• Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series MA60R/60T System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series MA60R/60T System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series MA60R/60T System 3
Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series MA60R/60T

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series MA60R/60T

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series MA60R/60T is one of the most popular color of Glazed Porcelain Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market.Glazed polished tiles are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one, not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening, like archaize brick pattern of design and color is rich, thick gorgeous color, natural texture, and the environmental protection and energy saving, service life long advantages and the low barriers to entry.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tile,

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series MA60R/60T

Glazed Porcelain Tile Cement Stone Series MA60R/60T

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

4. Why choose our Floor Tile?

1). Less investment and shorter lead time because we ship tiles directly from Factory.

2). Better ETD and more stable price bacause we keep abundant stock for future needs.
 

5. What exhibition we joined?

1). Canton Fair (every year)

2). Dubai Big 5

  

6. How to choose bathroom tiles? Porcelain tiles or glazed tiles?

Currently used in the bathroom tiles with glazed tiles (mainly from price considerations, some high-end can choose tiles, notice to choose tiles), divided into Shinny and Matt two kinds. 

Q: What‘s the average cost to install tile baseboards? I‘m replacing my wooden baseboards with tile and was just wondering what an average price to just do the baseboards with tile. I have roughly 1500 inches of floorboard that is going to be done and I am looking to use 20 X 20 inch tile. No bullnoseing or anything special, just cut the tile and install.Thanks
bullnose doesnt sit flat unless over a ledge so tile all the way to floor with the one u r using on the wall or a border type tile
Q: We're remodeling our bathroom and looking for tile. Thanks in advance!
if i was you i would first go to a tile shop ...many shops ..and find the tiles you really like first ..take down their number and batch number ..they vary a lot in shade ..then see if you can get the same on the net ..in my experience ..you can do as well in the shop as on the net ..they are all so easier to deal with if something goes wrong
Q: What does the thinset and grout do to tiles when installing them?
Thinset is one type of adhesive. You use white for light tile and grey for dark tile. If you get it be sure to get the dry type and not the premixed. The grout goes on after the tile has been installed for 24 hours. It sealls the spaces between the tile. There are two types one has sand in it the other doesn't. You use the sand type if the spaces between the tiles are more than 1/8. The other type doesn't have sand and is used for tiles that are close together like marble and granite.
Q: The ceramic tile in my shower is looking really shabby and I‘d like to re-do it in subway tiles on the walls and mini hexagonal tiles on the floor. Has anyone ever re-tiled an old shower? What should I keep in mind? It is a single story house that is about 30 years old and I beleive it is all the original stuff.
I have retiled a couple of showers, and this is basically what you're in for: You need to remove all of the old tile. This could require removing the grout, but you may be able to use a scraper and get the old tiles off without removing the grout. Then you will be replaceing the sheet rock that was under the old tiles (make sure to use green board it's water resistant). This will give you a new and smooth surface to put up new tile. Then you need to get your tile, grout, plastic t-shaped spacers, and fast setting tile mortar. You can buy pre-mixed mortar, or mix your own (pre-mixed is easier, but a little more expensive). Use a mortar trowel (the kind with the saw toother edges) to spread a thin layer of mortar evenly on a section of wall. Then place the tile and use the plastic t-shaped spacers to keep the seperated, and even. After the tile has had time to set (the next day in most cases) mix up your grout, and apply it to the edges of the tiile. This will be messy, but don't worry, you can wipe the grout right off of the tile surface. After the grout dries, you want to use a grout sealant to make sure the grout is resistant to water. Unsealed grout will deteriorate, and also grow mold and mildew. hope that helped... it can be a bit challenging if it's your first time, but doing it yourself can also save you hundreds in labor costs.
