• CARRARA MARBLE DESIGN LOOK TILE 60X60 60X120 System 1
  • CARRARA MARBLE DESIGN LOOK TILE 60X60 60X120 System 2
  • CARRARA MARBLE DESIGN LOOK TILE 60X60 60X120 System 3
  • CARRARA MARBLE DESIGN LOOK TILE 60X60 60X120 System 4
  • CARRARA MARBLE DESIGN LOOK TILE 60X60 60X120 System 5
  • CARRARA MARBLE DESIGN LOOK TILE 60X60 60X120 System 6
CARRARA MARBLE DESIGN LOOK TILE 60X60 60X120

CARRARA MARBLE DESIGN LOOK TILE 60X60 60X120

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Loading Port:
Shekou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 m²
Supply Capability:
20000 m²/month

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    600*600mm  Carrar marble look tile

  • Sizes: 600 x 600,600*1200mm,  GRADE:AAA

  • Thicknesses: 9.5-10.5mm

  • Water absorption: 0.5%

  • Surface: Polished

  • Min. order quantity:500 SQM

  • Certificates: CE and ISO9001

  • Usage area: Be suitable for market, hospital, metro, school, office building, hotel, real estate, bar and living room etc.

  • Package: standard export paper carton with wooden pallet

  • Payment terms: T/T or irrevocable L/C at sight

  • Delivery time: With 20 days after deposit

  •  CARRARA MARBLE DESIGN LOOK TILE 60X60 60X120

Product Parameter

Surface Finish

Glazed

Size

600x600mm    600x120mm

MOQ

3-4 items can be mixed in 1x20Gp is in   stock

Packing details

850CTN-1224M2/20GP

OEM

Designs can be produced according to your   requirement

Payment terms

T/T,L/C ,WESTERN UNION

 

Test Item

GB/T4100.1-2010

Test Result

Length Tolerance

Length

599.7~600.0

Side Straight

±0.2

-0.04~+0.05

Right Angle

±0.2

-0.05~+0.04

Surface Flatness

Center curvature

-0.04~+0.04

Surface Quality

Aminimum of   95% of the tiles

shall be free   from visible defects

No visible defects

Water Absorption

Mean value E≤0.5

0.08

Breaking Pressure

When the   thickness is ≥7.5mm,

the average   shall be ≥1300

1764.6

Modulus of Rupture

Mean value ≥35

37.2

Luster Degree

≥55

70-73

Abrasion Resistance

≤175

131

Resistance to Frost

No crack or peeling

No

Resistance to   Household

Chemical   Reagent

Not lower than UB level

UA level

Resistance to Chemical

of Swimming Pool

Not lower than UB level

UA level


SIZE/mm

PCS/CTN

KG/CTN

SQM/CTN

CTN/20

SQM/20'

KG/20'

600x600

4

32

1.44

864

1244.16

27000

600x1200

2

35

1.44

768

1105.92

27000

 

