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I just asked a question about my 2006 trailblazer with 48,000 miles. The service engine light does not come on when I turn the key over, neither does the seat belt light. What worries me is that I see a scuff in the dash where the screw is to remove the dash. The car hasn't given me trouble and I took it to chevrolet to have a work up done on it, and it was hooked up to a computer and no warnings came up, but WHY would that light not work? I am guessing somebody has probably tampered with it, and trying to screw me over, but its actually been a marvelous car so far. Chevrolet told me that the light is tamper proof, but I don't see how. Couldn't they just pull it out, or color it with a marker or something? I hate having the wool pulled over my eyes and it pisses me off to think someone would do that.
should come on with key in the on position/have it plugged into obd and check/also go out and while its running take off the electric conn to air flow meter/that should lite it immediately
considering this car for a project btw i'd do ALL the work i mean parts
Basics are: Remove fuses and relays one at a time to find circuit that is draining the battery. Refer to your vehicle owner's manual or a wiring diagram to identify the fuses and relays. Then pull the fuses and relays one at a time until the current reading drops. Avoid pulling the fuses for the PCM or other KAM-sensitive modules until you have checked all of the other circuits. Once you've found the circuit that is causing the excessive current drain, check the relay, switch, module or other components in the circuit and replace as needed. Sometimes a bad alternator diode can cause a battery to run down. A good diode should only pass current in one direction. If it leaks current in the opposite direction, it may keep the charging circuit on when the engine is not running, causing the battery to run down Causes of excessive current drain in late model vehicles include things like lights that remain on (trunk and hood lights, interior lights, brake lights, etc.) and also relays that may be stuck on, or modules that are not going to sleep or powering down. A fuel pump relay that sticks on may keep the fuel pump running after the engine is shut off. A switch or relay that powers a rear window defogger can stick on, pulling current from the battery after the ignition is off. An electronic suspension module, ABS module or keyless entry module may remain active long after it should have powered down.
I got infinity kappa 6.5 Components and infinity 6x9 kappa both are 2 ohm speakers, dual 7 inch touch screen tv radio has a 15 amp fuse, mtx jack hammer 4 channel amp which is rated at 400 watts rms x 4 @ 2 ohms birth sheet states 480 rms @ 2 ohms x 4, 800 max birth sheet states 895 max @ 2 ohms x 4 and has 2 35 amp fuse, and rockford fosgate tweeters ran of the radio 22 rms. just bought a die hard platinum battery and upgraded my ground and power cables under the hood with 4 awg cable. two 4 awg cables to the alternator and 2 to the ground and engine block one to the fuse box all 4 awg. my lights dim as the bass hits in idle should i get a capacitor or high output alternator?????????
Not familiar with that brand of battery but deffo go with the alternator, capacitors are little bit of a gimmick in my opinion. they do help to an extent they prevent surges of power being taken from the battery on each note but if your alternator cant keep up the battery it going to get drained and have a shorter life anyway
Hey guys thanks for looking, ok basically i bought a pug 306 td the other day but the guy i bought it off went to jump start it as is had a flat battery after standing for 2 months, he connected the terminals wrong on the jump leads, which he thinks blew the aalternatorand the batterie, i however think that the batterie will be fried but surely there will be a fuse somewhere to stop the aalternatorand all the other electrics being fried?? do you think i am right? and if i am right do you know where and how big that fuse is?Thanks people 10points for best answer!
Hubby did that to my car and it fried the ecmthe brain box computer.
i have replaced this fuse 10x in one day. keeps blowing. it controls the pw mirrors,pw,pwr locks,heated seats, and i think the dashboard lights and radio illumination. they are also not working. does anyone out there know what the prob could be. im hopoing its something simple and i can avoid going to an auto electirc shop and get taken for diagnostics and labor. your help is greatly needed and appreciated. thanks
You have a short somewhere between the head light switch and the balast for the head lamps. One way to diagnose this cheaply is to start with a bunch of fuses and start unplugging everything one at a time from the headlights back to the switch and see if it still blows a fuse. Whenever you unplug a connector and it does not blow a fuse, the short will be between the last two things you unplugged. I hope this helps.
I just purchased an corsair 750W power supply, and the input is mentioned as 90-264V 10A, Now on the plug that connects to wall socket to power it says 13A 250V (UK Pin) Now i am using it in asia, using an simple adapter but inorder to plug other things like speakers and screen i am buying an surge protector (spike guard).Now at what Amp shall i buy spike guard ? Rated 15A or 10A - As this is what available in my country. PS: The fuse power on the inbuilt fuse on the power plug is 13A. Also inform if i buy a 15A Spike guard and the usage say is only 10A is their a con like, smoking the pc components incase of sum overcurrent?
It is always ok if you have more Amps then needed. If you go under of what the devices needs then it will simply burn.
I was recently mudding and was stuck for quite a bit of time in mud up to my foot brake. When I went in my electric start odometer ect all worked. It even worked for a while in the mud then suddenly quit. I pulled it out and it will pull start and run fine but the 4x4 and all electrical components seems dead. I've checked the battery and it's good. I'm assuming it's a fuse or short ? But idk where to start. Thanks for all your help. Quick recap runs fine pull starts first pull but absolutely nothing electrical is working 4x4 selector lights starter nothing.
Push up on the switch on the left handle bar. It is also the kill switch if you move it left or right. When it is in the center position it will push up as well to start the engine.
I was looking at a couple of sets of component systems here is my list and if you can give your advice on which one to look more into and which ones arent anygood and if you have any experience with any of these companies speakers? ThanksBlaupunkt pccb650PowerBass s-6cPhoenix Gold Ryval V65Crunch Maxxsonics GTS6.5c
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