• Casting and Machining Hub Weight :5kg to 110 kg System 1
  • Casting and Machining Hub Weight :5kg to 110 kg System 2
  • Casting and Machining Hub Weight :5kg to 110 kg System 3
  • Casting and Machining Hub Weight :5kg to 110 kg System 4
  • Casting and Machining Hub Weight :5kg to 110 kg System 5
  • Casting and Machining Hub Weight :5kg to 110 kg System 6
Casting and Machining Hub Weight :5kg to 110 kg

Casting and Machining Hub Weight :5kg to 110 kg

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 PCS
Supply Capability:
8500 PCS/month

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OKorder is offering high quality Cast Automobile Brake Hubs at great prices with worldwide shipping. Our supplier is a world-class manufacturer of water glass lost wax investment casting and model forging both carbon steel and alloy steel, and one of the largest casting production bases in China. We have supplied more than 8000 tons of wheel hubs annually to European, North American and Asian markets. Additional OEM casting and forging services are available according to customer requirements.

 

The intended use of Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg

 

Our Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg are ideal for:

  • Automotive applications

  • Mining accessories

  • Construction machinery

  • Agricultural machinery

 

The advantage of Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg

 

Not only are OKorder's Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg of the highest quality and reliability, we are able to quickly ship orders within 20 days of receiving a deposit or original L/C. All products are shipped with ISO, SGS, BV, and CIQ certification as well as ASTM, AISI, DIN, BS and JIS standards.

 

 

Main features of Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg

  • Additional OEM casting and forging services available

  • Shipped within 20 Days

 

FAQ:

 

Q1: Why buy Materials & Equipment from OKorder.com?

A: All products offered byOKorder.com are carefully selected from China's most reliable manufacturing enterprises. Through its ISO certifications, OKorder.com adheres to the highest standards and a commitment to supply chain safety and customer satisfaction.

 

Q2: How are our Cast and Machined Hub 5kg - 110kg manufactured?

A: All of our products are lost wax castings, poured in both carbon steel and alloy steel to the highest tolerances.

 

Specifications:

 

 

Item: 4-10 Hole Brake Hub

Name: Brake Hub

Production Process: Water glass lost wax investment casting or model forging

Standard: ASTM, AISI, DIN, BS and JIS

Hub Max. Casting and Forging Size: 1m

Hub Casting Weight: 5kg - 110Kg

Hub Dimension Tolerance: CT7

Hub Surface Roughness: Ra6.4~12.5

Hub Productivity: 7500 tons per year

 