Q: So I have the substrate ready, the room is a L shape 253 x 148. Where do I start the tile, I am assuming the center of each on a chalk line. Is this correct?Bond
Kosh has a very good point that I was going to bring up that no one else has. When dry laying tile out going off a center line and you end up w/ less than 1/2 a tile at your longest site line then shift over a 1/2 tile and remark your lines. Dont just go off your longest site line and lay whole tile. Yes a few more cuts and a bit more time but it s your own job and you want it to look the best.. As far as a grout joint you didn t say what you are laying ..Soft bodied tile w/ lugs are butted together( leave just a hairline space to make adjustments for sizing . ( unsanded grout only) With hard bodied tile stay in the 1/4 inch 3/16 range any larger and it looks gaudy I think. Any smaller and it s harder unless you have a good tile and or experience working w/ tile.. GL
Q: I had subway tile installed over a standard size tub. The tiler used 2 x 6 bullnose for the vertical boarder rather than maintaining the staggered look by using 3 x 6 bullnose short as I initially intended. Is there a most common approach for the vertical subway boarder around a tub?
I am going to assume the border is a 2x6 turned vertically. Normally a border tile is used and the grout lines rarely line up because of size. However, if you instructed the setter how you wanted it to look. That is what should be done. I belive you are paying him not the other way around. They do have tiles with the bullnose on the short side(left or right). Find a new tiler. Ask for money back. Stand your ground. I build new homes for a living. This kind of crap drives me nutz! Good luck.
Q: I am planning on tiling the backsplash area of my kitchen. I am using 6x6 ceramic porecelin tile (roman stone). The dimensions of the area is 17x60. When i went to scrape the original paint off of the wall I will be tiling, the first thin layer of the drywall came off with the paint. This layer is paper thin. I went to Home Depot and they told me to use Zissner 123 sealer. I put on two coats and the wall seems sealed pretty good. I will be using Mastic as my adhesive. Do you think that I will be ok tiling three tiles high (first tile is laying on the granite countertop) without using a backerboard. Will the drywall be able to hold the mastic/tile even though I ripped off a thin layer of drywall but sealed it with 123 sealer?
You will be just fine installing your tile to the primed sheetrock. Mastic is great but, expensive. As for your grout joints, you should use either a 3/16 grout joint or a 1/4 grout joint, be sure to use sanded grout. As for your notch trowel, I would advise you to use a 1/4x1/4x1/4 notch trowel. It depends on the thickness of the tile. Well, good luck.
Q: If so, what do you clean it with? I have one in my kitchen I hate it! I‘m always cleaning it and we don‘t even wear shoes in the house but yet it always looks like it has blackheads! I have used the magic eraser to get the marks off but it‘s a p.i.t.a. :)
I do our tile the hard way with a big industrial cloth mop and common household cleaner and ours is in pretty good shape. The texture in the tiles will trap dirt in the crevasses a lot easier and that's why I use a heavy mop to get in there and clean.
Q: After laying the tile I noticed that they have a hazy patch which appears unglazed in each tile. Is there a substance that I could apply to give the tiles an even look?
Did you glaze them yourself? If not call the manufacturer....they should send a rep to your home or send a sample of tiles to determine what to do.
Q: Can I leave them alone and simply go over them w/ mud and ceramic tile . I really don‘t want to open the hazmat can of worms by getting the tiles tested.The tiles look like that mutfti pattern common in office buildings and schools and secured w/ a mastic.Thanks
If the tiles are 9x9, they are VA, vinyl asbestos. If the tiles are 12x12, they are VCT, vinyl composite, and the same installation rules apply to both types. Most quality latex modified thin set motars will set over the VA and VCT with no problem, as long as the VA or VCT are bonded securely to the concrete slab. Use TEC Superflex or Mapei Ultraflex 3, which have more portland cement and latex for better bonding. Prior to installation of your porcelain or ceramic, please thoroughly wash the VA or VCT tile with a strong stripper to remove any oils or waxes that might interfere with the mortar bonding. Then, rinse the tile with clean water. You will not have any hazardous waste problems, since you have not disturbed the VA tile and have encapsulated them permanently.
Q: Sanding parquet floor tiles, advice please.My hall floor is covered in parquet tiles.The tiles themselves are made up on 1 inch by 5 inch sections, 5 to a tile.The tiles are laid so that the grain on the tiles is alternate and opposite its neighbour. So the grain on some go North-South, the next in line goes East-WestMy sander has a face larger than any one tile.Do I have to sand along the grain, in which case I‘d have to buy a tiny grinder, or can I just sand all over the tiles and not bother about sanding along the grain? Assuming I have sanded, how do I seal the completed job? Varnish?
First okorder / wood finish. It ain't cheap but you will be able to add new coats of finish later on without having to completely refinish the whole floor. You can rent a 'square sander' from Home Depot for abut $40 a day. It uses 4 six inch disk type sand paper. It doesn't dig in when started which allows a first time DIY person to do a good job. You move it around by putting pressure on the handle, real easy to use. Takes longer than a belt sander but you won't make mistakes. Make sure when you rent it that you get different size paper AND that they will stick (like velcro) to the sander unit face. You don't want to get home, start to use it and the sand paper disks fall off!! Had that happen with one. If you have a large floor to do rent the sander around 3 pm. You get 24 hours so you can sand from 3-11pm, go to bed, then start over in the morning. Otherwise you have to work from morning to evening. Makes for a long day.
Q: I‘m installing new tile in my bathroom and had a few questions.1. I understand that I‘m supposed to remove the toilet prior to laying the tile. So I remove the toilet, lay new tile, and then put the toilet on top of the tile? Does this mean that the toilet will sit on the tile? If so, won‘t there be a very little gap where the tile and toilet meet? Are you supposed to seal this gap? Or, do you cut the tile around the shape of the bottom of the toilet and tile around it?2. Same question with the vanity. I‘m replacing my old vanity. Do I have to remove the old vanity, lay tile in the whole area where the old vanity was, and then install the new vanity on top of the tile? Again, what about the small gap? Does it need to be sealed? What do you seal it with?3. How do you remove the old vanity? Do you simply disconnect the plumbing, remove the screws holding it to the wall, and pry it from the wall?Any comments, suggestions, or advice are appreciated.
Its best to have the floor go under the vanity, and never tile around a toilet it will look terrible.. 1. Remove toilet by turning off water valve, disconnecting supply line and unscrewing flange bolts. 2. Remove vanity by turning off water valves, disconnecting supply lines and drain. This can be done with a channel lock wrench. Then unscrew any screws that are holding it into wall. 3. Tile the floor. As for the closet flange for the toilet, ideally you want it on top of your floor. You may be able to unscrew it and raise it up a half inch or so. If not, tile around it and use a double wax ring when you reset the toilet. 4. Reset vanity and reconnect supply and drain lines
Q: i have ceramic tiles that are loose hollow underneath
Many possible reasons why.. To little adhesive used ( usually a thin set not a grout) .Thin set to dry. Thin set to wet. Under supported tile such as incorrect under layment.Under layment installed incorrect. Incorrect adhesive for the job. Thin set skimmed over during setting and didn t bond to the tile. Installer didn t press and twist the tile into the thin set correctly. Some one walked on the tile to soon after setting and the bond is broke between the thin set and the tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there.
Q: I just finished grouting my tile yesterday I want to remove the haze with vinager should I let the grout cure for three days,then seal it and then scrub the whole floor including going over the grout lines (which would be then sealed) scrubbing with a sponge and avoiding the non cured grout is working but is taking far too long
Clear water should work. You're supposed to get all that off before you leave it to dry. Do seal it after the curing process. Even dark grouts get dirty. Sealing helps a lot.

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