HUINENG ZHIZUN Series Biomass Boiler

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Introduction:

China's first disc cyclone biomass boiler Brand: HUINENG ZHIZUN

Applied fuel: Biomass and wood pellets (including few coking pellets)

Technical description:

1. Base on the 2012 patent cyclone combustion technology, we develop disc cyclone further combustion technology, which increase the temperature in the hearth to accelerate the process of pyrolysis gasification and makes more complete combustion. The heat transferring system prevent the tar attachment and tube block.The heat efficiency of boiler won't decrease after long-time use.

2. Natural anti-back fire design for feeding system

3. Variable frequency speed control system makes feeding system more stable.

4. The adoption of high-efficiency energy-saving tube makes heat efficiency of our boiler exceed national requirement.

5. Full-time cyclone technology prolongs the maintenance cycle.

6. Monitor system for bunkers, it will warn clients when there is no fuels. One-button control system makes automatic running and safe operation

7. Bevel design of bunkers reduces the feeding height greatly, makes fuel feeding easily, also enlarge the capacity.

8. Zincification-and-galvanize for appearance makes boiler exquisite and durable.

9. Internal equipped with dust catcher technology, which makes more environmental-protection emission, less than natural gas emission.

Product specification: cover from 10*104Kcal~180*104Kcal ( part of specifications for reference)

Item		Unit	CLHS0.12	CHLS0.24	CLHS0.35	CHLS0.48	CLHS0.60	CLHS0.73
Rated head		Kcal	10*104	20*104	30*104	40*104	50*104	60*104
Rated discharge pressure		Mpa	0（Normal pressure）
Rated temperature of output water		℃	85
Rated temperature of return water		℃	60
Heat efficiency		%	92
Water inlet		MM	40	50	50	65	65	80
Water outlet		MM	40	50	50	65	65	80
Drain hole		MM	40	50	50	65	65	80
Smoke vent		MM	40	50	50	65	65	80
Electricity		KW	1.3	1.8	2.2	2.6	3.2	3.8
Size	length	MM	1930	2230	2438	2770	3020	3110
	width	MM	610	810	910	1010	1130	1270
	heigth	MM	1760	1960	1960	1960	1960	1960

Q: its located in the basement and is a bout 4.5 feet high and relatively wide and is too heavy to even hand-truck it up the stairs. I am looking for options - thanks: Cast iron will break if you hit it with a sledge hammer, take an old blanket and put over it to keep sharp pieces from flying and hitting something or someone and go to town on it. Take the scape back and get some beer money.

Q: boiler installed in the attic, should there be some water in the pan that's under the boiler?: I've never seen a boiler in an attic. However I've installed many furnace/ AC air handlers in attics. In that application, yes you need an extra pan under the the air handler (only if AC is used). The air handler has it's own built in pan, but you you want an auxiliary pan under that in case the main main ever fails. We would run that pipe to the soffit outside. That way if you see water coming out of there, you know your main pan is clogged or faulty. If you have no problems you should never see any water there. This will prevent any ceiling damage in the event of a leak.

Q: I've used the same boiler for about almost a year now but the part where heats the water (at the bottom, looks like coiled metal) has this weird crust crusted around it...it seems like if i boiled more water, i could get cancer from this.....: Yea your heating element is covered with calicium or lime or some other hard water mineral. Either replace the element or try and clean the one you have now. YOU WONT GET CANCER FROM IT. Its just had water deposits. They occur in water heaters and boilers. This is a very common problem.

Q: I'm gutting my house and getting rid of my circa 1973 furnace and am planning on installing a wood boiler to just completely get rid of LP, but I can't find any information on putting in floor heat in, and thermostats for in floor heating. Does anyone have any experience with this, or know where I can find the right information? I'm also not opposed to a throwback and putting radiators in, but once again, I can't seem to find it. Also, does anyone have a rough guess of the total cost, or know where I can go to piece the costs together? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks you.: Even if these sites are not what you are looking for they can help you to find what you need if you contact them.

