• ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump System 1
  • ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump System 2
  • ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump System 3
ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

Ref Price:
$150.00 - 200.00 / set get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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                        ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

1.Structure of ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump Description

End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.

End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.

2.Main Features of the ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

very easy to be installed and maintained

•Driven through flexible coupling

Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system

3.ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water PumpSpecification

 

Design

Performance and dimensions referring to BS EN733/DIN24255

Structure

Horizontal,Axial,End-Sution,Single-Stage,Single-Sution,Volute,Casing,Back,Pull-out, Centrifugal Pump

Flange

DIN2501(ISO7005.2/GB/T17241.6 PN1.6)Standard, ANSI B16.5 Class150lb optional)

Rotation

Clockwise viewing from the drive side

 

Casing

Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Impeller

Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional

Shaft

ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional

Shaft Seal

Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional

 

Flow rate

2-1100m3/h

Head

2-152m

Speed

1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz)

Working Pressure

1.6PMa or 2.0PMa

 

4.Picture of ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump

ISO Standard Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump 

5.FAQ

What is your product range?

Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage

pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe

water pump, boiler water pump, etc.

 

 

Q:I have a 1985 Jaguar XJ6 that runs great, that I was thinking about trading for a 1991 Alfa Romeo 164 that needs a water pump. Just wanted to get feedback from Alfa owners and find out how hard it would be to put a water pump in the car. Thanks
About $130.00 for the water pump (first link below). As for the difficulty, take a look at the second link for a good thread on replacing the water pump on the 164.
Q:its a honda accord 1991 Lx my car started overheating only when i stop when i go it doesnt overheat what should i check like the water pump
chances are your radiator cooling fan is not working,could be the cooling fan switch,bad fan motor,or relay
Q:I've bleed the lines, and gotten rid of all the air bubbles. I've replaced the thermostat correctly, (triple checked) and I don't think it's the water pump because it isn't leaking what so ever. My temperature gauge is not moving what so ever, and the coolant reservoir over flows heavily, and I can hear a thumping sound in the radiator.
Its gonna' take some doin' === Drain the radiator..remove the thermostat..fill the radiator with water and radiator flush chemical..run the motor..until hot..either with the Radiator Cap--ON or OFF.. If you left the radiator cap installed..the engine will need to cool down--to remove it.. Flushing your motor with the radiator cap removed offers time savings.. === Yet..the radiator might over-flow during the flushing. cedure.. === Stand away from the car..and be ready to turn off the motor.. ..safely drain all the flushed material..refill with fresh water and drain out(no need to start thre motor).. === Now..look at your thermostat..does it have a tiny little hole in the flange area.. The flange is the flat portion that supports the opening and allows a place to seal the gasket--there should be a tiny bleeder hole..that's not in the gasket portion.. It allows some coolant to flow--freely.. I once bought a thermostat that was missing the bleeder hole.. I used a tiny drill to replace that item..tiny hole like THIN Spagetti/..so fluid can escape thru thre system.. === With that in mind--get the system back together..check for leaks..//[end]
Q:Would a bad water pump make a whinning sound when the engine is reved.....ive checked everything off as to why my car is running so hot and im down to the water pump.....ive put a New thermostat....no leaks anywhere.....no oil in coolant....no coolant in water.....no white smoke.....Fans do turn on.....new colant and i bleed the air out.....but the engine is still running really hot....my car calls for about 13 quarts of coolant but upon refil it took only about 4 quarts...... .. . uld this be signs of my water pump failing.....the pump is not leaking and when i took the housing off the water pump and turn the engine the blades did rotate...but at a higher rpm with the car together i heared weird noies kinda like a whinning sound from the water pump.....1995 Oldsmobile Aurora194,000Northstar 4.0 V8
the water pump some times whine when it goes out.the radiator could be plugged.when running sqeeze the top hose to make sure its ciculating.this will let you know if its the water pump is out or not.
Q:I have a 2000 Ford Focus with 82k miles on it. The car is leaking coolant intermittently. The radiator was replaced about 3 yrs ago. The car doesn't overheat but when I turn it off I can hear a boiling sound and it smells like something is burning. It's not a strong smell but it's there. The car also idles rough and downright shakes at times. Also, and I know this sounds crazy, when I'm driving it I hear a sort of whooshing noise that sounds like water. Could this be the water pump or something more serious? I'm taking it to the mechanic tomorrow but would like an idea as to what could be wrong.
Could be thermostat, or a head gasket.
Q:Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Coolant leaks (not into the oil)*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)Ive had this problem for a while. Some times my van drives just fine and heats just fine, then some days it wants to over heat and blow cool quot;heatquot;. Adding coolant to my van used to do the trick, but now its not working. If it is my thermostat that is broke, the water/coolant would still run through the hoses right?I really think its my water pump out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump? If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
Again, see last answer to your same question. You obviously dont know what the real problem is, could be water pump and might not be. Instead of wasting over 25.00 on a water pump and that not being the problem, why dont you take it to a reputable repair facility and have the cooling system analyzed and they can tell you EXACTLY what part(s) need replacing, then go from there. Nobody can diagnose your cooling system problem over the internet since we are not at your vehicle with a coolant pressure tester and block test tool.
Q:Replaced the water pump in my 89 f150 and now I have a pretty steady leak coming out. I don't know where the leak is coming from, but its running down the lower hose and dripping off it. I've replaced the lower hose and water pump, what could be causing this?
it the valve cock closed on your radiator? The lower hose is over the barb with the hose clamp between the barb and radiator? I hope you did not crack any welds when you moved the hoses, as it is soldered and can be brittle.
Q:I was recently driving and noticed my heat gauge in the red. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 door LX. When I opened the hood what appears to be water was all over the place. Is this the water pump or something else? I want to fix it this weekend so I was hoping for a better understanding of what it might be. I am aware of the labor involved with the water pump and removing the timing belts to get to it. Thanks a bunch in advance!
could also be the thermostat. but be catious if it was in the red for too long then it might have damaged the head i would chech the thermostat first because they are more likley to have problems (plus they are cheaper)
Q:94 f150,302 engine. the water pump comes with 2 gaskets. one behind a metal plate on the pump and another for mounting it to the motor. my question is do you have to use sealant of any kind on both gaskets or can you just bolt it on?
Do not seal these gaskets with anything extra!
Q:My father in law has a 95 jeep grand cherokee with the v~8 engine, the water pump started leaking so we went to autozone and bought a brand new duralast one with new gaskets, I'm gonna be putting it in when the weather lets me since i have to do it out on the street in front of the house, i was just wondering if anyone on here had any tips for me since i have never done one, I'm not a mechanic but i work on all my own vehicles since i am too poor to take them to a shop, i know a lot more about cars than he does so he asked me to help, it didn't look to hard but i'm not quite sure what im getting myself into, any advice or tips about this job is greatly appreciated. And please don't post telling me to take it to a mechanic as this is not a option for us, i will get it done i just thought somebody could help make it go a lil smoother with some pointers... Thanks
Remove the fan blades/radiator shroud. That will give you more room and you can see better. Remove the belts and pulley from the water pump. then remove the clamps/hoses. After that it should be a simple unbolt. Be sure to clean all the old gasket off the block and use a silicone gasket sealer or the equivalent to hold the new gasket to the pump during installation. Start all bolts before tightening any of them and then tighten them carefully so that the new pump seats properly and you don't crack the new pump.

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