High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Particle Line Stone

High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Particle Line Stone System 1

High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Particle Line Stone

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Guangzhou

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 500 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Glazed Porcelain Tile YC3A-1

Hot Sale Porcelain Tile CMAX28601

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tiles CR-BJ001

Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-CB010

Glazed tiles porcelain tiles from China

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B209

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6A256

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B238

Product Brief Introduction

HIGH GLOSSY POLISHED PORCELAINT TILE PARTICLE LINE STONE SERIE is one of the most popular series of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Product Features

Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

Only Grade AAA available

Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

Competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast delivery

OEM service could be offered

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%

Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N

Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3

Glossiness: 》 85 Degree

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Particle Line Stone

FAQ

1. For Polished Porcelain Tile, why is there shade problem?

—— The shade problem comes out of different production batch mainly. Besides, it could be caused by the unstable temperature, the quality of grinding heads etc.

2. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q:I had asked the guy I am seeing to go somewhere with me tonight and he said he had to prep the floor before laying the tile? He has been working on a flooring job, but what do you do to prep a floor? Is this the same whether with tiles or hardwood?: You need to put down rock board before the tile, unless it is a cement floor then you need to make sure it is clean and level. If it isn't level you can purchase some leveling material to pour and smooth over the floor. As for hardwood? There is an underlayment for hardwood, you can use the manufacturers product or just use 30lb felt paper (roofing felt)

Q:Over time the tiles in my apartment bathtub have turned yellow. It‘s not all of the tiles, just a few in the back/corner. I undoubtedly have hard water but I can‘t figure out why a few of these tiles are yellow. As far as I can tell, these are cheap plastic tiles (white). I have tried comet (with bleach), full strength bleach, vinegar/water solution, vinegar/baking soda, baking soda by itself, mr. clean magic eraser, and full strength CLR to no avail. The only thing that worked at all was using comet and scouring the tiles with steel wool. Although it scratched the surface, the actual scratch part wasn‘t noticeable. But there has to be an easier way than breaking my arm to get one tile cleaned. Any suggestions? If anyone wants I can email them a picture of the tiles.: try using Zud cleaner. found in Home Depot.

Q:The 12 by 12 tiles were laid 7 years ago and nothing is different, but last October some of them over by the exterior wall of the house started tenting. There had been no more or less rain. What would make them do this?Here‘s some more info:-They started cracking in the part of the house that was added on.-The new foundation may not have been sealed.-My brother put them down and he tends to do a crappy job at best. He thinks they were cheap tiles.-I found traces of termites when I started pulling them up (seems unrelated since they‘re ceramic tiles, but one never knows...)Any advice on replacing them would be greatly appreciated!: Tiles will crack for generally 3 reasons 1) Improperly prepared flooring - The floor needs to be sealed from moisture from below/exterior walls, and cleaned from any and all previous floor coverings (ie glues.residues from laminant or previous tiles). Highly recommended not to apply thinset to partical board or OSB as they call it here as the thinset aggravates the adhesives from the board. Best to use plywood. 2) Improperly applied tiles - There are specific thinsets for different floor coverings (ie, concrete flooring in basements, plywood, or even on top of existing ceramic floors) It is very important that the correct thinset is used, and that the application is uniform and complete underneath each and every tile. If there are air pockets under the tile, chances are very high they will break. 3) Cheap materials - You generally get what you pay for. Tiles at .60/sqft will break in your own hands. If you can snap the tile in 2 with your bare hands, how do you expect it to handle 200+ lbs. It sounds like it is possible that termites deminished the quality of the wood beneath the tiles, but you would be able to see yourself from the tile whether the tile let go from the thinset, or the thinset let go of the floor surface. If the bottom of the tile is caked with thinset, the problem is moisture in the floor (or your termites), if there is no thinset on the tile it was either not properly installed, or improper/poor thinset was used.

