• TND series High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer System 1
TND series High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer

TND series High Accuracy Full-automatic AC Voltage Stabilizer

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Principle & Characteristics

It adopt linear integrated circuit to form the control system, drive the contact voltage regulator to regulate automatically by controlling the servo motor, it is provided with delay、over-voltage、under-voltage and over-current protection function which ensure the voltage stabilizer can supply safely; It has the advantage of high fficiency、same input and output voltage waveform, stable output voltage, work continuously and so on.


Scope of Application

It is available in the electric equipments and facilities in housing、factory、school、shop、office、precision instrument for scientific experiment. And also is suitable for office equipment、test instrument、communication system、industrial equipment、armarium、domestic electric appliance and so on.


Main Advantage

Excellent output voltage waveform、stable regulating process、no lost electricity phenomenon;
High accuracy of output voltage, generally it is fixed in 220±3% when leave the factory, wide input voltage range、strong load adaptability; with satisfiable load property. It has(under-voltage)、over-voltage and over-current protection function; It can cutoff the power supply automatically to ensure the safety of the consumer when the output voltage is over-high or the input is over-current; It adopted high breaking capacity mini circuit breaker with the over-current protection function when it is over load or short-circuit; It use high property carbon brush which prolong the service life of the voltage stabilizer.


Main Technical Parameter
Overall Size & Weight(For reference only)

Note:property of this product is similar with the svc type product.