Q: Please excuse my ignorence, but I know nothing about boilers and I hope someone can give me some indication of what could be wrong with my boiler.I have an old Halstead boiler (gas combi) which has given us some trouble with lockouts before, but after reset it has always been okay. Today our hot water has stopped working altogether, but the central heating still works. There is no red lights showing and we have tried switching it off and on, and resetting it. From this brief description, can anyone have a guess was is wrong and how much it might cost to get fixed, or even better... suggest a way we can get our hot water to work?Thanks in advance.: Firstly I don't think you have a combi boiler (I apologise if wrong). Combis supply hot water on demand straight to a hot water tap without storing it in a hot water cylinder. The incoming cold water mains provides the flow as opposed to a pump. The pump is to circulate the hot water around the radiators. But no matter, you have a three way valve which reacts to the demands of a room stat and a cylinder stat. The fault is somewhere in the HW electrical circuit including the three way valve. You could check that the HW cylinder stat is clicking on and off. Apart from that it would be quicker and maybe cheaper in the long run to get a heating engineer to check it out. Plumbers are good at plumbing (usually) but not as competant as heating engineers as the latter have to know all about CH electrics. I would ask British Gas Services to fix it, and sign up for maintenance. All boilers break down, but BGS will attend 24/7.

Q: I am in the process of purchasing a home. I fell in love with an old farm house in my area and am thinking about placing a bid for it. It has a Boiler system for heating the house. My questions for anyone who has experience with them in their homes are;1. Is it very hard to maintain?2. Is it alot more expensive to run it in the winter?3. What are the cons of having one?I asked my realtor, but he isn't too familiar with them, and I can't seem to find out any real pros or cons on the internet searches.Thanks in advance.: 1. They're easy to maintain: just be sure it has enough water. 2. More expensive than what? Spending $10,000 or $15,000 to replace it with something else will take a very long time to break even. 3. The radiators can't be moved around like furniture. :-) Resist the urge to drain and refill the water in the system. It will look dark and gunky and seem to scream Change me! If you do, there will be a year or two of hissing, gurgles, and growls until the mineral balance between the pipes and the water reaches equilibrium again—at which time it will be murky and gunky. Except the pipes will have lost more material.

Q: What are the main differences between water pipe boilers and fire pipe boilers?: Water pipe and fire tube is the medium of the tube to define the different, the water pipe is inside the pipe, through the external flue gas convection / radiation heat pipe heating water, fire pipe is inside the pipe smoke, so that the smoke heating

Q: When we turn on our combi boiler, some of our radiators go on as well. When we have the 'summer' setting on (hot water only), the boiler won't light at all. Does this need fixing or is there something we've missed?: As per your other question you have not mentioned the make or model of boiler and different boilers operate in different ways. Normally the boiler on water only will only fire up when you turn on a tap(see your other question for preheat) and if it is not doing so then there is a problem with the boiler. It is impossible to give a definitive reason what without the required make model of boiler due to the differing operating systems between different makes and models.

Q: What units are boilers?: The use of boilers is very wide, the species also mix, vary widely:

Q: My parents had a newer boiler than mine. When they had a gas valve replaced, it cost nearly $500. I called a different HVAC company and they said that it was about right. I am trying assess the wisdom of buying a new boiler. I have an old Maclean-Weil (hope that's right) about 40 years old for a split level home about 1800 square feet plus sub-basement.: Yes, more parts and some are electronic which are pricey. Gas valves are pricey but that sounds a bit high to me by at least $100 for only a valve. Maybe that included a servicing too. Generally I doubt the higher efficiency for a gas boiler will pay off all that much. I usually tend towards saying if it is working then leave it. If it was much older than your 40 years it might be worth it. I would guess you are closer to 80% efficient at that age, that generation of units. Older ones can be 60%-65%. To get to 90+ they add a lot of stuff that cost more, like a draft inducer fans and sensors for it and intermittent ignition. They do require more service. Then you only gain like 10% or 15% max. for the investment. But payoff time is directly proportional to the cost of the gas. Unless you intend to stay in the house for many many years it probably won't pay off. And investing the money from the purchase cost would generate enough income to cover the cost of the slightly lower efficiency, imo. Good Luck.

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