Q:how I can install ceramic tile on a wall and what tools do I need to do so? Any other tip that I should know about it to do a good job would be appreciated.: Okay, the gory details are too numerous to detail here. Basically, you need: notched trowel for your tile size, grout float, wet saw/tile cutter, tile cleaning sponge, blue painter's tape, Mastic/thiinset, and grout. The grout should be unsanded for gaps between tiles less than 1/8. For gaps 1/8 or greater, use sanded grout. Thinset works well but is a pain in the b*tt to mix and has a short working time. I recommend you use Mastic or a similar product. You will have to remove all outlet and light switch wall plates as well as loosening the screws on all outlets and switches so you can install the tile underneath them. Otherwise, your switches and outlets will be recessed behind the wall plates and will look terrible. Of course, remove power at your fuse panel/breaker panel to each switch and outlet you work on before you do any of this. You will need to rough up your wall so that it has a good tooth for the Mastic to adhere to. I recommend either 60 grit sandpaper or a wire wheel in a drill. Rough it up in a horizontal direction. This will reduce the chance of tile droop (sliding down) after installation. Mark the boundaries of your backsplash with blue painter's tape to prevent Excess Mastic/grout from getting onto the painted part of your wall. Do a dry layout first, of your backsplash to check its look before you put it up. Now's the time to make any last-minute changes. Work from the bottom up. Use spacers between tiles. Cut tiles to fit around outlets, switches, and any other wall obstructions. Clean up any excess Mastic from between tiles, otherwise there won't be room for the grout. Let dry 24 hours before grouting. Use the float for grouting. Push the grout into the spaces between tiles. Don't worry about getting grout on the tiles. This will be cleaned up. Wait about fifteen minutes, then with a damp, clean sponge, wipe away the excess grout. That's about it. Check with other tile professionals and get their tips and advice as well.

Q:When tiling a counter top, do you need to remove the existing covering? I am assuming that I would. If so, should I apply the tile directly to the plywood? Will the plywood be wide enough?: This is a litttle tricky to answer because I can't see what you have to work with. However, here is how I do it. Remove all of the old counter top down to where you can see down into the cabinets below. Then I use 3/4 inch thick plywood. It doesn't have to be the sanded kind because over the top of that I put a layer or the thin 1/4 inch tile backer board, sometimes called Miracle Board or Cement board. Be sure to counter sink the screw heads just below the serfice or you will have problems seating your tile. I always try to size my top at this point so I don't have to cut many tiles. Every situation is different so you have to do some figuring at this point. I always lay my tiles out dry to see how they fit first. Then you must think about the edge trim that will go around the outside edge of the counter top. I use oak but that also depends on what style you are doing but none the less something must incaplsulate the tiled area. Use the little tile spacers at the corners of the tiles to get an even fit. They are shaped like an + and are cheap. Most home centers have guides for free that have good info, take advantage of that. I wish I could send a picture of my island top. Just looking at a picture helps alot. Also, use the pre-mixed latex adhesive to put them down, much better and don't forget to seal the grout when it is dry. Good luck!

Q:I want to replace my wood flooring with porcelain wood like tile because i have a dog but my uncle who is a contractor said because of the house not sitting on concrete foundation ( meaning you can go under the house) i can only install vinyl or wood flooring again because tile is too heavy but um we have tile in the kitchen and restrooms and my other uncle who has a two story home has tile upstairs so i dont get it: Amtico, blows your pergo away!!

Q:We grouted the tile, and also had a border tile up.. the border is decorative and has some texture to it.We did wipe off the excess as we grouted. The next day tho, my brother sealed it, before making sure all the dust was off.. now there is some grout dust sealed onto the border tile. I scrubbed with a toothbrush, and managed to get some of it off.. but not all.Is there anything I can do to remove the grout, or even the seal, without ruining the finish on the tile??: I tile every day of my life, and I empathize. Too bad the dust wasn't wet mopped away completely. I'd find out what the ingredients of the sealer are, and try to find a chemical designed to dissolve it. Below is a general link with some topics regarding your issue. I guess what I'm more confused about is that the sealer was apparently applied to the entire surface, not just the grout? Steven Wolf 45 plus years as a contractor

Q:tiles...for construction or what?: yeah they are really just for construction really

Q:Not sure it it‘s mold/mildew ot the sealer stripping off. I‘ve used Tilex but it didn‘t work. Even scrubbed it with a stiff brush. Anyone know what this film is and how to get it off?: Are these tiles applied directly to a concrete floor that sits on the ground? If so, it sounds like efflorescence, where salt moves from the ground into the floor and then through the tile appearing as a white film on the surface of the tile (it happens through basement walls and if bricks are placed on the ground). Scrubbing may not be enough. You may have to check at your local hardware store for a sealer for your tiles or a cleaner strong enough to prevent the film from forming again.

Q:if there are 24 square tiles in a box and there are enough to cover 3 square feet, how big are the tiles?: 24 tiles/3 sq ft =8 tiles per square foot. Since 8 is not a square, there is no solution, or the tiles cannot be square.

1. Manufacturer Overview
Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability
a)Trade Capacity
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range