JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller

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Applications

JKL607 series reactive automatic power compensation controller is designed according to the latest National standards of JB/T9663-1999,which is to be used together with low voltage electrostatic capacitance screen of various specifications,to provide real-time supervision on the power factor and reactive current of the power network,and give automatic throw-cut capacitor compensation to the power network.
JKL607A/607B/607C adopts the high quality single chip computer of US Amy Company,wich provides power cut-off memory function.It also has other obvious features such as digitally display the power factor and voltage of power network,strong function,precise compensation,easy debug and so on.
JKL607FA/JKL607FS adopts COMS digital integrated circuit and also use pointer meter to display the COSφ value.With manual operation function,you can use the manual operation button on the machine to switch on/off the compensation capacitor,while keeping the outpout state unchanged.
JKLD607C adopts dynamic reactive power compensation controller designed by intel 16 digit single chip comuter,which outputs DC9-12V signal,controls dynamic reactive power compensation control switch(Type:JKLD607KC)or controls bi-dimensional thyristor of zero passage trigger and plate trigger to quickly switch the capacitor.(Zero passage disturbance free switch)

Structure Characteristics

1. No throw-cut vibration,precise control within the range of full loads.
2. The lock function in super low load.
3. Over voltage protection function.
4. Use the circular operation mode of the earlier throw off,the earlie cut off.
5. It has preset functions of voltage,time delay and power factor,and the preset parameters maintain even then the power is cut off .

Code and Its Meanings

Operation Conditions

1. Altitude:≤2000m
2. Ambient temperature:-15℃+～50℃.
3. Relative humidity:≤90% at 20℃,≤50% at 40℃,
4. Ambient environment:no flammable,explosive,electric conducting dust,or corrosive gas.

Main Technical Parameters

1. Rated Voltage:jkl607A/B/C 380V JKL607FA/FS 220V
2. Sample Airflow:≤5A
3. Throw-in threshold:0.85-0.98
4. Over voltage protection:400-440V
5. Time delay:1-90s
6. Controlled Circuits:4,6,8,10,12
7. Dielectric strength:industrial frequency 3000V

Installation Size

The installation of JKL607 series adopts inserted case,with installation hole on the side.Put the hook of the fastening accessory into the hole,tighten the screw of the accessory and the controller is fixed on the scree.
JKL607A overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKL607B overall size:147×110×127mm Holing size:140×102mm(width×height)
JKL607C overall size:120×120×80mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FA overall size:120×110×127mm Holing size:162×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FS overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKLD607C overall size:120×120×127mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)

Q:Car blows fuse constantly that allows u to get it out of park.Changed fuse from 15amp to 20.lasted almost 2 weeks and now blowing the fuse againBrakes still work when this happens and they light up.Turn signals do not work when this happens: Some where in the circuit for the D range in you car is a short to ground weather it be right after the shifter all the way down to one of the solenoids in the transmission shift assembly? If you can find the short it'll fix right away? Have it scanned for trouble codes this might help find it? But major don't increase the fuse size this is extremely bad it will cause the wire the harness or the component it's attached to to receive vary high current this will cause the for mentioned things to burn and fail this could cause a 50-60$ repair to be at worst a 2-3000$ dollar reapir

Q:2000 malibu power windows will not work at all. replaced the circuit breaker and still does not work: you may need a new regulator (the motor may be bad this comes with new regulator) have some one with knowledge of automotive electrical systems confirm

Q:I have a 1982 Prelude, and everytime I try to connect my battery, the 55 amp main fuse (located in the engine wall by the negative battery cable) blows. Any ideas? Did I get a battery that is too big for the car?: First is to make sure you have the cable hook up the right direction. Second you may have a short out of your main fuse box. If you capable disconnect all wire to your alternator, tape them off and reconnect you battery if the fuse not blow then replace the alternator, if it still blow then get help from a local mechanic.

Q:any little help would be great!A beam of light with red and blue components of wavelengths 670nm, respectively, strikes a slab fused quartz at an incident angle of 30 degree. On refraction, the different components are separated by an angle of 0.001 31 rad. If the index of refraction of the blue light?: OK, this question doesn't make sense, for two reasons: 1.) Colors, by definition, are at different wavelengths. If the beam has 2 color components, each component would have it's own wavelength. 2.) Your question at the end isn't a proper sentence, and is leaving a necessary part out.