Q:have issue with couple of thing on a ford galaxy 1999 2.3 ghia w/airconis there a relay box in it as checked all fuses for the issuse i have and i lost even with the propper manual, rear passenger door wont open or window wont work, air con not workin and the blower that you can switch on to let air at ya face for cold or hot not working. now i havew done loads to the car and so far ive done well but this is bugging - can anyone help. what things have i missed.
Jay the controls for the windows and door are likely a problem in the drivers side control switches as this works as the main switch for all doors. I have seem this often when someone installed door speakers and unhooked the wires from the way they were tied down. the window came down and pulled them damaging the the wires. The A/C system and heater are hard to call over the computer but I can tell you the fan portion is not connected directly to either. it is a rheostat. a dimmer of sorts. The actual fan motor is built with a power and ground connection and is like all other electric 2 wire motors, a positive and a negative. If the motor isn't frozen inside the motor will spin even if the two wires are switched around as this is only changing it's polarity. what will happen though is your fan will draw air out of the cabin instead of pushing air in. It uses a connection screwed into the air box to control the various speeds. the power enters this device and then used power reducing components internally to slow the motor down or speed it up. your switch on the dash for fan speed feeds this controller. If you are saying you are getting no air to your face but the fan is blowing, I think you will find its blowing on the dash board. maybe the feet as well. This is a factory installed default for a problem in the heater or A/C directing system. It was determined that the most critical thing a driver needs when driving is a clear windshield in the cold of winter. You must be able to see ahead and can bundle up with clothes to keep warm. If the system looses the vacuum needed to run the directional doors to send air to your face etc springs will close the doors and direct the air to the windshield over every other place.
Q:I assume it is a fuse problem, but would it not cancel out all of the tops?A fuse for each side no?I'm not great with electrical components so any help would be appreciated. I'm trying to avoid a hefty Electrician bill if it is a minor problem.Thanks in advance.
Those coils do go bad. Plus it could also be a problem with the transformers burning out for each coil. Call a repairman.
Q:can somebody please explain the parts marked in red on the following image
The item on the left is a fuse rated at 200mA. The 47k items are 47 k ohm (47000 ohm) resistors. I have no idea what the circuit does, but at the 4 pin connector on the right, provides voltages of, from the bottom pin up, 0, 2.5 volts, 2.5 volts, and 5 volts. .
Q:Hi I have a LG motion from Metro PCS. A fuse popped when I had my phone plugged into the charger. It seems to be loading slower, but still turns on. Is their a sure fire way to tell if their has been any electrical damage? thanks.
Fuses and circuit breakers are shielding instruments to steer away from hearth in case of a short circuit or overload. while they blow or holiday, they're doing their activity preserving you and your domicile. If whether, a fuse blows as quickly as you replace it, or a circuit breaker journeys as quickly as you reset it, you have a confusing short in that circuit. do no longer put in a greater amperage fuse, or shop attempting to reset the breaker. examine each and all of the a lot on that circuit. Unplug each thing from the shops and take a glance at changing the fuse or resetting the breaker lower back. If it nevertheless blows/journeys as we talk, examine your lighting fixtures. in case you have an previous fluorescent fixture, you have between the previous ballast transformers that has shorted. Get a qualified electrician to provider the sunshine for you. If whether, the fuse remains good and the breaker would not holiday, something you unplugged is inflicting the quick. examine each and each load via plugging them in, separately till you come across the single that blows the fuse or journeys the breaker. it is the wrongdoer. If whether, no longer something i've got pronounced works, you in all probability have a wiring project that must be repaired via a qualified electrician.
Q:i have checked several components and it doesn't start
Your no start condition could be any of a number of things. First, I will assume it is cranking but not starting. If you are seeing any kind of white smoke while it cranks, you are getting fuel to the cylinders. So air in the system or low fuel should not be the problem. If you are cranking and getting NO SMOKE and NO START, you probably are not getting fuel. Check your fuel filters for clogs or gel. Other things to check: 1.Check your battery connections for corrosion. Also check each battery's voltage. You should have two batteries. If even one of them is low or has a bad cell, it can cause a failure to start. This is because glow plugs (thos things that heat the cylinders so the fuel can burn) us ALOT of voltage. If they don't get the full voltage, she probably wont start. If the battteries are good, you may have a bad glow plug relay or bad glow plugs. Finally, if all this fails find a OBDII scanner and check for codes. Perhaps you'll find your answer there.
Q:I live in Klang Valley, Malaysia
service station, car accessory place, electrical component store
Q:I recently blew a 25a fuse in a mini fridge which was soldered in. I currently don't have a 25a fuse to replace it with so what would happen if I used a 30a fuse instead?
As a Technician I strongly recommend that you go back with a 25amp fuse. The 30 may cause overload problems in other components and either damage it or start a fire.
Q:i did something really stupid and connected my car battery the opposite way it should be (positive clamp to negative terminal and negative clamp to positive terminal; a few sparks flew). i tried to start the car but nothing happened when i realized what i did wrong i put the battery in the right way and the car started fine. i heard that when you connect the battery the wrong way it reverses polarity or something like that and that the battery cannot be used and that it messes up the alternator too.so that raises a couple question1) do i need a new alternator?2) even though the battery starts the car is it no good?3) will the battery end up exploding or malfunctioning because of the reversed polarity?
the polarity CAN switch and cause problems, but if your car started and runs fine and is charging you probably got by with it. the battery itself should have no lasting problems, there is the possibility that you hurt some electronic components, but this would most likely show up right awayyou probably got lucky.
Q:Hi, I have a 1996 Cadillac Eldorado ETC with 180K miles. It has been running fine except for starting, it used to take a few cranks at times but other than that it was fine. My fuel pump seemed to have had failed and I replaced it with another but I still don't get any fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I have replaced the fuel filter, and a fuel pump relay located in the engine bay driver side fuse box. I have also installed an inline fuel pump and that get gas to the rails but it lack the high pressure required for EFI. My original fuel pump works now that I have tested it, so that was not the problem, it seems it might be an electrical issue since there seems to be no power getting to the in-tank fuel pump. My question.- Is there any other electrical components I need to look for and replace that control the power sent to the fuel pump? I cant afford to take it to any shop, or put it on a diagnostics system, I have to be able to bypass or rigg or fix myselfwhat do you think?
run a jumper wire to ur relay from a remote hot wire in ur fuse panel, but first check ur crank or cam sensor. that can cause the starting issue
Q:Ants got into my fuse box at my pool and now most of the electric equipment does not work. I tested the connections to the individual components and they seem to have power. My question is: is there a way to test a circuit board to see if its fried or not with a volt meter?
It would be hard to do, I feel. But, you can do a visual inspection of the components. If a capacitor or transistor etc. look burned you can test it with the meter set to Ohms but, you may have to unsolder to test. Be sure the power is off.

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