relays ?L: Inductors and filters ?M: Motors ?N: Analogue devices ?P: Measuring / test point / connector plug ?Q: Transistors ?R: Resistors ?S: Switches, push buttons, emergency stops and limit switches ?T: Transformers ?U: Integrated circuits, Power converters, DC power supplies ?V: Electron vacuum tubes tubes ?W: Wires, conductors, power, neutral and earthing busses ?X: Terminal strips, terminations, joins ?Y: Solenoids, electrical actuators ?Z: Filters
Q:I was able to find out what the source of amperage draw was coming from, and it is the IOD. It is drawing 0.426 amps. The meter reads 0.923 and the Vehicle reads 0.497 without it installed. Generally, vehicles should have this amount to begin with correct? What could possibly be the issue with the IOD? Why is there an excess in amperage draw?
IOD stands for Ignition Off Draw, so obviously it will always exist on modern cars. There are things like clock, radio stations, etc., that always draws a small amount of parasitic current. I am not sure what the normal IOD draw should be, but is yours so much that the battery dies over night and won't start? If not, then forget about it. Try taking the battery cable terminal off a battery post and putting a test light across the gap. It is does not light bright, then it is probably too low of amps to worry about. But if it is too much, then you disconnect things one at a time, like stereo, to determine the cause.
Q:If every time I put a new fuse in my surround sub and switch on the power to the sub it instantly blows the fuse with a deafening 120Hz ripple even before I press the power button on the controller, which I should have to do before any sound comes out at all, what is the easiest way to diagnose which component has fried and made a short? Is there any way to test capacitors without power running to them?
If by surround sub you mean a dedicated amplifier and a subwoofer hooked to it: 1] Test the impedence of the subwoofer; if it is shorter that may be the sole problem [or it may have fired the amp]. Compare that with the specification value 2] You can measure caps with an ohmmeter [very crubdely, though, but likely well enough; see
Our company mainly produces 75% , 95% , 99% alumina, titanium, zirconium, steatite, magnesia, cordierite products which are widely used in metal welding, electronic conductor, mechanics, assembling, insulation, chemicals, instrument, textile, nuclear industry, aerial, as well as hairdressing field.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Jiangsu,China (Mainland)
Year Established 1999
Annual Output Value US$1 Million - US$2.5 Million
Main Markets North America; South America; Eastern Europe; Southeast Asia; Africa; Oceania; Mid East; Eastern Asia
Company Certifications GB/T19001-2000/ISO9001:2000Standard

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port Shanghai
Export Percentage 91% - 100%
No.of Employees in Trade Department 3-5 People
Language Spoken: English, Chinese
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size: 3,000-5,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines 7
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered; Buyer Label Offered
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products


Hot Searches