• ZBW SERIES COMBINATION TRANSFORMER SUBSTATION System 1
  • ZBW SERIES COMBINATION TRANSFORMER SUBSTATION System 2
ZBW SERIES COMBINATION TRANSFORMER SUBSTATION

ZBW SERIES COMBINATION TRANSFORMER SUBSTATION

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To meet requirement of urban network construction, ZBW series combination substation is designed by our company with its own advantage such as compact, complete unit, reliable and safe, convenient maintenance, artistic appearance and so on. It is applicable for the outdoor administration of power supply such as high building, residential area, stations and wharfs, ports, factory and park.complete unit, reliable and safe, convenient maintenance, artistic appearance and so on. It is applicable for the outdoor administration of power supply such as high building, residential area, stations and wharfs, ports, factory and park.complete unit, reliable and safe, convenient maintenance, artistic appearance and so on. It is applicable for the outdoor administration of power supply such as high building, residential area, stations and wharfs, ports, factory and park.complete unit, reliable and safe, convenient maintenance, artistic appearance and so on. It is applicable for the outdoor administration of power supply such as high building, residential area, stations and wharfs, ports, factory and park.

Type:  3 Blade Upwind

Rotor Diameter: 8.0 m

Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6 mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed:  3 m/s (6.7 mph)

Rated Wind Speed:  10m/s (22.4mph)

Rated Power: 10k Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 12k Watts

Cut-Out Wind Speed:  15m/s(33.5mph)

Timing manner: automatically adjust the windward angle

Overspeed Protection:  AutoFurl

Temperature Range:  -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)

Generator: Permanent Magnet Alternator

Output Form: 240 VDC /360VDC Nominal

Work principle and features

Working principle: Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems. Grid connect systems take the alternating current produced by the turbine directly to an inverter which controls and stabilises the alternating current and also provides numerous control elements for direct connection to the electricity grid.

Features : The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Property Department and thereby has totally independent property rights in China, resulting in the market leading position in wind to electrical energy conversion, technical design and efficiency. Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.

Applications and installations

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilisation of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.


