Accelerating Admixture Concrete Admixture

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

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Quick Details

Classification:Chemical Auxiliary Agent
Place of Origin: China (Mainland)
Type:Other
Usage:Coating Auxiliary Agents, Rubber Auxiliary Agents

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	25kg/bag
Delivery Detail:	within three weeks

Specifications

accelerator
Non-chloride Accelerating Admixture
AS 1478.1 Type Ac and ASTM C494 Type C

accelerator

Product Description

SA is a ready-to-use liquid admixture formulated to accelerate the setting time of concrete and to produce high-early strength in special application concrete. It does not contain added chloride and conforms to the most stringent chloride ion limits required by concrete industry standards.

Recommended For

All types of concrete where a type accelerator is beneficial:

concrete subject to chloride ion constraints such as high rise buildings in coastal environments

concrete blocks and bricks used to obtain high early and ultimate strengths in concrete particularly where steel reinforcement is absent.

concrete placed on galvanised steel floor and roof systems which are left in place

precast concrete either pre-tensioned or post-tensioned

concrete pipes and other manufactured concrete products such as tiles and blocks

concrete highway and bridge construction

cold weather concreting

Features and Benefits

SA has a significantly faster setting time than plain concrete.

Increasing the dosage rate increases set acceleration.

Both the compressive and the flexural strengths of concrete develop, more rapidly than with plain concrete.

Benefits to concrete construction and to the manufacture of concrete products because of this earlier setting and strength gain in cold weather include:

earlier finishing of slab-work without the need for calcium chloride

more efficient scheduling, generally faster construction and earlier occupancy

earlier stripping and re-use of forms for walls, precast work and other fast-track construction

earlier structural use of concrete such as tilt-slab, paving, floors, car-park

potential energy savings in steam cured concrete (precast, pre-stressed, blocks) by reducing curing temperatures and/or steaming time necessary to reach desired transfer strengths

SA contains no added chlorides which means it will not initiate or promote the corrosion of reinforcing steel.

Addition Rates

Range: 1.0% - 3.0% by weight of cement. The performance of SA is best assessed after preliminary tests on site to determine the optimum dosage and effect on compressive strength. As a guide to these trials, an addition rate of 1000ml-3000ml SA per 100 kg cement is recommended.

Packaging & Storage

SA is supplied in 205 litre sealed drums and bulk delivery.

Q: what are additive subgroups? i.e. 8Z + 12Z, what additive subgroup is it?: ur answers were very supportive. wat about z/6z is tis one is same as you described above. and i want the same level of explanation for finding number of group homomorphism from s3 to z/6z.

Q: why overusing of food additives is prevalent in some countries?: usually as a preservative or to improve the flavor of lesser quality food.

Q: with motor oil and new filter.: I would imagine the answer is yes, but why would you want to do this, they are basically the same thing(a teflon additive)

Q: i have a 1974 nova and people keep telling me i need to put a lead additive into my gas. is this true. the vehicle has an inline 6 motor.: One per wheel, you do the math.

Q: I usually only use them when I am traveling on long road trips, but I know they recommend using them every time you fill the tank. Is using them the same as using buying premium gas vs. the regular?: STP fuel additives do work. I use some form of cleaner about every five tank fulls when I am not buying gas at a national brand station (like Shell). There are the cleaner types and there are octane boosters. Both work, but unless you are a real enthusiast more then likely the octane boosters will not be doing you any real good. Some times it is a false savings, I have not done the math lately, but the last time I did, it was cheaper to just buy the better gas then to buy the cheap gas and add additives.

Q: I have a 2002 VW Passat 1.8L T for future reference.I bought some oil treatment additive and I was wondering in what condition should I have my engine in to apply the oil treatment. Also, is it okay to apply two bottles of 1.45 FL OZ of treatment or just one.: There aren't too many additives of any type I would recommend. If you do use one, then read the instructions as to how to use it and follow them; more is not better! I saw a ford pick up a person put in 6 quarts of STP. locked up the engine when it cooled down, had to take it all apart and clean it out. The best thing to do is keep any and all fluids clean and fresh. Gas treatments only foul the spark plugs, tranny additives only ruin the seals. If you end up using it, put it in when the engine is warm and drive it for a while to mix it up.

Q: This came up in my phlebotomy class and the teacher didn‘t really know. It must be an anticoagulant, right?: N is correct about it being Na citrate + dextrose; using packed cells (taking off plasma) removes some of it (it is about 50 ccs per unit of blood currently it is called CPDA-1). If this could be a problem, packed red cells can also be washed, removing all the anticoagulant.

Q: I bought my used salvaged car in what looks to be a very good condition. I do oil changes EVERY 3000 miles, sometimes less. I use 5w-20 like the manufacturer ask. My last oil change was actually done at a quick lube place. they used their stupid over stock 10w-30 and probably crappy oil filter. I‘ll see what oil filter they used today when I do my oil change. (I was busy and asked a friend of mine to get the oil changed)Anyways. I‘ve had this problem for a while now. Now that it‘s getting colder, my engine is starting to knock or click or whatever in the cold morning when I first start up my car. I want to use Gunk Engine Flush and Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. I actually want to start flushing my engine out before every oil change and I want to see if the stabilizer will stop the knocking. I‘ll switch to synthetic on my next oil change to see a difference. Then, I‘ll go back to conventional to see if there really is a difference. What are your thoughts?: For the best answers, search on this site shorturl.im/axXZT If you have the oil and filter changed according to accepted change intervals (3000 - 5000 miles, provided not more than 3 months elapse between changes) you will NEVER need an engine flush, unless you experience a blown head gasket which causes coolant to become mixed with the oil. Engine flushes were commonly needed back in the '60's because the oil additives in use then were much less capable of keeping the bad stuff in the oil in suspension and removing it from the engine oil is drained. With today's type SF and SG oils this simply is not a problem. Hawking engine oil flushes today is akin to selling Snake Oil and only the inexperienced quick lube employees who are brainwashed to sell sell sell believe it is of any benefit in a normal operation and maintainance program. A cooling system flush about every 30 to 50 thousand miles along with the installation of new coolant is good maintainance.

Q: and can you please describe each of them?: All the pipes have to be empty. Buy some flux and solder, lightly sand the ends of the pipe you will be soldering. Coat both pieces of pipe with flux, and put them together. Use a propane torch to heat the pieces of pipe at the connection, put the solder at the connection and move it completely around the connection. The heat will draw the solder into the connection , don't use too much solder. It would be best to experiment a couple of times on some scrap pieces to get the idea before you try the real thing.

Q: I have a 99 vw jetta.and the lifters are tapping.not bad.just looking for a cheap alternative.: You can first try the Valvoline MaxLife oil the next time you change the oil and if that doesn't help, then you can try some STP or Lucas oil additive. This slightly thickens the oil and makes it stickier. Or you can bump up to a 10w40 oil and see if that helps. I ran 10w40 oil for many years in my older model cars and never had a problem even in the dead of winter. I used to use 20w50 in my VW GTI when traveling cross country, 900 miles in a day, and that cut down on the oil consumption. Good Luck!

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