• DGZDW Microcomputer-controlled DC Power Panel System 1
DGZDW Microcomputer-controlled DC Power Panel

DGZDW Microcomputer-controlled DC Power Panel

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The DC power supply panel serves in power generation plants and substations to function as power supply needed for opening & closing of high-voltage switch in case of normal operation or emergency state relaying protection automatic protection emergency lighting and sound project. It also serves as power supply in such occasions as metallurgical industry railway mine petrochemical industry post telecom hospital bank hotel tall building and computer network etc.

1. Input voltage: AC380V ±15%;50HZ±5%;three-phase four wire,two way put in,
2. Output voltage: DC220V,DC110V,DC48V;DC24V.
3. Output voltage: controled busbar (KM)5~200A,closing busbar(HM)5~3000A      4. charge storage capacity (AH): 10~ 3000;
5. regulation accuracy: ≤ 0.5%; steady flow coefficient: ≤ 0.5%;
6. ripple: ≤ 0.5%; system efficiency: ≥ 92%;
7. Noise: ≤ 50dB;
8. Dielectric strength: 2000V/min no flashover and breakdown

Q: Google isn't helping me very much with this one. I want to increase my lighting power on my scooter.I have a 2004 SYM RV (aka Joyride) 180cc. It's second generation.It currently sports a 55/60W halogen as the front headlight. It's not great, but it's sufficient.I live in Taiwan and am not a native speaker, but I do my best to do the work myself. I'd call myself an intermediate with scooter repair. Can't find much in the way of information about the electricals though.I want to install a fog lamp on my fork for short-medium range light. The stuff that is for scooters and motorcycles is usually pretty lame or just for visibility. I live in the countryside and often do a one-hour commute on poorly lit highways between 80 and 110 kph. More lightgood.Where can I find out what my electricals can take?How the heck does the scooter generate electricity anyhow?What are the dangers of putting too high a load?Where can I find more info on HID lighting?Thanks!
When it comes to adding electrical stuff on a bike(or anything)you need to know how much amperage the total equipment will draw.You need to find the output of your alternator and how many amps your electrical system draws now.Then how much whatever lights you want to add draw.If you exceed the output your system will not be able to keep up and your battery will discharge instead of charge.That's the best i can do for an answer as i have no idea what that is your riding.Chances are your electrical system couldn't handle the amperage draw of too much extra lighting.Try looking in your owners manual or a repair manual for the amperage output of your scooter and go from there.Or contact the technical department of that company and ask them if you can add extra lights.They will know.
Q: I opened up my mouse, and im currently using it without the top, because the left click on the mouse is only working about 1 in every 50 or so clicks with the shell on it.Is there a way I can make the click work again with the shell on or do I simply have to buy a new mouse?
If you like repairing electronics, you could buy a small momentary SPST switch at Radio Shack or somewhere and install it. I had a mouse like this and it worked fine for years, it was a bit better than a regular mouse in fact because my index finger was raised a bit higher because of the height of the switch; less pressure necessary to click.
Q: i want to make a bulb on and off at intervals of say half an hour. readymade timers available in shops(india) costs much and does not support shorter intervals like half an hour. any cheaper electronic circuit which can do this control? from where can i get the circuit or its diagram?
Depending on your skills, a CMOS 555 timer chip could probably drive a solid state switch (triac) for this interval although a more reliable timing, especially if you want exactly a 50% duty cycle, by feeding the timer output into a counter, so that the 555 cycles say 32 times (once a minute about) for each change of state of the selected output. Smaller cycle times are more stable.
Q: If this is maintained, but voltage changed from 480V to 240V, by what ratio will supply line losses change?
Power voltage x current Therefore current power/voltage. Thus, if power is constant at 2000kW current at 480 volts will be: I 2000,000/480 4166.67amps At 240 volts: I 2000,000/240 8333.33 amps However, line losses are current (squared) x resistance Thus the ratio will be 4166.67 (squared) / 8333.33 (squared), resistance remaining constant of course. I make that 0.25 (or 4, if you are thinking that way up!) That help?
Q: I will go to American in next month and I need to get some pieces of equipment e.gcamera,digital vedio,so I need someone canlet me know how much walt use in u.s.a .Because we use 210 walt in Hong Kong.I need to bring the adaptor or not.Chelsia Leung
110 for most plug in equipment, 220 for appliances like a refridgerator or stove.
Q: I would like a serious answer from a professional who would know about these things from being part of the military or etc.When the air burst missile exploded, everything electrical stopped working. At the end of the movie, the girl asked if the phones are working and the guy replied Are you kidding, they'll never be phones again.Is that a true statement? Can anything electrical ever work again?? Or did he say that because the world at the time in their point of view looked unrepairable ?Also, if I was in a well constructed fallout shelter with all my stuff and I wanted to save Computers, TV etc. will it get affected from the outside air burst missile? (I know a lot of people are gonna yell why keep those when you can't use electricity again after a nuclear war 1, I just wanted to know, 2 I could use them in the shelter if I have Generator batteries for room lighting and everything else)
You are referring to electromagnetic pulse. The strongest part of the pulse lasts for only a fraction of a second, but any unprotected electrical equipment — and anything connected to electrical cables, which act as giant lightning rods or antennas — will be affected by the pulse. Older, vacuum tube (valve) based equipment is much less vulnerable to EMP than newer solid state equipment; Soviet Cold War–era military aircraft often had avionics based on vacuum tubes due both to limitations in Soviet solid-state capabilities and a belief that the vacuum gear would survive better. On the other hand, the solid state PRC-77 VHF manpack radio survived extensive EMP testing. The earlier PRC-25, nearly identical except for a vacuum tube final, had been tested in EMP simulators but was not certified to remain fully functional.
Q: for my hair dryer and other electrical equipment
Its a 3 pin plug herenot to worryjust get your stuffyou can buy a converter herealso electricity is 110V. so be mindful of that as well.cheers
Q: I know that B is flammable liquid and C is electrical equipment. thanks.
A puts out fires of ordinary combustibles, such as wood and paper.
Q: I know that I need to get an oscilloscope and a power supply but is there something else that I should plan on getting?
Probably the best tools are a good quality digital multi meter, high voltage Pliers . oscilloscope is pretty expensive and is mostly usefull for Electronics not Electrical. Electronic is the voltages between 0-90 V and everything that you work more than 90V is Electrical and in that rate you must use saftey tools, which have been made for this purpose. If you are an electronics engineer who want to desige and make PCBs you need some softwares like Protel on your PC. if you like to work with Microcontrollers, you need some compiler and programmer specially made to program your microprocessors. A good clean workbench will help you to work properly, so it is better to buy some plastic shelves to put your components in . Don't forget to buy at least two breadboard, they will help you to test your projects before making PCBs, but be aware that Breadboard is not a good thing for high frequency projects. have a good one
Q: I have a 1992 F-150 with a 5.0 302 in it. Last week she started going haywire. My battery wasn't holding a charge, my spedometer was bouncing up and down and my mileage read was coming in and out. I had the diagnostics test done from Auto-Zone that tested your battery, alternator, and starter. They said that my alternator had low power output but everything else was fine. My dad (he's a mechanic) said I had to replace my voltage connectors on my alternator. We did that and she acted fine for about a week. Battery was holding a charge, no problems at all. A couple days ago, my battery light popped on and the battery is not holding a charge AT ALL. I constantly have to charge it. Any ideas on what the new issue could be?
change the alternator and make sure the belt is good and tight ! your voltage regulator is inside the alternator and it,s acting up !

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