• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6081 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6081 System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6081 System 3
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6081 System 4
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6081

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-G6081

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

 

Tile Type

Glazed Porcelain Tile, floor tiles

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

Size

60x60 mm

Selection Range

Several Colors available

 

Features:

 

1) Unique natural sandstone image designs and exclusive quality;

2) Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

3) Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

4) Material: porcelain

5) Basic size: 600x600x9.8mm, 100x600mm, 150x600mm, 300x300mm, 300x600mm available based on clients’ requirements;

6) Available dimensions

 

Material

Porcelain

Dimension

600x600x9.8 mm

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Finish

Glossy, over 90 degree.

Usage

Floor and wall

 

The glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, exclusive brand showroom, clubs villas as well as other public sites.

We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on clients requirement;

We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as 2nd production and final package.

 

 

Specification and technical parameter:

 

·         Matte Finish, Lapato Finish, Rough Finish

·         Water absorption:<0.1%< span="">

·         Anti-Resistance: R10

·         Delivery Time: within 15~20 days after order confirmation.

·         Package standard: 4pcs/carton, 40 Cartons/pallet, 32 Kgs/Carton.

 

Q: hi i started a tile job yesterday. i was supposed to pull up the old linoleum tile and put new linoleum yile. the only problem was that the ols tile had been put over older tile without being pulled up. so i chipped away a little at a time and it just seemed like it took a long long time. i have blisters all over my right fingers and hand. i still have a big patch to finish tonight, and if anyone knows how to get this stuff up faster please let me know, thank you
You can go to a rental store and get a machine that will take all that up for you. You walk behind it and the blades will rip up the remaining tile. It's big and bulky so you will need something to haul it home. This would save you more blisters but will cost you a little bit money. If it is old tile, then you need to be sure you're not working with asbestos. Hopefully you've had a sample tested.
Q: I need help with my white tile grout. Nothing I do keeps/gets it clean. Any tips for an easy fix to dirty grout, or does anyone know if it‘s possible to add color to grout after it‘s been set?
Products like Clorox or Oxyclean will work if the stain is caused by an organic material. If it is caused by soil or clay that is basically a mineral without a carbon base, the stain probably is permanent. In my experience when staining a concrete floor next to a tile shower we inadvertantly sprayed stain on the shower floor. The pure white grout turned reddish brown just like the concrete did. We had used an acid based stain. I believe you could easily stain the grout successfully. You may want to try it in a non-conspicous area first.
Q: We just had tile intalled in our home. What products do you use (or recommend) to clean tile? On a regular basis? Spill/Accident basis?Also, can anyone recommend a good cordless sweeper (for tile of course)?
Tips okorder /
Q: i have a tile back splash that runs all along my counter including behind my sink and behind my stove. it is a small 1 tile, and i‘m pretty sure it‘s original to the house (40‘s) so it‘s getting kinda grimy. no matter what i do to clean it, it‘s so tough, because of kitchen grease and splatter. the grout isn‘t sealed so it absorbs stains. i keep seeing people say sprinkle baking soda on tile, let it sit, and then clean with vinegar, which would be great if this was a floor, but its a wall, so if there are any solutions, that would be great. natural preferred. i really don‘t want to replace this. painting it is an option, so suggestions on paint for tile would be appreciated as well.
DAWN dish detergent.....THE BEST cleaner in the world.........if it's a tough stain, add a bit of toothpaste or baking soda. Dawn is the best!
Q: The tile grout on my bathroom floor is white in some parts, but dark where husband stands next to the sink/toilet... How can I clean it without having to re-grout it? Can I just spray bleach on or will that ruin the tile?
I have tile in my bathroom also and have had the same problem. I will tell you the best way that is easier on your tile and grout. Do not use bleach it wil break the grout and tile down. Go out to Target and buy the Method brand tub and tile cleaner, also buy a Method mop with Method all purpose floor cleaner, and buy a plastic brush that looks like a tooth brush but it bigger in the cleaning isle. Next get some rugs for the toilet and for infront of the sink. Also go to Lowes and buy some sealer. Now your ready to start. Start buy mopping the intire floor with your mop and all purposed floor cleaner(just have a light spray of cleaner on floor never soak it). Then take you Method tub and tile and spray it on your grout and go to work brushing it and spraying it until it comes white. After it is white and dry read the directions on the sealer bottle and seal the grout. Make the sealer puddle just a little over the grout. Wait till it is dry and from then on you won't have problems with dirt collecting on you grout. If you do, then its time to reseal it again and complete the steps above.
Q: Can I go over the exixting tile,or do I have to remove the old tile first.There is ceramic tile there now,and I want to intsall new ceramic tile.I hope this doesn't sound like a dumb question.
As long as the tile down now is down tight and secure. The surface must be clean and dry w/ no oils or wax on them Dont use your plain latex thin set, get one that is stronger, price will help dictate it. Allow a minimum of an extra day drying time since the moisture has no where to go , before walking and or grouting. Any questions you can e mail me GL
Q: Is it hard to fit tile around the toilet? Should I start there first?
I answered 2 peel and stick tile Q's just today, I wouldn't use it or advise it, but obviously it sells. Cathy has the best first answer, take up the toilet. Without knowing what the old floor is, or the substrate and not knowing how long you plan to occupy the house, IF I was to do the job, I'd use contact cement on the existing floor and back olf the peel and stick. It's available in a lacquer or water base. Steven Wolf After installing thousands of sq. ft. of various flooring types I'd suggest sheet stock as opposed to peel and stick
Q: I have a 10 gallon tank for my adult female leopard gecko, and I have these two tiles for the substrate. I am going to fill in the cracks between the two tiles with sand so it will look nice, i want your guys input on this please.
There are many different things to put as a floor. the most natural for a grown leopard gecko is sand.you should ask at your local pet store or just look at a book on bedding for leopard geckos. If you would like, you can also get a carpet for lizards only (they sell different size carpets for different sized tanks). I have never heard of tiles and floors for them, but how long have you had it like that? is it as simple to clean as sand? i personally think it should be all sand when they are grown.... but research best bedding for them. There are many options. hope this helps and good luck :)
Q: I am tiling my bathroom and in the process of re-tiling the shower stall. I removed the old plastic liner there and now some of the glue remains on the greenboard. Also, some of the green part of the board is ripped of from when the glue came off with the old liner. Some of the paper is flakey in spots. I pulled off some of the loose pieces, but there is more. Now, I‘m an amateur. I was told to use some grout sealer to go over the greenboard. However, since there are flakey pieces of paper from the greenboard on there still, should I simply remove as much as I can before sealing and tiling? Will the seal glue these flakey pieces down and make them secure for tiling? What is your advice? Many thanks!
If you have gone that far, I would either tear out the greenboard and replace it with cement board, or you might be able to cement board right over the greenboard. The cement board will outlast the next 50 familys that will use that bathroom. It is great stuff, well worth the effort. Don't try patching the greenboard, it is not worth the effort. Do it right and be done with it forever.
Q: Okay so i live in an apartment and i cant EVER get mant. out here to fix this... the stuff thats between the tiles is missing and it looks gross and then the white rubber stuff that sits between the tub and the tile is coming off in random places.... what is this stuff called and would i be able to fix this junk myself???The white stuff that connects the tubs looks like that white stuff they use to connect the base boards to the hardwood floor...
The white stuff between the tiles is GROUT! Yes you can grout your own tiles easily! And the white stuff round the bath is silicone and you can do this easily too. Go to a DIY store and but the ready to use grout and apply it as per the instructions on the tub and the same with the silicone! Should not take too long and looks loads better when done! Also this protects against water damage to the walls etc. Good luck!

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