• Polished Porcelain Tile Natural Stone Serie Yellow Color CMAXSB0635 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Natural Stone Serie Yellow Color CMAXSB0635 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Natural Stone Serie Yellow Color CMAXSB0635

Polished Porcelain Tile Natural Stone Serie Yellow Color CMAXSB0635

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1382.4
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Key Specifications Polished Porcelain Tile Natural Stone Serie Yellow Color CMAXSB0635:

 

First choice,top grade.

Water absorption:<0.1%.< p="">

Delivery Time:15~25 days after deposit.

Certicate: CE,ISO9001,Soncap,etc.

Competitive price and good quality

Usage— Suitable for home, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel, airport, shopping mall,

deluxe clubs floor and wall tiles etc.

 

This series of products in addition to good wear resistance with ultrafine tiles, flexural strength,

and low water absorption, the appearance of the product, due to be fired into a crystal frit, so

three-dimensional effectprominent, white the texture clear, natural, delicate harmony and balance without duplication, with impeccable decorative effect, close to natural stone.            

 

  

 

Technical characteristics:

 

 

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

 

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

 

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

 

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

 

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

 

to clean, etc excellent characteristic

 

Main Export Markets:

 

Mid East/Africa

Central/South America

Asia

Australasia

Southeast Asia, Mideast Asia

 

 

Product Picture :

 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

 

We have many different color and different design in this series, this tile is good sell in supermarket, shopping mall etc, our price is very competitive with very high quality.

 

 

Production Line :

 

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

 

Product Certificates :

 

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

 

Packing Details  :

 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: So I have the substrate ready, the room is a L shape 253 x 148. Where do I start the tile, I am assuming the center of each on a chalk line. Is this correct?Bond
Kosh has a very good point that I was going to bring up that no one else has. When dry laying tile out going off a center line and you end up w/ less than 1/2 a tile at your longest site line then shift over a 1/2 tile and remark your lines. Dont just go off your longest site line and lay whole tile. Yes a few more cuts and a bit more time but it s your own job and you want it to look the best.. As far as a grout joint you didn t say what you are laying ..Soft bodied tile w/ lugs are butted together( leave just a hairline space to make adjustments for sizing . ( unsanded grout only) With hard bodied tile stay in the 1/4 inch 3/16 range any larger and it looks gaudy I think. Any smaller and it s harder unless you have a good tile and or experience working w/ tile.. GL
Q: I just mortared some very porous tiles down and i‘m ready to grout. I‘ve used these tiles before and noticed it‘s pretty tough to get the haze to go away. Should i pre-seal the tile before grouting? if so, what brand or name? Also, do i still use a grout haze remover if needed? And lastly what is your recommended tile sealer to finish the job?
Yes, yes, yes! Porous tile, natural stone, etc., needs to be sealed prior to grouting. If this tile has a smooth or shiny finish, you need to use unsanded grout so you don't scratch it. They sell commercial cleaner but vinegar and water will take the haze off in most cases. Everyone has their own preferences on sealer, but they're all about the same. Your consideration should be whether you want a shiny or dull finish. Remember, the shiny finish will be slicker when wet than the dull finish.
Q: I want to put ceramic tile in my dining room, my room is 12' x 11'. So how would I go about deciding how many tiles I would need? The tiles are 12x12. But for ceramic tiles dont you have to leave space in between them?
First measure the room from wall to wall.Length and width.Multiply the numbers.This gives you square footage.Add another 15 square feet for cutting and breakage.Tiles are sold per square foot not amount.Space in between does not matter in calculation.This is up to you.If you want a more full look make space smaller.This is easier for maintenance(cleaning).1/4 inch is normal, 3/8 is big.The bigger the space it's harder to grout plus will cost more in grout.Make sure to use grout similar colour to tile.If your floor is wood underneath then you have to fasten it so it does not vibrate and then lay a wire mesh before putting on the tile.This is important,if you do not do this the tiles will crack.To remove them costs more than putting them on.
Q: It has been installed on a concrete slab for about five months now, could the slab not have cured right or is the tile layed wrong?
here's the deal about laying tile over a concrete slab. either the tiler has to essentially build a floor over the slab (slab, then firring strips, plywood subfloor, thinset, backerboard, thinset, tile), or must use what's called an 'isolation membrane' to install the tiles directly on the slab (slab, then membrane, thinset, tile). the isolation membrane is a self-levelling rubbery substance that thinset can adhere to, that allows the slab to crack underneath without the cracks propagating upwards through the thinset and cracking the tile. if the tiler did neither, it's almost a guarantee that eventually the tiles over the slab will crack. (yes, if the slab had not fully cured, that might have caused the crack underneath; however, most all slabs will eventually crack even if everything else is perfect. that's the reason for the isolation membrane.)
Q: The house has been living for two years, these days do not know the weather is wet or how the matter, the bathroom tile actually fell a few pieces, but fortunately did not break. Now want to paste it back, I would like to ask, how to paste? With cement? Or what other glue? Do you want to drink again before There is also a problem with the brick at that time, but the closure or other problems? Another: Tiles are Mona Lisa. Thank you!
If the individual tiles fall off, you can re-use the pure cement paste the tiles, but if it is falling out of the tiles of the wall is not on the original cement cleared, then the cement paste will make this place higher than the original Out of the point, and the removal of the original cement with a certain degree of difficulty, because in this piece of empty space at the four corners of the cement is more difficult to remove, confused will not fall off the tiles broken. There is also a way to: buy a group of "AB resin glue", according to the instructions on the plastic tile in the fall of the reverse, in the paste to the original place, and so about 10 minutes after the initial curing, and so on 24 After hours, it will be a very good sticky. But if you use glue, it must ensure that the wall and the place to be tiled are dry, can not have humidity, otherwise it will stick.
Q: Easiest way to remove stick tile
I used a 3 putty knife.
Q: We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?
This is a long question. First it is not good to lay tile on drywall your best bet is to get the rock board for tile it is not that expensive. Take out the drywall where the tile is to go and replace it with hardibacker board. Just pick a side but it is best to start at the bottom when you lay the tile. Make your corner is square or your tile is going to be off. I am not sure about question 3 but you will have to cut the tile to fit. Use a level and try to cut to fit as you go. There is a little room to that you can play with but try to keep things close. Unless your tile is rough or there are a lot of holes in it, there is no need to seal the tile. The grout needs to be sealed. In the kitchen bacteria will grow in the cracks so put a coat of sealer on. Take your time and it will work out
Q: I am planning on laying down tile in my dining room and kitchen. I recently saw an offset pattern with 12x12 tiles and liked it. I‘ve now decided to go with the same offset pattern but with 20x20 ceramic tiles. Would I still have to find the center of the room and start tiling out from the center or can I just start at one wall and go from there since i‘ll be using the offset pattern? Thanks in advance.
Starting at the center is the only way, regardless if the tile is in line or offset as you plan. Especially with the 20x20. it would look odd to have a 2 tile on one side and an 18 tile on the other. Remember, there is a vertical plain as well as a horizontal plain. Your pattern, with two rows and spacers should be layed out wall to wall up down as well as right and left. That is an easy way to determine your first and second tiles. Mark those two tiles with a magic marker. A rough starting point is determined by measuring the length of the room, convert to inches then divide by 20. This gives you the number of tiles aprox.,divide this number by two (2) and set the first tile at aprox 1/2 the distance from the wall
Q: New handyman project involves putting ceramic tile on bathroom walls. Never tried this before. Any tips or suggestions? What about a web site with do it yourself directions?
I agree with fearjar. You could tile over tile, but its best to do it right and go back to a solid, clean base that is free of mold and other defects. This gives you a chance to inspect the plumbing (which according to Murphy's law will burst if you don't check it) and will make for a more even installation.
Q: I am thinking about tiling 2 bathrooms in a rental property and planning to use 12x12 tiles costing $1 each. I want to use the same tiles for bathtub surrounds as well as floor. I am looking for some advice about the size of tiles that may be appropriate.Thanks
I built my entire shower, floor, wall, and even ceiling with 12x12 looks great, but you have to be patient on the walls, and ceiling. I have put many 12x12's on the walls of tubs. Make sure you use something for the spacers for the wall or they will slide down. A thin strip of 3/8 plywood works great. If you ever put them on a ceiling you have to use screws with large washer, and glue. You can take the screws out once the glue is cured. To grout a ceiling you have to use silicone caulk and then dust the grout let dry and then seal. Makes for one cool looking bathroom.

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