WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump System 1

WQ(D) -ST Stainless Steel Motor Housing Sewage Submersible Pump

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Application:
Buildings, hospitals, residence, municipal works, traffic construction, factories, cultivation, pharmacy, beverage, seawater, saltwater, long fiber sewage, etc.

Service Conditions:
1,Max. immersion depth:5m.
2,Max. liquid temperature: +60°C.
3,PH: 304(4-10), 316(2-13).

Product Introduction:
1. WQ(D)-S stainless steel casting sewage submersible pumps use impeller structure of single or double channel, which improves sewage discharge capacity. It can discharge fibers which are five times larger than the pump caliber and solid particles which are as large as 50% of the outlet caliber.
2. It uses VITON double mechanical seal, radial "O" ring, which perfects seal function of the pump.
3. With precision casting casing, it is corrosion-resistant, energy-saving, light, beautiful, easy to maintain, free from the pump room and able to serve as soon as put into water. Therefore, it can reduce the construction cost.
4. Please install overheating and over-current protector to avoid the motor overloading.
5. For high-temperature liquid, corrosion resistant cable, TEFLON mechanical seal can be choosed.

Performance Data:

MODEL	RATED Q(m3/h)	RATED H(m)	RATED POWER (kW)	VOLTAGE (V)	OUTLET DIA. (mm)	G.W. (kg)	PACKAGE DIMENSION (cm3)
WQD10-10-0.75ST	10	10	0.75	220	50	29.5	60×26×23
WQD15-10-1.1ST	15	10	1.1	220	50	30.5	60×26×23
WQD15-12-1.5ST	15	12	1.5	220	50	31.7	60×26×24
WQ10-10-0.75ST	10	10	0.75	380	50	28.4	60×26×23
WQ15-10-1.1ST	15	10	1.5	380	50	29.5	60×26×23
WQ15-12-1.5ST	15	12	1.5	380	50	31.1	60×26×24
WQ15-20-2.2ST	15	20	2.2	380	50	41.4	66×29×32
WQ25-15-2.2ST	25	15	2.2	380	65	41.4	63×30×24
WQ40-9-2.2ST	40	9	2.2	380	80	43.8	63×29×24.5
WQ50-7-2.2ST	50	7	2.2	380	100	49.2	64.5×33×29.5
WQ15-25-3ST	15	25	3	380	50	46	70×30×25.5
WQ25-20-3ST	25	20	3	380	65	47.2	66×28×32
WQ40-15-3ST	40	15	3	380	80	48.6	70×30×25.5
WQ50-10-3ST	50	10	3	380	100	53.9	70×32×27
WQ15-32-4ST	15	32	4	380	50	50.6	70×30×25
WQ25-25-4ST	25	25	4	380	65	51.5	70×32×28
WQ40-18-4ST	40	18	4	380	80	51.8	70×30×25
WQ50-15-4ST	50	15	4	380	100	57.5	70×28×34
WQ20-32-5.5ST	20	32	5.5	380	50	74.1	82×39×33
WQ30-25-5.5ST	30	25	5.5	380	65	76.8	82×39×33
WQ50-18-5.5ST	50	18	5.5	380	80	79.1	82×39×33
WQ80-10-5.5ST	80	10	5.5	380	100	81.8	82×39×33
WQ100-7-5.5ST	100	7	5.5	380	150	93	82×39×33
WQ20-40-7.5ST	20	40	7.5	380	50	81.4	82×40×34
WQ30-32-7.5ST	30	32	7.5	380	65	83.1	82×40×34
WQ45-22-7.5ST	45	22	7.5	380	80	85.3	82×40×34
WQ80-15-7.5ST	80	15	7.5	380	100	87.2	82×40×34
WQ100-10-7.5ST	100	10	7.5	380	150	100	82×40×34
WQ140-7-7.5ST	140	7	7.5	380	150	100	82×40×34

Q:My mechanic doesn't get back in town until next week, and I'm struggling without my car. I don't really have any other options mechanic wise and I'm not dropping $1000 like meineke wants.How easy is it to follow the Haynes repair manuals or any other repair manuals? I have a 1996 dodge avenger and I need to replace my water pump. I know it's a time consuming task, but is it especially hard to replace it?: If you don't have any experience working on cars aside from changing oil my suggestion is to take it in and get it done. You need to drain the coolant, loosen the belt, and then try and torque off those bolts that are prolly sticky on the water pump. And if the water has eaten through the gasket you may need to get the engine block redone where the water pump rests. Oh but don't go to Meineke yuck, you might as well pull your pants down at your own house and sit on a plunger handle; at least it is free and will probably be less painful.

Q:House has bad mains pressure, so previous owner installed a quot;Holding Tankwhich stores water from the mains, before pumping it into the house for the internal tanks.However, after some recent plumbing work when the mains was turned off, it's running a little weird. The pump seems to be constantly running, although at a very low level, and some times when the taps/fawcets are opened, they seems to be nothing for up to 30 seconds (only air), and then the water rushes out. Same thing for toilet/WC cisterns..Any advice/pointers appreciated.CheersJM: If you are using a standard well pump, then there should be a check valve in the pipe between the holding tank and the pump. In a well it will be a foot valve, but may also have been a simple check valve. The work on your mains may have introduced dirt into the valve and prevents if from sealing and maintaining the pressure in the system when the pump stops. Someone also suggested that the pressure tank (not the holding tank) associated with the pump has become water logged. If that is the case then a small volume of water coming out of the pressure tank will cause a large enough pressure change to keep the pump working. Last possibility, there has to be a sensor that determines that the level of the water in the holding tank is low and will turn on the mains supply and when the level gets high enough that the mains supply is turned off. This can be a pressure switch or a mercury switch similar to one with a sump pump, etc. So my suggestions are: Check to make sure that the holding tank is clean and there is no sediment in it. Check to make sure that the holding tank fills when the water level drops, (it appears to stop when it is full). If you do this next procedure, make sure that you know how to prime your pump. I would also turn off the hot water tank. If it is a foot valve, remove the foot valve by removing the clamp and then back wash it to clean out the dirt. If it is an in-line check valve then remove the pipe. between the pump and the holding tank and invert it, and run water through it to clean out any sediment, then replace the pipe. Drain the pressure tank, and if you can pump some air into it. Then make sure that everything is connected, prime the pump and turn it on. Make sure that everything is working, then at each tap, especially the hot water taps, turn them on and leave running until the water flows smoothly. When all of the air is out of the system then turn on the hot water tank.

