• Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt CMAX501/502/503 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt CMAX501/502/503 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt CMAX501/502/503 System 3
Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt CMAX501/502/503

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt CMAX501/502/503

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt CMAX501/502/503 is one of the most popular color of Soluble Salt Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Full glazed polished tiles are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one, not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening, like archaize brick pattern of design and color is rich, thick gorgeous color, natural texture, and the environmental protection and energy saving, service life long advantages and the low barriers to entry.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt CMAX501/502/503 Polished Porcelain Tile Soluble Salt CMAX501/502/503


FAQ

               

    1. Q: May I have my own design?

      A: Of course. But the pictures or samples of the products should be offered by your party.

    2. Q: May I ask for some samples?

      The samples are free. You just need to pay for samples’ courier cost.

    3. Q: Can wall tile be used on the floor?

      A: Not in most cases. Please check with your installer or YIJIANG for application recommendations.

    4. Q: Can floor tile be used on the wall?

      A: Yes. Exterior applications require special precautions and installation methods. Please check with your installer or YIJIANG for application recommendations.



Q: Can you Spackle over ceiling tile and then paint it, or do you have to rip all the tiles out and Sheetrock the ceiling to have a seamless ceiling?
Spackle Ceiling
Q: I am planning on tiling the backsplash area of my kitchen. I am using 6x6 ceramic porecelin tile (roman stone). The dimensions of the area is 17x60. When i went to scrape the original paint off of the wall I will be tiling, the first thin layer of the drywall came off with the paint. This layer is paper thin. I went to Home Depot and they told me to use Zissner 123 sealer. I put on two coats and the wall seems sealed pretty good. I will be using Mastic as my adhesive. Do you think that I will be ok tiling three tiles high (first tile is laying on the granite countertop) without using a backerboard. Will the drywall be able to hold the mastic/tile even though I ripped off a thin layer of drywall but sealed it with 123 sealer?
If you have it sealed w/ a primer( Zissner is fine) , you ll be fine. All mastic needs is a painted surface to adhere to. The use of backerboard isn t needed in this case , since its a non wet area. Using a mastic and a v notched trowel w/ some porcelains , watch that the back of the tile isnt indented so you get a good bond. Your plan of attack sounds fine ( 3 tiles high starting at the counter top.I like to use a smaller grout joint on some thing like this too (1/8 th or 3/16 ths) Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar and check my qualifications GL
Q: I‘m installing a kitchen back splash of 1 x 1 glass tile. Right now there is drywall where the tile will be. I‘ve read that it is better to use cement backing board as a substrate. Is this really necessary or can I just use thin-set to mount the tile directly to the drywall and then grout as usual? Thanks for your help!
In a kitchen setting, the drywall will be fine.
Q: Is it good to use a white cement?
Paste the tiles with cement paste, back seam with a good sealant, because the hook is not easy to change color, will not seepage, we do when the external walls are used
Q: I am looking to either repair my flat tile roof or replace it for a shingle roof.
sure rolled roofing is for low pitch roofs. He amy be charging to tear off and eliminate the old roof textile. If it leaked, he in all probability will could replace the plywood additionally. The rolled roofing is greater cost-effective than shingles. you additionally can get yet another estimate.
Q: but, not all the same time b/c I can‘t afford it. which project should be done first? a friend told me it is better to replace the tiles first because the dust is not good for paint.paint vanities orreplace tiles orreplace the bathtub?
i would probably paint first, that way if you spill paint it doesnt ruin the new tile? or replace the tub and tile first then lay something over the entire floor before you paint and do the rest? hmmm sorry im of no help thats a tough one lol
Q: I am am re-tiling the kitchen counter. Please help. Thanks.
I tile every day of my life, and usually hang out in DIY. Tile spacers come in two sizes, 1/4 and 1/8. For a counter top I suggest 1/8. You already know they look like (+) signs, and many have rounded tips. They are also sold in what looks like a round CAP with the plus sign under that allows for corner spacing and alignment. I do not use corners specifically, in laying the spacer flat, primarily through experience, but many suggest that method. You would set a piece of tile, then another in close proximety, using the spacers to align and keep the tiles at an exatc distance from each other. The spacer also makes a great scoop for wiping out excess mortar or mastic that squeezes up into the grout lines. I suggest 1/8 for countertops because of the purpose of the top and having the least amount of absorbent material, against the greater flat/flush surface that a counter top should be. Without knowing at all, your tile, or design, I also prefer a tile style that has bullnose sold in the same style allowing a back splash, and counter top edge/facing. I can't recall the name of REVERSE bullnose, but it would be used where the countertop, butts/meets the back splash. You may get suggestions that ramble, as I am, about sealing the grout, and you should be using a poly blend mortar and grout anyway. I'm not strictly opposed to sealers, but they do become a regular, life long process, and I am opposed to any surface finishes that come in contact with food. Obviously cutting boards work. Steven Wolf Just my two sense
Q: why is waterproofing done before grouting?why do we need to let the mortar/adhesive dry before grouting?
You should use special green board for the shower. It is water resistant not water proof. This gives the best base for the tiles. You should leave the adhesive set up totally before grouting because the gases that are in the glue need a place to go. This includes thin set mortar because of the water vapor it out gases. Good luck
Q: we are planning on replacing our livingroom carpet, !/2 of it withceramic tile. Is there any do‘s and don‘ts to consider. Thanks.
I think you should do the whole thing in tile. Not only is it better for resale value, but better for your health also. The other poster is right, the subfloor is the most important thing. It needs first to be level, and second to be of the right substrate. I am guessing you have a plywood subfloor. If it is level, spread a layer of thinset, then screw cement board down over top of it. This will give you a good surface. Laying the tile is not too hard for a DIYer. Just follow the directions on the thinset bag and on the grout bag. I'll throw some resources in below.
Q: I‘m in the process of re-tiling my bathroom and when I took the old tiles off some of the old grout stayed on the walls or in some areas messed up the dry wall surface. I‘m looking for recommendations of how to either remove the old grout from the wall, or how to smooth the surface over the area in order to lay the new tiles. Suggestions?
Just get a trowel or a razor scraper to remove the grout it works quite nicely. As for the messed up areas in the drywall surface just fill it up with tile adhesive with a trowel making it as even as you can prior to tiling.

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