• Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose (HPMC) for Tile adhesive-A System 1
Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose (HPMC) for Tile adhesive-A

Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose (HPMC) for Tile adhesive-A

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Product introduction

Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose (HPMC) is non-ionic cellulose ether, made by natural high polymer cellulose as raw material and series of chemical processing. They provide water retention and cohesiveness to mixtures. With special modification, it can be used to control thickening, water demand, workability, sag resistance, strength and other important properties of the final product.

It is widely used as thickener, adhesive, water preserving agent, film-foaming agent in building materials, industrial coatings, synthetic resin, ceramic industry, medicine, food, textile, agricultural, cosmetic and other industries.

Physical and chemical index

ITEM

CAS: 9004-65-3

INDEX

60SS-E

65SS-F

75SS-K

Hydroxypropyl                %

7.0-12.0

4.0-7.5

4.0-12.0

Methoxyl                    %

28.0-32.0

27.0-32.0

19.0-24.0

Gel temperature              

58-64

62-68

70-90

Moisture                     %

≤5.0

Ash content                  %

≤1.0

Viscosity                 mpa.s

100-200000

Lighttransmittance            %

≥70

Whiteness                   %

≥75

Bulk density                g /l

370---420

Appearance

white or off-white fibrous or granular powder, odorless, tasteless

Package:

25kg/package. Use polyethylene film cardboard or plastic polypropylene woven bag package.  

Tile adhesive

Tile cement mortar is used to attach tiles on concrete or block walls. It comprises cement, sand, limestone, HPMC and various additives, ready to be mixed with water before use.

Advantage: HPMC plays an important role in improving water retention, workability, and sag resistance.

Recommend grades: HPMC 75SS-K (100000mpa.s-200000mpa.s)