Q:My 2000 Pontiac Sunfire has been overheating and I recently changed the thermostat thinking that was the problem. The new thermostat didn't help and the engine is still over heating. I am starting to think it might be the water pump. How can I tell for sure? When I changed the thermostat and refilled the coolant tank I left the cap off and started the car to work out the air. I was told I should see bubbles in the tank but nothing happened, I thought this might be a sign of a bad water pump. I think I will be able to change the water pump on my own I just want to know for sure if that is the problem.: It could ALSO be crud build up in the radiator interior or road junk in the radiator fins. A bad water pump USUALLY leaks and/or squeals

Q:Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ what is different, why not the same?: 60Hz pump and 50Hz pump itself is not much difference, just that the motor speed, the rated speed is 3600 rpm, 1200 rpm, 1800 rpm, the latter is generally 3000, 1500, 1000 etc.. If it is to use the same pump, the difference is that the 60Hz motor pump flow is 50Hz, motor water pump flow of 1.2 times, the lift is 1.2*1.2=1.44 times, power is 1.2*1.2*1.2=1.728 times. So in the actual manufacture, especially some relatively large flow lift pumps, pump motor using 60Hz to use 50Hz thicker than the spindle motor of the pump impeller, the difference between the two, in addition to empty size shaft is different, what basically no difference. As for the data of package angle, the water conservancy models of different factories are different, but I don't know whether there is any difference between them. Most of them make no difference. However, if you want to use the 60Hz pump to achieve the same flow rate as the 50Hz pump, the impeller of the former should be cut to 0.833 times the size of the latter.

Q:Variable flow variable frequency water pump how to adjust the flow?: Flow plus transmitter control

Q:Assuming that my water pump standard flow is 20m3/h, tolerance value requirements is + 8%, then is not traffic 22m3/h is not qualified?: Tolerance coefficient is due in the manufacturing process, will, so each pump products are possible shapes and sizes do not conform to the pattern of the situation, and ensure the test results in the value (operating point) when compared, should be allowed to have a certain tolerance. It should be noted that these tolerances are only relevant to the actual pump and do not involve test conditions and measurement uncertainties.If the pump at a certain working point (the same lift) standard (Design) flow of 20m3/h, the actual flow of 22m3/h, indicating that the pump in the design process has unreasonable place, resulting in waste of power. Deviations from the manufacturing process usually have no positive deviation.

Q:mechanic says the bearings are going on the pump, and they might as well replace the thermostat while they are there.my question is he right?do they have to remove the engine to replace either the pump or the thermostat?seems like a lot of $ for a what should be a simple job ($450).thanks for your help!: ok well the water pump is a pretty easy fix if you pop the hood and look to the left side of the engine you will see your serpintine belt the water pump is the pully on top closest to the front of the car and that is prob like an hour to an hour and a half repair. now your thermostat is on the opposite side of the engine buried under your throttle body and is labor intensive possibly up to 3 hrs so if i was you, and i had a relitivly new grand am and the bearings were gone in the water pump i would leave the thermostat alone and fix the pump, why fix whats not broke especially if its gonna cost alot. chances are you dont need a thermostat. at NAPA it will cost like 25-35 dollars for the water pump. dont bother with the thermostat.

Q:i have a 1993 chevy cavalier z24 3.1 what all do i need to do to get the water pump off and replace it: I believe if you are looking at the motor the water pump will be to your left on top of the motor and to the front. Drain the radiator. There is a big smooth pulley that turns the water pump loosen the 4 10mm bolts, remove the belt the remove the bolts. Under the pulley there will be 5 or 6 8mm bolts remove those, make sure a drain pan is under the pump because there will be some residual coolant in the motor. Scrape the old gasket off of the engine block then reverse the procedures to install the new pump. Make sure you torque the pump to the proper specs so that the pump housing does not distort. You can pick up a Chiltons manual for that car a local parts store that can walk you through this in greater detail with pictures. Good Luck

Q:Hey I need to pump water from a river and use be able to use it through a hose and also make the hose have pressure. I was thinking pump the water into a barrel and into a hose or something from there? Anyone know anything about if this would work? What would I need? thanks: buy a submersible water pump. they are the best and longest runing with high pressure. also they are portable and u can take out any time. they are applicable in sea , rivers, very deep pumping etc. but remember to wrap it with a light and silky cloth to prevent the sand going in to it before use in sea and rivers. u dont need a barrel or tank. As they re not heating,they can work continuously even for a years.u can operate from a distance, much pressure than any centrigugal pump. hope it heps. good luck.........

Q:I am trying to replace my old water pump with a new one. I have the quot;special tooland everything but i just cant get the water pump to come loose at all. Any suggestions would be helpful Thanks: When you mean it wont come loose, do you mean you cant break the bolts loose or is the pump stuck on the motor like glue? If the bolts are stuck, try spray them with penetrating oil and let it work in for about 30 mins. If the pump is stuck, use a narrow putty knif, gently tap in between the pump and the block, and pry it off, then clean the mating surface completely to ensure the new pump seals properly.

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