Q:Hey all, I just bought a 1981 Subaru GL on Saturday--my first car, yay!Anyways the guy I bought it from said that the headlight fuse ocasionally blows out. Yep, its done it twice since I've had it.The first time I was driving and charging my phone in the cigarette lighter (maybe it can't handle everything at once?). Second time was two hours ago I went to start the car and the lights wouldn't come on.What's the underlying issue here? Fuses are cheap and easy to find but id rather fix it for good than having to buy a new set of fuses every couple if weeks.
Check your wiring harness. It can be shorting out if there is contact between two bare wires (rat damage) or a wire that is not grounded properly. Make sure nothing is stripped or bare, you should never be able to see through the plastic on wires. Make sure your battery is not corroded and grounded properly. Test light your harness to make sure the hots are hot and the nots are not. There is a lot of stuff on forums for wiring diagrams and such to make sure that no one pieced it together wrong or cut/spliced into something they shouldn't have. If your Lights are spliced with a higher voltage component the wires will get hotter than they were designed for and that will cause a fuse to burn out. Hope that helps. Follow the wires from the back of your headlight all the way to the firewall and make sure connection to battery is still good (will will likely have to pry apart that black slinky looking wire cover to make sure it's all good under the hood). Make sure to check for signs of pests!
Q:Causes 3 amps of current to flow to your stereo? Why is this a good thing?
If there is a 3 amp surge the fuse would melt, instantly stopping the current before your stereo is damaged.
Q:I Have an 01 mitsubishi galant GTZ and the right passenger side parking lights, (running lights) dont work. The dash lights also dont turn on. Now the fuse was blown and i replaced once i turned the lights on it would blow again. I asked around and i was told it was a short. How to fixx? Please help.
Check the wires from the assembly and work back from there. Good chance there is an exposed or frayed wire or wires. You may need to replace the entire light assembly itself.
Q:i'am searching for switches or components that act like breakers but for low currents like 5A.
I have (rarely) seen low-current circuit breakers in appliances and computer components. These are typically about half an inch in diameter, and mount in a round hole, with a protruding reset button. They can't usually be used as a switch, though. Just a resettable circuit breaker.
Q:i forgot to switch to 230v when plugging in my american desktop infrance, there was a pop, and now it wont start. did i completely breakit or is there a circuit breaker or something i can fix
Try a new power supply, and hope for the best. Unless it is an older computer,there may not be a fuse. Good power supplies have some ability to extinguish the arc that is generated when the fuse blows. Failure to select a proper voltage rating will mean a lot of transient energy is let through by arcing and may be a fire hazard. Short answer: Take it apart. Be careful, as there is a lot of stored electricity and can give you a jolt. I use rubber gloves and shower shoes on a rubber mat.
Q:I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring. When I first bought it, six months ago I replaced the fuse that powers the radio, trunk button, unlock/lock button, and rear view mirror light. I replaced it every two months but lately Ive had to replace it every other day! I have no clue whats going on or what I should do. Please help!
is this an OEM radio or an after market? do you have an Amp on the same circuit? Look at the power requirements for the raido if this is an after market, it may take more juice than what the fuse can deliver. *************************** DO NOT replace the fuse with a larger amp fuse. your car can catch fire because you just over loaded the circuit **************************
Q:I looked inside the tv and there in no burn marks or components. What would cause the fuse to blow out. Can anyone help me?
Something inside of the set is shorted out. This can happen even though nothing appears burnt. My guess is that it is something in the power supply.
Q:I have a 2000 Grand Am GT (3.4l V6), and my power steering has been messing up. I have replaced my rack and pinion, and I have replaced the power steering pump, and it's still not working. I made sure there was no air in the res, when I put the new pump on, and it's still not steering right. The car has an electrical steering assist, and I was wondering, where would the fuse be for that, if there is one?
Ask someone to turn the steering wheel while you listen at the steering pump. If you can hear the pump make a whine and loud noise, the belt might be slipping. Adjust the belt if necessary. Also, lack of steering fluid may cause the noise. Add fluid if necessary, then turn the steering wheel completely to the left and right several times to purge air from the system. i Inspect the steering pump, connecting hoses and lines around the steering assembly and look for possible leaks using a flashlight if necessary. If you frequently add fluid to the steering pump, the steering mechanism might have a leak. Clean steering components with a shop rag and recheck a couple of days later. You might find a loose hose clamp, torn hose, broken line or crack on the steering pump.
Q:I recently bought an old 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and it runs ok, except it won't start nearly every morning. My mechanic told me the battery's most likely going. The only reason I'm thinking it's something else is because every morning when I go to start the car, there's a loud, intermittent noise coming from the fuse box; it's like a loud grinding/electrical noise that only lasts about a second at a time, but continually comes back almost on perfect rhythm (think of your directional, same sort of rhythm). Sometimes the lights will flash on and off with the noise too. Could this be something other than a bad battery? Or is it possible that these symptoms suggest a more electrical problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!
From your description, I understand that indeed there is an electrical problem. I would start with what is called wiggle test. While engine is running, try gently to wiggle the fuse box back and forward. Should you find any abnormalities in engine running or engine stalls or anything that shouldn't be doing out of the ordinary, you can say that the fuse box is your problem. If all good, secondly I would remove the fuse box and do a pin test on all fuse box connectors from under the box (wiring harness that plugs into fuse box). This will tell you if any male connector is loose. Should you have any loose connectors, just close them up a tiny bid so that they wont move. Before you put the box back, apply some electrical stabilant to ensure proper conductivity on all electrical components. This procedure could be time consuming but is well worth it to try. Finally, before you do all these actions please, have someone doing an AVR test to ensure your battery is good and entire charging/starting system is normal. Hope this will help you.
Q:i understand you need the battery to get a car started and the spark plugs, but what else is used in a car to get it to start? i ask cause when i try to turn it on sometimes it wont start right away, the battery is fine my sparks are good, but the car still has a hard time starting up.
It's not necessary to turn it on every day, as running the car for a few minutes probably won't get to full operating temperature. But highway driving about once a week for a half hour or so is good for the engine especially in colder weather; highway driving will burn out the water condensation in the engine (which contributes to rust and water contaminating the oil). It's the stop and go city driving that puts most of the wear on the engine. Whenever the car sits for a while, I'll see milky condensation on the oil filler cap, highway driving takes care of that. Though with the $4 gas I'm not making those highway trips as much.

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