• Vermiculite Fire Resistant Board Vermiculite fireproof board System 1
  • Vermiculite Fire Resistant Board Vermiculite fireproof board System 2
  • Vermiculite Fire Resistant Board Vermiculite fireproof board System 3
Vermiculite Fire Resistant Board Vermiculite fireproof board

Vermiculite Fire Resistant Board Vermiculite fireproof board

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 pc
Supply Capability:
200000 pc/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:In pallet for shipment or in carton box.OR customized Vermiculite Fire Resistant Board Vermiculite fireproof board
Delivery Detail:15 DAYS AFTER 30% DEPOSIT

Specifications

1.Vermiculite Fire Resistant Board Vermiculite fireproof board 
2.Eco-friendly 
3.Easy to cut and install 
4.Fireproof

Vermiculite Fire Resistant Board Vermiculite fireproof board

 


Specifications

fine fire insulation vermiculite board

size:various sizes

properties: heat-resistant,water-proofing

usage:widely use

 

Fine fire insulation vermiculite board

 

 

How to manufacture vermiculite board?

Vermiculite board is a kind of boards that manufactured by expanded vermiculite and a certain amout of adhensives by hot-pressing or cold pressing.

 

What is vermiculite board?

Vermiculite board is a kind of new inorganic material. The main raw material is vermiculite and some adhensives.

 

Application:

building roof insulation (weathering course)

low roof feather weight sunken filling

Building roof and wall crack free plastering protect concrete roof from thermal shocks and cracks.

vibration absorbent

water leakage arrester

bio fertilizer for plants and terrace gardening

 

 

Vermiculit board sizes

common size: 2400*1200*15-60mm

Largest size: 2500*1220*100

density: 400-600KG/ M3

We can manufacture the vermiculite board referance to customers' request

 


Q: Ok I‘ve had my dragon for a year now and decided I wanted a mate for him, it‘s about time and I‘m ready for another one, they are so great huh hehe?! Ok so anyway I‘m starting to worry alot and might not get it cause I‘m afraid of the female laying eggs, people make it sound so hard and scary. What would I do with the eggs, would I let her lay them in dirt or take her out, do I leave the eggs where she lays them, will they hatch that way, oh my so many questions. I don‘t want to read it all from a site cause those people make it sounds hard and crazy to do, so have any of you guys hatched any eggs?
I haven't hatched any eggs (we were going to mate, but our female we bought ended up being a male). From what I've read though you will definitely need an incubator. Lay a pan of vermiculite in the cage with her when the eggs start showing through her belly, and she starts digging around in her cage. When you remove the eggs to put them in the incubator do not turn them or roll them, because that can kill the babies, and make sure that whatever incubator you get doesn't automatically roll the eggs. I would do some more reading first though. Be really carefully when they're mating too. I've heard that it can get pretty aggressive, but like I said I've never mated beardies, I've just done some reading. I would definitely study up first though, and be ready for a bunch of babies, I've heard they can sometimes have up to two dozen eggs. Good luck though. I would think it's a lot of work, but well worth it.
Q: I need to add sulfur, zinc, calcium, and phosphourus according to my soil sample.Other than that my PH is perfect.I am in zone 7 and have clumpy clay soil that is getting better since I added a lot of leaf compost to it.I am considering Gypsum (heard it works, then again heard it‘s not effective on heavy clay soils)Rock Phosphate (heard it can contain heavy metals)Super Phosphate (heard it wasn‘t considered organic)Bone Meal (seems to be ok, yet it‘s an animal product)Pearlite/VermiculiteOr just maybe garden tone or something like that.18 minutes ago - 4 days left to answer. Additional DetailsI am growing vegetables and I don‘t know if my soil is sodic because they didn‘t provide the salt reading on my 20 dollar soil test!
Focus on breaking up the clay into fine pieces and mixing in lots of compost, also some perlite if you have it. Might need to rent equipment to break up the soil.
Q: I am using a good lunch bag with the silver Thermos around it for insulation then a tuba where filled with vermiculite And i added some water (moist) and i keep it by the heat lamp but not directly under it and i keep close watch on the Temperature around 85 and the eggs are just covered enough the see parts of them
sounds good but you should keep te temp a little lower in my experience it works best around 83 there are very sensitize so don't think 2* doesn't matter it dose
Q: This insulation is in the attic and was added by the previousowner as a DIY I am selling my house now and wonder howmuch it costs to remove it from a 1500sqft house attic. If I shouldinclude it in the offer?
Rock wool.
Q: My female just laid this afternoon and I moved the eggs into a make-shift incubator. I don't have any vermiculite or whatever it is they use to help keep humidity up. They are in a hide box and the box has holes cut into the roof for air flow, there's many holes, but they're a knifes width apart, very slender. They are on sterile sand surrounded by moss inside of the hide box. I marked the tops so I know which way is up. I know you have to keep the humidity up...but how do you know? Since I transported them into the incubator this afternoon (around 5?), I have sprayed the entire tank they're in with a garden mister twice. Is that too much? Too little? How do I know if the eggs need more humidity or less??? Please help...Should I go and find vermiculite? Is it crucial? Any other ideas on a better incubator. The cage they're in is glass and it's 5 gallons.
Well, for sure not in the Languages category of Yahoo! Answers.
Q: Is it like mulch and soil?
These okorder
Q: you put 25 grams of iron powder and 1 gram of salt in a resaelable plestic bag, and add 30 grams of vermiculite to the bag, seal the bag, shake it to mix the contents, then add 5 Ml of water to it and mix the contents again. what happens?????
nothing, the salt water will NOT react with iron, however the rion will just replace a few of the ions of the mineral and still probally nothing will happen
Q: When i was a freshman in college we used to play volleyball in our room knocking the cottage cheese asbestos off of the ceiling. Sometimes the floor would be littered with it. Unfortunately at the time i did not know this was asbestos. We used to do this maybe 3 times a week or so. Id say about half the time our room was ventilated with windows open. I was in this room for 7 months.So im wondering how concerned should i be about getting lung cancer or Mesothamlimia. Ive read a bunch over the last week that you can get mesothalimia(sry spelling may be wrong) from 1-3 months exposure but theres not figures on how likely you are to get it. Does anyone have any thoughts on my chances of getting Mesothalimia or lung cancer? Thanks
youll be fine, it takes years of working around it everyday for you to have a problem
Q: I have a Kohleria plant and a C. Lindenia (two tropical plants not normally found in nurseries; both are related to each other; found them at a plant show) I found metal pieces/flakes in the soil that I do not think were there when I first got them. I watered them yesterday and they both smell like iron/metal. The water that ran through them is yellowish in color. Is my plant making its own metal?
vermiculite is indeed a very good insulation,years ago it was used for texture,to spray on ceilings as insulation as alternative for asbestos if you can find a way to CONTAIN it should work yery well
Q: i am pretty sure one or both of our leos are pregnant and we do have a male, so i need to make a laying box, what substarte- other then soil or vermiclulite can i use? thanks also where can i get it?( i am soo excited)!
Damp sand and coir, rehydrated coconut husk. 100% perlite is definitely too coarse, and won't retain enough water for rooting. If you have perlite and vermiculite on hand, use them, but I've always found a 50-50 mixture of damp, coarse sand and rehydrated coir to be the best rooting medium.

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