Single Stage Vertical Axial Flow Pump

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General Description
ZLB/ZLD series single stage vertical axial flow pumps are provided for delivering clear water, sewage water, rain water and other liquid with slight corrosive. The highest temperature of the liquid is not allowed more than 50℃.This series pumps have the features of large capacity and low head. It is widely used for agriculture irrigation, water conservancy, water supply and drainage for municipal facilities, farm land, pollution water treatment,power station, water lifting.

Performance range

Capacity Q: 18～1368 m3/h
Head H: 100～360m

Instruction of pump type
Example1

500ZLB-6.

500： outlet diameter of pump（mm）

DK： Multi -stage horizontal split centrifugal pump

Z: Axial flow pump

L： Vertical.

B: Blades adjustable when stationary (D-fixed blades)

6.3: Head at design point or Pump Specific Speed.

Structure
The pump is vertically installed with the inlet vertical downward and the outlet horizontal extending. The pump and the motor are connected directly and mounted on separate foundation. The axial thrust of the pump is carried by the motor. The pump adopts rubber guiding bearings. The seal usually uses packing seal.

Material of main parts
Shaft: High-quality carbon steel.
Impeller: Cast iron / Cast steel / Stainless steel.
Other parts: Cast iron / welded steel plate.

Parts Range
pump, motor, common Foundation plate , sluice valve and check valve.

Remaind:
Please indicate the material of main parts in your inquiry or purchase contract. Any special requirement, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Q:I have 2004 Chevy Trailblazer V8 4x4 that the water pump went out on. Does anyone know how long it takes to change it and where it is located? The dealer wants $750.00 to fix it. I really don't want to get riped off.: 2004 Trail Blazer

Q:mercury 9.8hp.installed a new water pump impeller and still no water circulating through engine. no blockage anywhere. now what??? i`m stumped at this point.: This engine has a hose that discharges a small stream of water when running. But most of the water is discharged through the center of the prop. It's not uncommon for this hose to plug from small bits of sand and mud. a small wire can unplug it. If the thermostat is stuck this might cause what your describing, but it's rare. Is it possible that the little round drive pin that goes between the impeller and the drive-shaft, broke or came out during assembly? Or the guide tube in the lower leg (intermediate housing) is not in place of blocked. Sometimes the sleeve that seals this gets crumpled under during installation and can block the flow. My recommendation is to disassemble and check each step until you've found the problem, or satisfied your self that everything is right.

Q:I have a pontiac grand am 1996 v6 with a 3.1L 3100 SFI engine. I have a coolant leak and I think it's coming from the water pump. When the car is cool and then turned on, about 4 to 9 minutes into warming up, coolant is hitting a belt and spraying out of the car's front end. When this is happening I see that there is coolant dripping off of the waterpump housing. The coolant started to spray everywhere about 15 seconds before the radiator fan kicked in. Why would this happen when first warming up only? Can a defective thermostat cause this to happen?: i would suspct waterpump

Q:2004 chevy impala 3.4 v6 The small leak is right behind the pulley of the water pump. Car is not overheating .the leak is only for a little while then it stops . water pump seems to be working fine but the leak ,what could it be ?: water pump seal is bad. it will get worse. just replace the water pump now and save yourself future problems. like losing all your water and over heating your engine. you need a new water pump.

Q:Today I was installing a new water pump on my 1999 grand Prix. When tightening the bolts one of them snapped off. Now the pump leaks from that broken bolt. I was wondering if I would be able to stop the leak using some sort of sealant or would I have to take the car in to get the bolt removed?: Go the your local hardware store and ask them for a bolt extractor kit. You will need to drill into the center of the bolt about 1/2 inch and then change the bit to the extractor that's in the kit. Try to keep the drill level and back it out slowly. Don't forget to get a new bolt also.

Q:In case our electric goes out we would like to be able to run the water pump (for the well) via solar panel. Can you give me instructions, pitfalls, recommendations, links etc to help me get started?The more solar info i can get the better!thanks 10 points on offer!Our sunlight is unobstructed: First okorder /

Q:How to design its control circuit, to prevent it idling, what peripheral equipment do you need?: The centrifugal pump can not be idle, idle will wear packing (packing seal, mechanical seal is almost not damaged) parts, also caused the seal ring, seal, etc. the balance disc wear quickly, and the temperature will rise sharply, causing damage; air transfer effects caused by transient overload voltage of the motor is large, if the motor can not automatically jump to motor will burn.Centrifugal pump mostly rely on the delivery of liquid lubrication and cooling seal of centrifugal pump, idling is empty load, is to open the inlet valve, close the exit valve operation can move, try reversing or empty load operation should be based on the inevitable time, pump specification shall prevail.

Q:Ac was working fine before the mechanic replaced the water pump. Now the AC only blows hot air. Is this related?: TELL US WHAT CAR AND WHAT ENGINE IT HAS !!! There all not the same. But since I'm here, I'll give you the bigger picture. MOST water pumps are buried under the front of the engine. That means to replace them you have to get the belts and other accessories out of the way. A bracket from the a/c compressor might have to be removed to get to your water pump. That shouldn't cause a problem. The first thing I'd do is see if the guy unplugged the a/c compressor pulley. It's just a few wires that connect to the compressor clutch. If unplugged you get hot air, and no a/c'. Find your a/c compressor and see if the plug is connected and not damaged. He didn't reset your a/c settings to heat, did he ? I'm sure you checked that first. He would do that to make sure the cooling system was full, after he finished the job. The A/C is not part of your engines cooling system so it wasn't drained as part of the pump job.

Q:how to remove water pump on 95 honda accord: The water pump is located behind the timing belt, and one of the motor mounts also happens to be on the front cover. So you would need to support the engine, take the front engine mount off, take the timing cover off, remove the timing belt (good time to replace it, while you're in there), tensioners, pulleys, then remove the water pump. I'd replace the timing belt idler pulleys and tensioners as well. Installation is reverse of removal.

Q:There are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card, is not a bad capacitor, how much is the direct standard capacitance it?: The home pump does not turn, but the motor is energized:A: there are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card. It is likely that the boot capacitor is broken and that the capacitor can be measured with a universal meter.Two: if the motor is sure to have electricity, check whether there is low voltage or broken phase (three-phase motor). These conditions also cause the motor not to rotate, or the speed is low (easy to block), so it should be measured with a universal meter.Three: you can smell there is no burning flavor, may be motor winding interphase short-circuit. Bearings should be hard to break, and it's probably not good to find repairs.If the capacitor is replaced, it is better to choose the same capacitor as the original configuration parameter. If the capacitor is damaged and does not know or can not see the mark parameter, it can be calculated and matched according to the following formula:In C=8JS (F), the capacitance of the C- is S- (F). The current density of the starting winding of J- motor is generally selected from 5 to 7A/ (mm) 2, and the cross section area (mm2) of the starting winding winding. Generally, you can choose 1000W/40 F.

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