Q:I am going to run one wire off my battery terminal to an auxillary fuse block under my dash. The fuse block has 8 places for 30amp max fuses and the block is rated for 120amp total. The wire I will be running is about 8'-10' long. What is the formula used to figure what gauge wire I need?

There really isnt a formula for such a short run. You need to determine how much current your device will utilize (radio maybe 10 amps, or a light maybe 5, etc) Once you determine how much current your device will draw, you then determine the proper gauge wire.

Q:For professional mechanics. I have a 93 buik regal with a 3800. It has no ignition fire. It began with intermittent stalling but would start back up. Then it wouldn't start at all. The control module and coils have proven to be good (tested on another vehicle). It has new cam and crank sensor. Harmonic balancer has no damage to the interrupter rings. PCM is good (tested on another vehicle), Cam is turning and cam magnet is present. Performed a thorough continuity check on all wiring in the circuit from every single point, checks good. Still no fire. What did I miss? Remember, all components in the circuit is good and I'm positive the timing chain is not broken.

Well, you show that your fingerprints are all over the components, BUT- how about diagnostics? Have you done pin-out tests at the PCM? G.M. has a known failure rate in the harnesses. Have you tested for voltage? Have you checked the vRef for the components? When you turn the key on, does the MIL illuminate? If not, check the fuses and Vpwr for the PCM. If the MIL does illuminate, have you checked for Diagnostic Codes? If you need, e-mail me, and I will see if I can help out!

Q:I have 5mm LEDs that Im using to make automotive tail lights with and I need to know what I use for surge protection.

No surge protection is required, and as for fusing, use a normal-blow fuse rated about 20% higher than the current normally drawn by the lights.

Q:I turned the key once for the electrical components and it worked for a split second then it went dead. Then I tried to jump start it and nothing happened, no clicking or anything. just dead. Then, when I unhooked the jumper cables, there were sparks from the jumper cables which would indicate that the battery isn't dead.

If the jumper cables were still hooked up to the other vehicle, then that is why you got sparks between the two cables. How long did you leave the cables hooked up to your vehicle while the other one was still running? Hook the cables up to a good battery and then to the bad battery. Let it charge for a few minutes and go back and give it another try. If you still don't get anything, then you may have a cable loose somewhere, like between your battery and starter. Could be a solenoid or a relay also.

Q:a. pinocytosisb. exocytosisc. phagocytosisd. receptor-mediated endocytosis

Exocytosis is the durable process by which a cell directs the contents of secretory vesicles out of the cell membrane. These membrane-bound vesicles contain soluble proteins to be secreted to the extracellular environment, as well as membrane proteins and lipids that are sent to become components of the cell membrane.

Q:During the battle of Gettysburg, the gunfire was so intense that several bullets collided in mid-air and fused together. Assume a 5g union musket ball was moving right at a speed of 250m/s, 20 degrees above the horizontal. A 3g confederate ball was moving to the left at a speed of 280m/s, 15 degrees above the horizontal. Immediately after they fuse together.1.what is their velocity??2.what is their kinetic energy??3.was this elastic or inelastic, why?

Answer part 1 using conservation of momentum Use the answer from part 1 to compute the kinetic energy of the fused bullets It was inelastic since the bullets stuck together 1) Since momentum is a vector quantity, we need to look at the horizontal and vertical components separately and then look at the resultant to find the outcome: Vertical: 1.25*sin(20)+.84*sin(15).008Vv 80.6m/s horizontal 1.25*cos(20)-.84*cos(15).008Vh 45.4m/s The resultant velocity is sqrt(80.6^2+45.4^2) 92.5m/s 2) The kinetic energy is 1/2*m*v^2 .5*.008*92.5*92.5 34.225 3) the kinetic energy before collision was .5*(.005*250*250+.003*280*280) 274 The loss in kinetic energy is typical in an inelastic collision j

Q:I turned on my car to go to work and I noticed my windshield wiper fluid kept spraying. I got to a stop sign and turned off my car for a few seconds and when I started it up again the problem continued. I got to work and thought I would try it again, same result. Same happened after work and this morning. I see how to fix the problem, hopefully, but how do I fix it? I thought I got the fuse, I think it's called (not really a car person), and I tried getting it off but only a plastic part did. Any help?

I think you have a fault at wiper fluid pump or a short-circuit. The fuse is for all components( Wipers + pump +)

Q:I have checked every single fuse under the hood and under the steering wheel. Still no radio, clock, or dome lights.

Double check the fuses tor the dome light and cigar lighter, its easy to miss a bad fuse If you have a test light or DVOM (multi meter) use it to check both sides of the fuse for power, obviously an open in the fuse is going to cause one side of it to have power and not the other. You will need these tool to verify the fuse is getting power, check the condition of the fuse, and trace the power to the individual components on that circuit. For backyard mechanics, Harbor Freight has these tool for the $5-10 range that work great for occasional use. Good luck man! If you need any further help with open / short diagnosis just let me know.

Q:I have a 96 Camry and it died on me Friday sputtered out when I started it the rmp's shot up then went down then I put it in drive and then died I put new battery on, new starter, alternator is good and new ignition switch and when I turn the key all that comes on is the lights and radio and when I turn the key it doesnt sound like its trying to start just nothing no click click click

Ensure that your starter is getting power if it is not check that you installed it correctly. most common ones come with three wires a ground, power and ignition. If it is not getting power when you turn the ignition then check the starter fuse. Another way is to check the starter directly, you can use a screwdriver or wire to connect the power and ignition wires to spin the starter be careful not to make contact with the ground. If it spins then you have another problem, however if it does not spin then you problem is the starter itself, an electrical connection, fuse, or electrical component related to the starter. Note that even something as simple as a gear selector for an automatic or the clutch pedal for a manual can cause this problem. for automatics they will only start in P or N. for manual the clutch must be fully pressed. My guess is you are having starter related issues because any other mechanical problem would at least let your starter spin even it the engine does not start. Do you have any more useful information?

Q:i understand you need the battery to get a car started and the spark plugs, but what else is used in a car to get it to start? i ask cause when i try to turn it on sometimes it wont start right away, the battery is fine my sparks are good, but the car still has a hard time starting up.

It sounds like your starter is weak. It could also be that you have a weak battery that isn't putting out the right amount of power. A load test need to be done to know if that's the case.