Q:iam considering buying this trailer but dont understand braking system
The brakes are controlled by either a surge actuator or a brake controller.You have to look at the tounge of the trailer.It will have one or two levers on it. If it has two,one of them will have a small chain attatched to it.This is the most simplist of brakes and does not require additional wire to engage the brake.It works on the principle of foward or reverse momentum. The actuator slides foward or back,appling pressure to a master cylinder.There are two types of master cylinders, 1 for disc and 1 for drum brakes.it works the same principle as a car hydraulic brake in that manner.The 2nd type is an electric over hydraulic which is pretyy uncommon.It uses an on-board HYDRSTAR fluid box and is electrically controlled by a microprosser.The microprosser is in-cab adjustable so you can fine tune it.It also has an acclerometer.This is a far superior unit and give you gretter flexibility!.It also works in reverse automatically with a reverse solenoid or having to insert pins.If you say it's a vacuum-hydrualic,it uses an electric vaccum pump to provide vacuum,that would otherwise come from a source off the engine of your truck.Depending on the system is going to depend on how it hooks up.The actuator type hooks up like a regular boat trailer,electrically.The other depends on if you have a tow package on your vehicle set for aux.vacuum and elect. brakes
Q:Can someone give me the procedures to gravity bleed a brake system?
Gravity Brake Bleeding
Q:Hi engineers, i am student working on air brake system of trains.I wanted to know everything related to air brake you know.If possible please suggest a good website where i can find material related to air brake system.Thanks in advance.
I haven't got time to tell you all i know about train air brakes lol.Basically a train has a brake pipe connected between each car.On a freight train they are set at 90psi.The engines maintain the pressure in the brake pipe.Each car has an air tank also which has the same pressure as the brake pipe.When an engineer sets the brakes it removes air from the brake pipe.That causes a control valve on each car to open and let air from the tank flow to a brake cylinder on the car applying the brakes.The smallest reduction you can make is 6 pounds.When the brake pipe and the tank on the car reach the same pressure the valve closes(known as equalization).If more brakes are applied the process starts again.On standard freight train air brakes once a set is made it can't be lessened.If you set too much you have to release the brakes and start over.When you release the brakes the locomotives start pumping the brake pipe back up to 90 psi.That opens the cars control valve again releasing the brake cylinder pressure and starts recharging the air tank back to 90 psi.Til the tank is fully charged again the brakes will not be as effective if another set is made.It's possible to actually deplete your air to the point where you have no brakes.We call that pissing away your air(a serious problem).There's a lot more to how they operate but that's the basics.You might try googling Westinghouse air brakes.George Westinghouse invented the system we use today.If that doesn't get you anything try Wabtec. Edit I came back to your question to see if you had got any more info.With all respect to Ken D train air brakes and truck brakes are in no way related.Train brakes are not spring operated like trucks.They function just by air pressures.You will surely get more info if your re-post your question in the rail section.There are a number of very knowledgeable people that frequent that section.But after 35 years on the railroad trust me i know what i'm talking about.
Q:What is the car's braking system?
Brake, control, means that when the accelerator pedal and the brake pedal are simultaneously depressed during normal operation
Q:I sometimes use our regular washcloths to clean our car‘s wheels with. I wash those washcloths in with our regular laundry. Is this dangerous? The reason I ask is because I think that brake dust contains asbestos, and that can cause cancer. Is that true? Should I just wash those cleaning cloths separately?
get rid of the donk wheels, thats stupid. go back to 18s or 17s, stock height. dont mess up a good car.
Q:I have replaced rotors, calipers,brake lines,brake pads and the master cylinder. What could be the problem?
usually you purely could desire to bleed the line of whichever caliper/wheel cylinder you're changing. regardless of the undeniable fact that, being that it is a 1996, i could additionally recommend doing a brake gadget flush, as you likely have on no account replaced out the brake fluid
Q:This is the situation:This is a 1995 Buick LeSabre.Previously, the master cylinder was replaced.Due to rusted brake lines, the right rear brake line was replaced, as well as both rear wheel cylinders. The shop bled the lines and thought it was finished, but then . . . no brakes.They have tried using a computer on it, rebleeding it, checking the cylinders and lines, checking the fuse to the ABS(?), but nothing seems to help. The pedal still goes to the floor. Any ideas? Please, give any thoughts on this. Yes, I can take it to a different shop or to the dealer, but would prefer to have it finished, at this place.
What kind of shop can't get brakes working on a car? I guess ABS is possible but its seems unlikely. Sounds like bad mechanics. Did they change the flex hoses as well as the brake lines? if the lines were rusted that bad then other parts are too. When you bleed are you getting good pressure?
Q:How to get into the ABC brake system
Anti-locked Braking System "Chinese translation for" anti-lock brake system ". It is a non-slip, anti-lock and other advantages of the car safety control system. ABS is a conventional brake device based on the improved technology, can be divided into mechanical and electronic two. It has both the normal braking system braking function, but also to prevent the wheel locked, so that the car can still turn in the braking state to ensure that the direction of the car's braking stability, to prevent the occurrence of side slip and deviation, On the most advanced, the best braking effect of the brake device.
Q:If I buy a new Toyota Prius now, would it have the brake problems everybody‘s so hyped about?
I purchased my 2010 Prius in October 2009 - and I have to tell you I love the car. It is easy to drive, park and handles very well. Yes, I know about the recall - but I love the ad that Toyota put out, and have already been contacted to have it fixed. I have had previous Toyotas as well as Subaru and Volkswagon - the Prius is by far my favorite car. I love the nice interior, as well as the fact that I can drive so many miles without a fill-up. My dealer gave me a fair price for my trade-in and we moved forward. Sorry, but I haven't seen the quality of an American car that measures up to a Toyota - and I have owned them. They seem to give up the ghost at about 100,000 miles and you can get twice the mileage on Japanese cars. However, I must say that the Volkswagon Bug that I purchased in 2000 was my biggest disappointment - the engine started to eat itself after about 70,000 miles. That is another story sorry to bore you. Enjoy the Prius and ignore the ugly comments that others have made - it is a great car!
Q:also found no fluid in the abs motor
I am a mechanic and I have a 2003 Durango.transmission servicing is the most over looked part of preventive maintnance.so good deal changing it.it is really not that difficult.I usually remove all of my pan bolts except the four corner ones,,then with pan in place to catch fluid start loosening two on each end at a time to allow pan to start draing gradually then with two bolts remaining in one end pan is now leaning slightly to allow most of the fluid to drain before removing final bolts,as pan is easier to handle with less fluid in it,then filter is easily removed and about a pint more fluid runs out when you pull filter down(did I mention this can get messy,trans fluid will drip from valve body the entire time!) there is a collector magnet in bottom of pan as you clean the pan be sure and clean off magnet and leave in pan, usually carb cleaner works good to remove graphite and fluid.some have reusable pan gasket and it will say it on pan bottom,if not remove old gasket and make sure both surfaces are cleaninstall new filter.align gasket to pan to make sure all holes lign up then a thin adhesive caot on pan to hold gasket in place(emblem adhesive works best)and start replacing pan bolts,by hand till all in then just snug them up with ratchet carefull not to over tighten.make sure you use the required fluid for yours,,,should be dex-4.and it takes almost 5 quarts to refill trans.run engine enough to get accurite reading and check fluid twice to be certain is full

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