• Polished tile New noble stone series,6W18 System 1
  • Polished tile New noble stone series,6W18 System 2
Polished tile New noble stone series,6W18

Polished tile New noble stone series,6W18

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
50000SQM per month m²/month

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Specification:

Serie: New noble stone

Item No.: 6W18

Size: 600× 600mm / 800× 800mm

Thickness: 9.8mm

Surface: Polished

Water absorption rate: ≤ 0.3 %





Effect Picture:






Packing details:

Size(mm)PCS/CTNM2/CTNKGS/CTNSQM/20'GP
600×600-Soluble salt41.44281382.4
600×600-Double loading41.44301296
800×80031.92501036.8
1200×60021.4445864
1200×600-Thin tile32.1622.52592




BREIF INTRODUCTION:

1. High Quality:

Grade AAA+, first choice always.The product quality strictly follow the ISO quality
standard. They all pass and even exceed the national and international standard.

2. Competitive Price:

We have our own factory located in Nanzhuang, Foshan. With 5 production lines, daily
output reaches around 10,000 sqm. Therefore we can offer our clients the very best prices.
Regarding required quantity, discounts are offered.

3. 10 Years Professional Experience:

We have been specialize in manufacturing and exporting tiles for 15 years. Our products can meet different import requirements of different countries. SGS, BV, SONCAP, SASO, CIQ, CE, SNI, INEN, etc can be handled well.

4. Modern Fashionable designs:

New and fashionable designs are promoted and updated periodically, which will be
fresh and fashionable revolutions.



FAQ and Investment:


Q: When can you deliver the goods?
A: If stock is available, we can deliver goods within 10 days. If no stock, that would be 20-25 days after receiving deposit.

Q: How about your payment terms?
A: Our payment terms is by T/T, 30% as deposit, balance by T/T or L/C before shipment.

Q: What is your main market?
A: Our main market is Middle East, Southeast Asia, South America, Africa, European Countries.

Q: We are importing to Egypt, can you provide CIQ certificate?
A: Our company have been in tiles export for many years. We are experienced in dealing with CIQ, SASO, BV, SGS, SNI, SONCAP certificate and etc.



Q: i need to cut a hole in ceramic floor tile. i have tried many things such as dremel with different ceramic tile cutting attachments and a carbide hole saw.what should i try next?
Grinds that carbide right off the bit, doesn't it? One of the previous posts has one technique, that being, drill a small hole in the tile (carbide, diamond-tip) at a slow speed with some sort of lubricant such as water (also cools the bit, but don't electrocute yourself) on the tile. Then you would thread the carbide grit hacksaw blade through the hole and hook up a hacksaw frame and cut away - - slowly. Then the tile will usually break when you are almost done. There are tile hole saw blades made, but they are not cheap, as they wear out relatively quickly. They will work up to a few inch diameter size. If it's any bigger than that, you'll probably want to find someone with a water-jet machine, like a countertop fabricator - person. A water-jet cuts just like it sounds - with water. It'll cut stone up to several inches thick. Hope that helps
Q: What is half tiles
Water absorption is less than 0.5% is called the whole tile is greater than the pottery is half porcelain. There is a very simple way to distinguish between the water is poured on the back of the brick very little water can be quickly sucked into the semi-porcelain is, and vice versa is all porcelain, and from the name and use can also The whole tiles are called antique tiles, polished tiles, tiles, matte bricks, etc., there are generally called with a certain stone, a certain jade, such as cloud shadow stone, amber jade, etc. are all tiles, The use of points on the majority of home clay floor of the earth tiles are all porcelain, and home bathroom, kitchen sticky porcelain walls are all semi-porcelain, so now the mainstream is the use of matte tiles, antique brick
Q: Im going to put tile floors in my home, and working on a budget so i cant spend too much. question is I am undecided regarding the color, i found a brownish color tile kinda like sienna not to dark 16x16 and another beige with cream and is glossy with a design etch on it really nice, but in a 12x12 i think. anyway, i really like the sienna color for the living room, kitchen, foyer and hallway, but i dont think it would look right in the bathroom, i like the beige for the bath. i have a very small bathroom so wold it look weird to have two diffrent tiles in a home? i plan to paint my living room in a grayish blue color french blue i think its called with white trim but still undecided in bathroom i really need some advise on this so if anyone knows please help
maximum tilers could say the main suitable approach is to get them up and retile. for a valid reason, if the previous tiles are no longer nicely laid or poorly adhered the stresses of latest tiles on suitable could reason the previous ones to come back freed from the backside. somewhat a uncommon occurence, yet happens. so if its a clean shopper we factor that out to them and the alternative is theirs to enhance or tile over. use a single section versatile adhesive from an excellent shop(no longer b and q) . in the journey that your new tiles are of a matching length to the previous ones attempt to start up tiling with the help of laying them overlapping the previous ones. i:e the centre of your new tile lays on suitable of the grout line between 2 of the previous ones. this helps to unfold the tensions.
Q: is it better to rent a wet saw, or will a tile cutter be less expensive and less messy
It okorder /
Q: I have an on going problem in my kitchen. Same time tile floor was done in our home but kitchen is the problem. It was done 3-4 years ago by a contractor, however he never showed up his face to help us. He left some grout with us and said if ever the grout pops up then we can mix it in the water and fill with this mixture. The grout from the kitchen floor always comes out. Underneath, the kitchen is wood floor. The kitchen is on the second floor. Our family room is also on the second level but no problem to that floor Please help.
Flexible Grout
Q: I have a couple of tiles that have fell off and need to be put back on, what type glue do you apply to make them stick. They fell off due to foundation problems which is now fixed.
i would not use a torch. It probably could desire to reason any moisture trapped in the back of the tiles to enhance and then it may reason steam that could desire to pop the tiles off. What i could do is circulate to homestead Depot and purchase Krud Kutter. It softens paint and is quite gentle. Spray on wait slightly and scrub the paint off. As for the caulking there is caulking remover in an analogous area because of the fact the caulk is offered. good luck and effective %.
Q: Marco Polo tiles have several manufacturers
Marco Polo himself is no factory, are done in other factories and then paste the brand, advertising is good but the quality of the general
Q: Following on from my previous question about tiles... I had asked if it's better to remove them or tile over the top. At that time, I thought they were bedded in the same stuff as the bathroom tiles were upstairs which was a very fine and compacted sandy stuff that was not set.However, after trying to remove a couple of the mosaic floor tiles in the kitchen, it seems they are bedded in the actual concrete floor itself !!! and instead of being able to remove them, it just chips the tile and breaks off the surface somewhat. They're extremely difficult to remove so: Will my new tiles be completely ok if set on top of these? can you please let me know how to prepare them and what to look out for?Height-wise it doesn't matter, I'll simply order shorter doors. I'm really concerned about the long term strength because it's a kitchen that will get a lot of use / humidity/ etc...Thank you
You may be able to do it as the last guy answered, but I would never guarantee the results in the long run. The proper way is to chip up all the old tile and start from scratch.
Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q: I found answers about laying tile and a backer board over linoleum I didn‘t know if they would be the same. What would cause tile to crack if it‘s places directly on concrete?
remove the vinyl tiles. There are great products that will help with loosening the tiles. should you decide to not remove the tiles this is what could happen. the tiles will move under the ceramic floor and cause cracks in the tiles. replacing the grout is easy not the tiles. if you start with a sound floor then you will have a ceramic floor that will last you for a good long time.

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