Vertical Condensate Water Pump . System 1

Vertical Condensate Water Pump .

Ref Price:: $6,000.00 - 60,000.00 / set

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Product Description:

1. Description

Vertical barrel pumps are multistage, radically split with an outer casing. Fist stage impeller is generally suction impeller, the axially forces are balanced by a thrust ball bearing. Balancing the drum structure can be accomplished when the differential pressure is large. The outer casing only bears the suction pressure, the length of the outer casing and the pump installation depth depends on NPSHr performance requests. If the pump is installed on a tank or pipeline, the outer casing is not necessary.

Light oil lubricated, it has an independent internal recycle automatic lubrication system. Hydraulic dynamic bearing is in the suction end of the pump. Suction and discharge is above the installation flange.

2. Application

Suitable for various liquids include clean or dirty, low temperature or high temperature, neutral or corrosive

Low temperature engineering, power plant

Pipeline pressure increasing

Petrochemical offshore oilfields

LPG engineering

Refinery

3. Technical Data

Size: DN 40~200mm

Capacities to 800m3/h (3522GPM)

Heads to 800m (2625ft)

Pressure to 10MPa

4. Pump Performance

5. FAQ

1 Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2 Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3 Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4 Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q:i have a significant stream of water running out of the coolant return side of the engine under the coolant pipe on a 1997 caravan i will lose a gallon and then it stops until the engine heats up and of course more comes out with expansion: You will have to remove the AC compressor, all of the drive belts, alternator bracket, power steering pump and bracket, motor mount, timing cover, and the timing belt. This job calls for 4.3 hours and I was able to do one in about 3. If you really want to attempt this yourself, let me know and I will give you detailed step by step instructions to do it, right down to the timing marks and what size each bolt is. If you have never done a water pump/timing belt on any car before, I strongly recommend you don't attempt this repair yourself. The 3.0 really isn't a bad one to do, if you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge and ability.

Q:was putting a water pump on, and i tight too much on 2 bolts, and they broke. is it anyway to fix it ?? is it going to cost alot in labor ??: Well if the bolts are sticking out of the engine enough you can try screw extractors you can buy a set at your local store hammer that on then use a wrench or socket Extension to remove it. When you install the new bolts use a little anti-seeze and use a torque wrench.

Q:I have a 2001 chevy malibu and need to know how to check if the water pump needs replaced. The engine has been running much hotter than normal and is leaking coolant.: It completely depends on where its leaking coolant from. If it's leaking from the water pump drive, yes, you need to replace it. If its running hotter than normal, it could be a number of things, but still could lead back to the waterpump.

Q:antifreeze leaking from the water pump. antifreeze wont stay in car, car overheating. 96 chevy cavalier. 2.4: So what is your question? If you know the problem, either replace it yourself (which I would NOT recommend), or take it to a mechanic, to have it replaced. On this particular vehicle, it's a major undertaking, since the water pump is driven by the timing chain, if I recall correctly. To access it requires removing the engine mount, and front timing chain cover. Installation requires having the engine re-timed. Although I'm not familiar with GM products, as a rule of thumb, engines that use a timing chain, are usually an INTERFERENCE engine (which means piston/valve damage WILL result, if mistimed). The labour time guides lists 8 hours for this repair on this particular vehicle, with this particular engine. That should tell something, since water pumps are usually listed for about 2 to 3 hours labour on most vehicles. Hope this helps.

Q:94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks: problematic point. lookup on to a search engine. that will can assist!

Q:We had a leak in our car and took it to get checked out. They said it is the water pump. Also that it would be around $650 to replace. I know nothing about cars. Is this necessary? and does the cost sound about right? We are going on a 3 hour trip one way this weekend. Would it need to be done before then? thanks guys!: on cars with water pumps that run off the timing belt it can be pricey to replace. If its a vehicle that has a water pump running off the accessory belt it shouldn't be to much unless its a BMW or foreign. state what kind of car its for it could help us answer. also do the water pump before the trip, if its really bad then getting stranded will cost you alot more.

Q:We have 2 1995 E320's that are heating up way too high when running. One has been diagnosed at the repair shop for a malfunctioning fan clutch. They also said that as the car was running hot the water pump and thermostat should also be replaced (??) The water pump is 5.5 hours of labor and I cannot afford it right now. I was wondering how hard to replace it myself. Thanks: 95 Mercedes E320

Q:About 3 weeks ago our water stopped. We replaced the switch at the pump and it was fine. Today when I was running water, it stopped again. I went and flipped the breaker on it, but it still didn't come on. About 20 minutes later, it started working again. Have you ever had this happen or do you know what the problem could be?: The pump has a capacitor start motor. Electrolytic capacitors fail. The capacitor is not physically down the well with the motor though, just electrically connected. There should be a pump control box on your wall somewhere with a pump shut off lever on the side, some relays and a large motor start capacitor hidden inside the box. Kill the main power, open the box, remove the capacitor and replace it with a new one with the same number on it. You can get them at any pump supply place, or even just order it on the internet. I recommend taking a picture first for reassembly if you can't understand the schematic on the inside of the box. Sometimes electrolyte from the bulged out old cap obliterates the schematic anyway, so having a pic is a good idea. Look on the internet for motor start caps if you can't figure out which item it is.

Q:2000 3.3L engine. I understand,depending on engine year, it can be a very difficult job. Is this the one or is it much more difficult on the 3.0 L ? One involves timing belt ? Help ? Thanks' Ken: The 3.0L has the timing belt so I think you got the easier engine

Q:Every year my family spends a week on a house boat at Lake Powell where it can get extremely hot in the day time. I'd like to build a mist system using pvc pipes and mist spray heads to help cool us down.I'm not sure what kind of water pump to buy? I've looked at different kinds from submersible to non-submersible, all with different amounts of PSI and GPM. I am not familiar with water pumps and could use some community insight.I want to make sure the pump I get does not burn out because of the back pressure it will get due to the mist heads only allowing a little water to escape at a time.I imagine my mist system would have 8 - 12 heads, reaching no more then 30 feet from water source to the end.Any pointers? Thanks!: I am assuming your water source will be the lake …. I would be looking at a submersible pump possibly a pond pump but you need to know what the “lift” is going to be …from the point where you string the mister to the pump {possibly a 15 foot lift} and a pump that will give you at least 25psi. Because you are going to have back pressure, the submersible will reduce the risk of burn out. Also you need to build a simple enclosed container this pump can sit in, with at least a 4”water inlet hole covered with mosquito netting, nylon hosiery, or something to filter the water….otherwise you will constantly be removing the mister heads to clean

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