Q:And my truck still want start without jumping that wire: Always double check fuses. A poor connections could be the problem but I would be suspicious of the wiring. If the wires run under the truck, make sure they aren't damaged from debris or rubbing on other components. Try jumping at the relay +. If it runs while jumped at relay +, then you know its a problem before the relay (ign switch wiring, fuses, etc)

Q:Alright so my setup is a sony xm-zr1852 1000w amp and 2 12 Dual 1100w subs. One day i was driving along and started to smell a burning scent then looked back and my trunk was smoking, shortly after that the subs stopped bumping. I pull over open the trunk and there is smoke coming off the subs. I check the two 30amp fuses in my amp and they are both melted. I replaced the fuses and now the amp is in protect mode and still no bump.What's the problem?: The amp probably has a burnt component inside. I doubt that amp is meant to handle more than 60 amps, and from the looks of it, it was pulling that much for a while. You probably were clipping the signal way too much. Your subs are definetely blown.

Q:I'm currently in the market to purchase my first washer and dryer set for my family of 4. We are looking to spend no more than $1,500 on a complete set. What are your recommendations? Obviously we are looking for longevity in the set. We do between 4-6 loads per week. Thanks for your help!: If you want longevity and value get a traditional style of washer and dryer rather than the so-called high efficiency models. Most HE washers are not made with water-safe metals; they turn into electrodes in water that slowly fuses components together, turning an appliance that used to be a 10-15 year investment into a 4-5 year expense. LG and Samsung in particular are notorious for this. High-end brands like Miele and SpeedQueen are great, but they also cost a small fortune. The top-loaders that don't have a traditional agitator are notorious for tearing clothes and leaving large mechanical grease stains/burns from how they agitate and spin clothing. For the best bang for your buck, get a traditional top-loading washer with an agitator tower in the middle and a traditional matching dryer. As tempting as it can be to buy those swanky gloss-black or red numbers at the hardware store, even the most expensive models will not last longer than a decade. Besides, ***no one will see them but you!*** I have a Whirlpool set at home, and they work great. My parents have Kenmore, and it's the same deal. Both sets are a decade old and still trucking along.

Q:1991 Honda Civic Si Hatchback. The fuse is hot with car off. It gets an immediate ground short when I turn it on. Wiring schematic says this wire goes directly to ECU. So if it were shorted against body somewhere, it would blow fuse key on of off.Tomorrow I will trace wire directly to ECU and clip it off. If it is ungrounded until I turn on key and then goes to ground when I turn on key, is that sufficient proof that my ECU has an internal short and is junk to be replaced.I hate replacing parts then finding that was not the problem.: Check main relay. It may be faulty. Below Driver's Dash.

Q:I have a 2002 Honda Civic that has a 12-Volt power outlet to plug in things such as my radar detector. I've used the same radar detector in my Civic for years without any problems. Recently, after using my radar detector, my fuse would burn out after using the outlet with the detector plugged in. It happens every time. I've already changed the fuse three times! And it's the correct amps too! Does anyone have any idea what's going on? Does my car have a more serious electrical problem I should know about? Any suggestions would be great.: Sounds to me like your radar detector, which you stated that you have used for years, has finally met it's maker, kicked-the-bucket, met it's timely demise, etc. Some component in it has shorted out or something, it now is attempting to draw too much current, and your electrical system is doing exactly what it is should, blowing it's fuse before burning itself out (and/or the radar detector, the whole car, etc.). I would say that it is time to start shopping for a new radar detector.

Q:I tried to install a new car stereo today. Like the idiot i am, I ignored everything I read about disconnecting the battery negative before I started. I assumed that removing the fuses for the radio would be fine. Anyway. I got the radio, and it was working fine for about 5 minutes. Then one of my dome lights flickered, and the radio started turning off and on again. I decided to try turning on the engine at this point to see if it just wasnt getting enough power. By the time i had gotten to the drivers side, everything was dead. The car wouldnt start, the lights dont come on. Everything is just dead. It got dark on me, so I've yet to remove the stereo, or check the inside fuse box. I'm hoping that its just a fuse, but with everything being out, and the main fuse in the motor-area fuse box intact, im losing hope that thats all thats wrong. I was thinking fusable link, or a solenoid. How did I manage to mess it up that bad? And how do I fix it? Thanks: It's impossible to tell what else might be connected to the same fuse without knowing the make an model. It's unusual for a radio to pull enough juice to damage any sensitive electrical components. Did you use factory connectors, or did you just guess and check splicing things together? Get a test light (alligator clip onto a ground and a probe that lights up the handle when you touch a hot wire). Poke every fuse on both sides inside the fuse box. Be careful. Don't panic, rarely are manufacturers dumb enough to connect truely important or fragile sensors to the same circuit (fuse) as the radio, knowing that many repairs and replacements will be done incorrectly. Whatever has been done can be undone, it's just at matter of whether you can undo it or someone more knowledgeable. Good luck.

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