9 X 9 Aluminum Foil Pan

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FAQ

We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a "living in condition" with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a "spray-on"insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :)

The problem might be resolved by venting the attic. You need to have an air exchange in the attic to prevent condensation.

I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?

The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.

I've found lots of building forums and general "building advice" columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).

i could propose the felt. I rather have heard the two execs and cons with regard to the extra moderen man made underlay, and that i'm no longer inspired. I consistently get rid of the previous roofing, positioned #30 felt down, positioned a 1x4 batten down, and positioned my steel on that. I additionally want the three' huge roofing

roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.

Only you. 8 years is long past any roofer's warranty

If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....

Insulating the ceiling and then the roof would be a huge waste of money. You only insulate on the cold side of a heated area. Why would you put insulation on the roof when you have insulation in the ceiling and there is no heat source in between the two?. Put R40 insulation in your ceiling, roof vents in your roof, and you will be fine. You can add more insulation if you want, but it gets to the point where you are not really doing much any more.

please help..

not unless you want little pieces of fiberglass in your hair and on your clothes every time you get in the car. They make special sound dampening materials for vehicles.

My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.

Loose fill cellulose can be blown into your attic. I don't know if I understand the protrusions that you are describing but if you can freely blow the cellulose fiber into this space it should serve as a good insulation. You don't want to poke it in with a stick because you don't want to compress it. If you cannot blow this product directly into the space, you would be better off stuffing it lightly with fiberglass batting. Just don't cram it too tightly. It needs to be loose to be most effective.

I live in the top most floor of a flat. Is it worth to insulate the roof (from inside) with styrofoam(thermocole) to reduce the airconditioning load. Is it really economical with respect to cost of insulation and savings gained? Any experiences?

if u mean roof as just below the shingles this is not recommended as it will cause the shingles to become very hot and prematurely fail,,the best way to lower the heat in an attic is ventilation,,if u have an attic its best to insulate the floor of the attic and lots of ventilation