Q: give you a significant increase on mpg. . have you or anyone you know tried these, and if so were the results good
So far none are proven to really work. Also consider the cost of the additives. Some cost $5-10 per tank and if it only saves you 10% or less, it's just not cost effective. Stick to things that are proven to work: change how you drive, combine trips/carpool, check tire pressure, tune up an older car regularly,etc
Q: what would you suggest adding to a FO, FOWLR and a Reef tank as far as like Purple Up or is something like a simple all in one trace elements additive good enough? my Reef really does not have any coral in it, i just have a ton of live rock and those horrible EVIL nuisance anemones (that I like lol, so I leave them alone) and I do not plan on killing them (apastatia I believe). But is a basic trace element additive good enough for all three, or what are your suggestions?
In that small of a tank, regulate with water changes. It doesn't take much and will keep everything balanced. You will not have enough livestock in there or coraline algae to deplete your calcium to the extent that you need to self dose. Of course it really does depend on your levels. You should test before dosing ANYTHING to make sure it needs it as there is a balance to the water chemistry and too much of one element may deplete or prevent the increase of another element and really mess things up. Also, what elements depends on what corals. Xenia will want more iodine and be less reliant on calcium than an acropora for example. Use a nice sand that will help buffer the tank and keep the calcium up (like crushed coral or similar composition substrate) anad reef based salts, like Reef Crystals will keep things at the levels you need.
Q: I don't know if I have a limited slip differential or not, so I was hoping I could put in the additive in either case?2003 Ford Explorer XLT V8 4X4.
Additive won't hurt, but withouttraction-loc" (Chevy's haveposi" rears) it's just pointless. Look for the metal tag hanging off one of the bolts at the center of the rear differential. It has codes on a first line. The second stamped line will have your axle ratio and whether it is traction-loc or not. A regular rear will have like3 .55" or3 .73" for a 355 ratio or a 373 . The first3" is usually partially pinned under the bolt that holds the tag on. If you have traction-loc, you will see something like3 L .55" or3 L.73". TheL" in the middle stands for traction-Loc. Following the ratio numbers will be an 8.8, indicating the differential has an 8.8 inch ring gear. There is also a tag on the front differential if the rear is unreadable or missing. It gives much the same information but not traction-loc, which is only indicated and used or rear differentials. The only useful info on the front tag is the ratio, which is a match for the rear.
Q: I know what an additive inverse is,(5,-5 2,-2) but what I dont get is why its called the additive inverse. If you take a number like -5 then shouldnt the additive inverse be correctly called 10 to get 5? because its the add-itive inverse(opposite).
In addition, 0 is theadditive identity" in the sense that N+ additive inverse = N Partly this comes from the idea that themultiplicative identity" is 1 since 1*N = N*1 = N The multiplicative inverse of n/m is m/n since n/m * m/n is the multiplicative identity. As you learn more math, you will see these ideas generalize to matrices and groups, so it is perhaps unfair to expect that it makes sense right now. Theadditive inverse" has the property that when you add it to a number, you get theadditive identity"
Q: What are the primary and secondary additive and subtractive colours?
Additive: Red, Green, Blue (you add them to black to make a full range of colors) Subtractive: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow (you subtract them from white to make a full range of colors, except for black. Your printer is going to need a cartridge of black ink too)
Q: find the number?!
Let x be the number for which you are looking. The additive inverse is -x. The reciprocal is (1 / x) (-x / 12) 3 * (1/x) - 1 Multiply both sides of this equation by the least common denominator which is 12x, getting:: -x^2 12 * (3) - 12x Since, when I'm factoring. I like the x^2 term to be positive, multiply both sides by (-1), getting: x^2 12x - 36Subtract 12x - 36 from both sides x^2 - 12x - (-36) 0 x^2 - 12x + 36 0 (x - 6)^2 0 6Answer Note: In the rush of a test it's better to factor nice quadratic equations than to deal with the quadratic formula. Just make sure everything is on the left hand side of the equation and that the x^2 term is positive before you factor. Checking: -6/12 ? (3 / (6)) - 1 -1/2 ? (1/2) - 1 -1/2 ? -1/2.Yes it does so the answer is correct. .
Q: I have an 01‘ BMW 330i which requires premium gas with a minimum of 91 octane. I‘ve also seen some fuel additives which clean out the engine of gunk and claim to do wonders for the car. Also, a little more kick out of a clean engine can be provided by the octane. Would this be a good idea.The car is almost 10 years old, and even though I‘ve always used premium gas, I‘m sure that some buildup in the engine has to have occurred. Would this be ideal or is it merely a quick fix?Also, I‘m considering some permanent alterations. Nothing too expensive but a good cost benefit change like a kn air filter or something a bit more extensive. Any ideas or suggestions or where to start?
The additives, as others have said, have a limited effectiveness. I run Lukas Oil's Fuel System Cleaner through my car every 6 months. It's a cheap insurance policy and I've seen the value of many other Lukas Oil products. Many higher mileage car owners have Sea Foam'd their cars. This really does clean the valves and burns out most all impurities on the cylinder walls. Sea Foam has it's downsides as well. Your O2 sensors may need to be replaced and your spark plugs most definitely will need replacement. It is strongly recommended to run the premium fuel, as you do, and to change the oil regularly(3-5k). Keep up with the maintenance schedules and you should have your car for a good long time. Just keep in mind that premium fuel in most the US is only 91 while fuel around the rest of the world is commonly 93.
Q: I need it for my venus fly traps!!!!
It is often easier to combine items than it is to separate items. The best approach is to buy the correct product the first time. Don't waste your time trying to remove fertilizer from perlite. I have never seen horticultural perlite sold with any additives. Usually, it is something else with perlite added. If you have managed to obtain a perlite with fertilizer product, it can be used for other things --- just not carnivorous plants. You can create a good mix by combining equal parts of peat moss, very fine pine bark (sometimes sold as soil conditioner --- read the label), and horticultural perlite. Most orchids and carnivorous plants like to be moist but not wet. Excellent drainage is essential.
Q: Urgent feed additive tax exempt provisions!
Looking for all the VAT policy on feed additives since 1994, there is no separate tax on the feed additive, and you can find it carefully at the State Administration of Taxation Taxation Management System (reference address).
Q: This may have been asked once before, but I‘m asking specifically:Does anyone have any first hand experience with 100% pure acetone as a fuel additive?What are the results?How long have you been using it?Are there any negative side effects?Please do not cite or refer to other websites; I have done my fair share of research and am looking for an opinion from someone who has been using 100% pure acetone. Thank you.
If by 100% acetone you mean, using a small amount of 100% acetone in the fuel as additive then. the only thing noticeable is that lower end torque improved due to better atomization caused by the acetone. other than that no fuel saving to report. My truck damaged 2 Fuel injectors, IDK if it had anything to do with the acetone, the moth balls I dumped in the fuel tank(don't do it) or if it was coincidence. The engine computer(ECU) is programmed to keep the air to fuel ratio as close to 14.7:1 as possible. this is for emission purposes only. that is not the best performance ratio of efficiency you will get out of your car. anything you do will be picked up by the ECU, and it will recalibrate itself to keep that A/F ratio untouched. if you get greedy and throw any of the sensors reading too far out of tolerance then the ECU will turn the check engine light and will begin to run rich as a default programing in the ECU. there are subtle things you can do to improve fuel efficiency. unless you reflash/ remap(chipped) your ECU for fuel efficiency you are limited to small gains if any unless you start making weight reduction, regearing of the transmission and differential or aerodynamic enhancements to the vehicles body. GL

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