Q: My grandpa‘s bathroom needs to have a few adjustments made to it, namely safety bars put in place around the tub to help him in and out. The problem: every wall is covered in glazed tile (which I know makes a difference) and the bars need to be screwed in.My question is this: how? I know that using just a drill bit will shatter the tile, even a carbide one because the tile‘s glazed.Thanks much, kisses and ten points to the best answer.
dont drill to fast nor too hard, but using a carbide bit is the best, try putting some masking tape around where u drilling hole
Q: how do i start my own tiling business?
To sell tiles you need to know how to install tiles. Dont believe me!! believe the other 10,000 tile shops that have failed because they dont have proper knowledge. ( I label myself a flooring mechanic because I feel I deserve it. Most others are hacks.)
Q: I am planning on laying down tile in my dining room and kitchen. I recently saw an offset pattern with 12x12 tiles and liked it. I‘ve now decided to go with the same offset pattern but with 20x20 ceramic tiles. Would I still have to find the center of the room and start tiling out from the center or can I just start at one wall and go from there since i‘ll be using the offset pattern? Thanks in advance.
Starting at the center is the only way, regardless if the tile is in line or offset as you plan. Especially with the 20x20. it would look odd to have a 2 tile on one side and an 18 tile on the other. Remember, there is a vertical plain as well as a horizontal plain. Your pattern, with two rows and spacers should be layed out wall to wall up down as well as right and left. That is an easy way to determine your first and second tiles. Mark those two tiles with a magic marker. A rough starting point is determined by measuring the length of the room, convert to inches then divide by 20. This gives you the number of tiles aprox.,divide this number by two (2) and set the first tile at aprox 1/2 the distance from the wall
Q: I‘m thinking about most economical way to up grade my living and master bedroom flooring.both had laminate and had flood slab leak due to underground water pipe damage. now the pluming has fixed and everything has been taken care of. the rest of the house already got white tiles throughout. I can go laminate in the living room and tile in the bedroom. both rooms are about 280 sq.ft. or I can do the need room laminate again. I don‘t know how to put the flooring, so I would Gabe to hire someone to do it. we have a Lowes home center where their contractor can come out and to the installation. they want $35 for an estimate. we also have a floor center just down the street from us. their material was little more expensive than the Lowes price but perhaps the installation may be cheaper... I‘m not sure. would tile thought the house including the bedroom better, cheaper than laminate in the bedroom? I know I would want laminate in the living room hopefully nothing gets wet.
Laminate is much cheaper and easier to apply than tile flooring. Tile is a better quality and will last longer than laminate. You simply need to pick which option fits your needs and budget.
Q: I would like to remove some tiles from one area of my kitchen and save as many as possible for use in another area of the kitchen. They are heavy 1979 ceramic tiles. How do I get them up and save some of them?
Having recently removed a s***load of tile during a kitchen remodel, I wish you luck in saving a whole lot of them! Carefully slide a prybar under the edge of the tile---wiggle til it loosens then use the prybar as a lever to remove the tile. It worked for me. Surprisingly many remained whole without chips or cracks, and I wasn't trying to save them. Just didn't want the huge mess involved in the sledgehammer method. LOL
Q: I am tiling my bathroom and in the process of re-tiling the shower stall. I removed the old plastic liner there and now some of the glue remains on the greenboard. Also, some of the green part of the board is ripped of from when the glue came off with the old liner. Some of the paper is flakey in spots. I pulled off some of the loose pieces, but there is more. Now, I‘m an amateur. I was told to use some grout sealer to go over the greenboard. However, since there are flakey pieces of paper from the greenboard on there still, should I simply remove as much as I can before sealing and tiling? Will the seal glue these flakey pieces down and make them secure for tiling? What is your advice? Many thanks!
First of all, remove the greenboard that was under the tile. Replace it with cement board-that's a MUCH better subbase for tile. The peeling you experienced with the board that's up will cause you problems down the road. If you can't remove the greenboard, then your best bet is to sheet over the greenboard with 1/4 cement board, available in the flooring department at Home Depot. You will need to transition the tile where it meets the drywall outside the shower. In no case do you want to apply tile to the damaged greenboard. It will not last.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches